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1968 Hemi Dart - UPDATE 6/29/2015 Last WIP


Exotics_Builder

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First off, this is NOT a competition with the 68 Hemi Dart that Quick GMC has posted. I even hesitated on doing this posting. The GTR Auto Modelers theme for 2015 is 100 years of Dodge, hence any Dodge. I am not exactly a MOPAR aficionado, and only had two Dodge products in my stash of over 800 unbuilt models. I chose the Hemi Dart to do to support the theme.

I did some research on the Dart (something I do on every model I build) and came up with a project. I elected to build the race car as delivered in the kit, using the supplied decals. As we are also trying to get our ready to sell our house, I’ve scaled back the detail level.

I assembled some aftermarket parts for the build. They are the Detail Master hood pin set, Replicas and Miniatures Dodge Dart grill shell, the Model Car Garage Dodge Dart detail set and the Competition Resins seat set.

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I started with the body and scribed the door and trunk panel lines as well as the windshield valence grill (a lot of times primer and a couple of coats of paint almost bury this detail). I ground off the molded GTS emblems on the side and trunk as well as the front side marker lights. The Hemi Darts have fiberglass front fenders which did not have marker lights.

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In the engine bay I added blocking on the firewall and drilled out for the hood pins that will be applied later.

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For the interior, I used my Dremel to level the radio and heater controls and used Evergreen Plastic strips to cover them as they were not included in the race car. The side panels also have door handles and rear armrest that needed to be removed. I drilled out the front handle area as the hole is in the door panel even though seat belt straps are used to raise and lower the special windows for the car (I will be adding those later). I used Photo-etch shapes to add the cover buttons on the rear side panels and left the dimple as it appears to be in the actual car.

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For the engine, the Hemi in my kit has the uneven height cross ram. I cut that down and brought it level with the other side.

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This model needs to be completed by our August NNL. Given where we’re at, there is a good chance we’ll still be around for that. If not, it is an interesting build and out of my comfort zone (like the VM Samba Woody I did). Updates to follow.

Edited by Exotics_Builder
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Looks good, this is a great subject. You may want to consider removing the heater blower moter from the firewall, I believe these cars came heater delete with the "for racing use only plate on the dash. I don't remember how they covered the hole from removing the blower motor though.

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Looks good, this is a great subject. You may want to consider removing the heater blower moter from the firewall, I believe these cars came heater delete with the "for racing use only plate on the dash. I don't remember how they covered the hole from removing the blower motor though.

Yep. Missed it. Needs a quick trim. Also was told about the driver side mirror cover plate since it was a delete as well. Plus, there is a panel line that goes down from the front door that is omitted.

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Getting around to readying the body to paint, I have cleaned it up and applied primer (Tamiya Fine Light Gray). In the side view, you can see where I have shaved of the GTS emblem and front side marker light (not mentioned in the instructions). I have also scribed a panel line below the front door to indicate where the fender panel ends. This should be there on all Darts but is omitted on the model.

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The rear window trim is a bit thin and would be difficult to foil after primer and color coats. To help, I added Evergreen strip over it and shaped it.

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For the engine bay, I removed the heater motor and covered it with a Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland round shape. I also again pointed out the spots for the hood pins. There really should be brackets at the rear as the hood pins would be on the top of the firewall. However, the kit provided hood has the hood pin plate spots too far forward. I just elected to add brackets rather than finagle the hood.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Color coat applied. Since this is a race car, I elected to do a non-factory color. My constraint was to use a color that would complement the kit decals.

The choice is Testor Inca Gold over Tamiya Gold. Inca Gold is a metallic with pronounced flakes and I used the Tamiya Gold base to help mute it. I then sprayed a coat of Testor Wet Clear over it.

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I also filled in the hood pin recesses on the hood after siting the Detail Master hood pins and drilling out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Chassis is overspray with the Testor Inca Gold, but there are primer spots showing through.

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As I was test fitting the rear suspension, I discovered that Revell has different locations for the 440 GTS links versus the 426. The 426 leaf shackles rest on the chassis ribs. As a result, I had to fill in the chassis holes (not prototypical for the shackles) and then painted them. A little rough, but didn’t want to respray.

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Believe it or not, the slicks in my kit did have M&H Racemaster on the tires but very shallow. Looking at trying to paint them out, I decided it would not look good and no tire decals in kit and my aftermarket stuff as too large. So I cut out the locating ribs for the wheel, reversed the tire and applied Slixx M&H tire decals. I then coated with Testor Dullcote after applying the kit supplied white markers. I think this will work much better.

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The decals are applied to the painted body, Testor One Shot Inca Gold over Tamiya Gold. The sponsor decals go over the color decals (which are not a 100% fit with the wheel openings, but close enough). I added a couple of extra sponsor decals from Revell’s 68 Firebird as I built it stock and put the racing pieces in the decal spares. I also applied Bare Metal Foil on the trim areas that would be on the racer. Note, per Mopar experts in my club (and backed by photos I found), the side drip rails were body color and most of the cars did not come with bright trim on the door top.

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I will be applying more clear coat and paint the interior roof flat black.

Work is progressing on the interior and I will have photos in the next update. Same with engine detailing. One thing I discovered was that the coil for the Hemi Darts was Petty Blue not black as in the instructions and several restorations/tribute cars.

As part of the interior, I got the Competition Resin seat with bracket set and cleaned them up prior to painting. Even though they will be hard to see, I did drill out the brackets for more realism. Of note, the cars only came with Driver Side lap belts, no lap belt for the passenger seat. Interesting safety regs for those days?

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Next update in about a week.

Edited by Exotics_Builder
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Of note, the cars only came with Driver Side lap belts, no lap belt for the passenger seat. Interesting safety regs for those days?

Since these cars were sold as (to paraphrase) : "For Use In Supervised Acceleration Trials [...] and Do Not Meet Passenger Vehicle Safety Standards [for the 1968 model year] and are Not Intended for Passenger Use [...] Off-Highway Use Only ."

These were crudely-built cars from the 'factory' ( built online at Dodge Main , and shipped to Hurst-Campbell for modifications ) . They were picked-up from Hurst (with maybe one or two dealer-ordered-for-stock examples) by the purchasers ; these were rough-finished with grey primer and black gelcoat fibreglass fenders and hood .

The transformer ( colloq. , "ignition coil" ) was an aftermarket piece (Prestolite ?) . The distributor was a Prestolite Tach-Drive with dual breaker points and a transistorised ignition .

Nice 'LO23M8' you've got there ! Keep up the nice work !

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this is a great looking model. super clean with nice paint.

i see very few people correct the "ss/bn" class designation to read ss/b or ss/ba. why is that?

Lack of knowledge? In my case, those that are most familiar with this did not indicate it was a problem.

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Lack of knowledge? In my case, those that are most familiar with this did not indicate it was a problem.

Well now you know.:) I dont think it takes away from your model.

Along with your building skills, your posting skills are great too. The little Arrows and things like that rock.

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