Great product for replicating Vinyl tops!!!

[southpier]

.... I just did 4 cars....with the model car garage vinyl top kit. ....

I checked the "firebirds diorama" pictures and they indeed look good. this gave me the impetus needed to give the MCG stuff a try; thanks.

[Tommy124]

I used the spray glue method as shown in the initial post and it worked a charm on my '68 Firebird resto. Thanks @Marcos Cruz for showing!

 

[TarheelRick]

This spray adhesive may make a convincing vinyl top, but it also works well for flocking interiors.  All you have to do is mask off the area you want to flock, spray with a light coat of adhesive, then sprinkle the flock.  Once you get a good thick layer in place gently go over it with your fingertip pressing it into place.  Let it set for a few minutes then dump off the excess flocking.  I've found this works better than diluted Elmer's, because it gives a more even undercoat and holds better.

[misterNNL]

Rick, did you color coat the interior you were flocking in a color close to the color of flocking material you were using? I would think there might be thin spots that would show through otherwise.

[crazyjim]

Don't do many vinyl tops.  Have been using the spray adhesive for years.

[Richard Bartrop]

If you have an airbrush, try spraying with thicker paint.  Straight from the jar usually does it for me.  Use low pressure and crank the paint open all the way.  Hold the airbrush back far enough so that the paint is almost dry by the time it hits the model.  More air and less paint will give finer droplets, so with a little fddling with the settings with give you the size of grain you want.

[TarheelRick]

12 hours ago, misterNNL said:

Rick, did you color coat the interior you were flocking in a color close to the color of flocking material you were using? I would think there might be thin spots that would show through otherwise.

Yes, I will paint the areas first, but I have never experienced any thin spots.

[Tommy124]

10 hours ago, Richard Bartrop said:

If you have an airbrush, try spraying with thicker paint.  Straight from the jar usually does it for me.  Use low pressure and crank the paint open all the way.  Hold the airbrush back far enough so that the paint is almost dry by the time it hits the model.  More air and less paint will give finer droplets, so with a little fddling with the settings with give you the size of grain you want.

I would say that this is the most traditional or conventional way of self-making the vinyl structure. It sure works fine for a lot of people. But you spray the paint at a very late stage when the body is already (more or less) finished. So you'll either have to live with the result or possibly correct it on the almost-finished body. IMHO the upside of the "glue method" is that at an early stage you can see and define the way the structure will actually be. If you find the structure to be too "coarse", you stand still sand it down before any body color has yet been applied. And in the end all you'll have to do is properly mask the body and paint the top matt black. 

[misterNNL]

Having always been a rattle can man I have found and continue to use a Rustoleum product for replicating vinyl covered surfaces. I use their # 239119 Multicolor Textured product that comes in a 12 oz can. This produces a uniform low profile texture that gives the look I need. I top coat it with flat black then buff lightly for a  satin finish.

[NOBLNG]

2 hours ago, misterNNL said:

Having always been a rattle can man I have found and continue to use a Rustoleum product for replicating vinyl covered surfaces. I use their # 239119 Multicolor Textured product that comes in a 12 oz can. This produces a uniform low profile texture that gives the look I need. I top coat it with flat black then buff lightly for a  satin finish.

Any pictures?

[misterNNL]

I do not have the skills to post to the forums but will gladly email them to you if you will PM me your email address. The two vehicles I used this technique on are a scratch built 1937 Curtis-Wright fifth wheel travel trailer and it's tow unit,a '37 International D300 COE truck.