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Revell 67 Corvette Coupe 427


CrazyGirl

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Anne ,

Let it sit for a couple of days just to be safe . As for masking , I'd use bare metal foil instead of masking tape . Easier to conform to the dash's curves and less adhesive which lessens the chance of the paint pulling away . Just burnish it down tight and trim it off .

I'd use the improved Bare Metal foil , not the ultra bright !

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to answer the question on the dehydrators:

the typical time it takes to dry for an enamel paint job if done from spray can is about 7 days max. if you get a dehydrator, and you can get one cheap from wally world, you can cut that curing time down to a couple hours. just make sure to leave the model in the dehydrator after you turn it off for about 5-10 minutes so it cools off.

I got an Oster dehydrator and it has about 7 or 8 different platforms. i cut the webbing out of all but one of the platforms. i kept the outer part of the rings in tact, and the reason for that was so i can fit models and stuff in the dehydrator without it getting bumped by the lid. you also want to keep the parts on the top level so the plastic doesn't warp.

Another good tip i have learned with the dehydrator is this: i have had models where there's wide white wall decals that go on the tires, and also other decals that refuse to conform to the part it's supposed to adhere to. Using some of the clear/red bottle of the decal setting solution, get the decal where you want it, and use a Q-tip to take away some of the solution that takes up a lot of the excess liquid. put the part in the dehydrator for about 10 to 20 minutes, and take it out. the decals will conform to the parts reeeeeeeally nice! the wide whites on the 50 olds look like they're painted on!!

So to me, a dehydrator is an absolute necessity. i'll get pics of what i did to my dehydrator and add it to this thread some time tonight if you'd like.

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ok this took 3 hours to do , and if this does not pass the test then I will be having a major sale of models and junk , I used a piece of material from a coin purse and shaved it down to .010 thickness and used super glue , I think it looks good , but it depends on what you all think,,, now the real pain will be the other half 001_zpsbaa00c13.jpg

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Guest G Holding

Just remember....in building always have a fudge factor...in case of........

You can always tint the side and rear glass if you really don't like it that well, and it is hard to see inside , unless someone else picks it up.. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

A trick I learned years ago in photography...the camera never lies, but a good photographer can....... :D

What the camera DOESN'T SEE...... B) B)

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Anne-

I think the dash looks fantastic. Remember, we are usually our own worst critics. If you aren't very happy with it you can set it aside for now and work on a different part of the kit. This way it gives you a bit of time to think about other ways to redo it, hide it, or whatever. Either way, your doing a great job. Just don't do like most of us morons and put it back in the box, put it back on the shelf and forget about it until you begin drawing SS. You'll never get any completed that way. Trust me.

It's coming along great.

Later-

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I think it looks great. I think once you get the guage bezels in there and everything you will see it come together. think of it this way, Its one part. if you build every part like its the only part that will be seen then you will have a great model. keep going with this dash. if you decide you hate it, send it to me! I will use it lol B)

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I think the second dash looks awesome! The gauge holes cut out so nicely too.

Don't beat yourself up to much. This is a hobby, it's meant to be fun.

I spent to much time stressing over a build that I couldn't get the steering to work or the car to roll.

My solution was that I glued the tires on solid one day and called it perfect. Then I quit building for 5 years just so it would be fun again.

Enjoy the Hobby!

Here's a photo of the perfect build that won't roll of the table.

P1050084_zpsa2f019bb.jpg

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