Stray Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 So I bought myself some Alclad chrome and some gloss black also. From what I have read it is recomended that a primer is used, as the lacquer can eat the styrene. I prime almost everything in any case, but I have also read that the smoother the surface the better the finale chrome look will be. It is recomended that the prime coat is sanded with 1200 paper at least. My question is just how critical is it to get the smoothest possible primed surface? I have airbrushed the primer so it atomises better than coming from a spray can, and the coat is thinner. But upon giving as light a sand as I can it is rubbing through on some of the edges of the bumpers and rocker covers, airfilter etc. Anyone have a surefire way of not burning though with the paper? Or how do you guys get a smooth as chrome finish? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Whalen Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Hi, The plastic needs to be really smooth before spraying on the primer (which I usually smooth with a 4000 polishing cloth used wet). I often don't use primer and just spray the Alclad gloss black base straight onto the plastic (if you're not sure test some on the sprue that comes with the pieces you are using). Make sure the black is nice and glossy and spray the chrome on about an hour after you have sprayed the gloss black base. The really important part is to spray the chrome on at a very low pressure (a gravity feed dual action airbrush is best for this) and gently mist the chrome on until you see the effect you want. It is very easy to overdo it and end up with a silver finish rather than a reflective, chrome-like finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillyb1 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Dr. Whalen gives good advice; however, I find that modelers obsess unnecessarily about using Alclad chrome and, to a lesser extent, polished aluminum. Make sure the parts you are going to paint are visibly smooth and that there are no mold lines or other problems to correct. If you are shooting a thin primer through your airbrush you probably don't need to do any sanding at all. And I do recommend priming the parts first. In my experience, the Alclad black base is really, really thin and will run if you give it the chance. Other blacks, not so much. I've been using Tamiya's TS-14 with great results. As long as the black has no visible imperfections, don't do anything to it. And Dr. Whalen's best advice is something that varies from Alclad's recommendations and that of many other modelers; however, I do agree that it is best to spray the Alclad within about an hour of applying the base coat. I have gotten the best results this way, often shooting within fifteen minutes of base coat application. Just try it out and see what happens. And good luck. Alclad's shiny finishes are an indispensable tool, I believe, and they are a boon to us modelers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Ahh... thanks for the replies. Yes everything I read says to wait overnight after applying the black as well as the chrome. Which I found odd because using only light coats it was flashing off pretty fast. And you're correct, the black really is very thin, I noticed that on the grille area. I got one sinlge piece of dust on the 13 pieces I did and it just so happens to be on the front bumper aaaargh! But as it is my test run for using alclad I will let it slide. I have waited 16 hours anyhow and will be doing the chrome coats shortly. I will have to get my hands on some finer wet & dry anyway once I get to doing the body paint and clears, also because I prefer to prime almost every surface I paint with can or airbrush. I may even look into a polishing set since it appears some of you guys have amazing results with your paint finishes. Thanks again for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Okay first use of it and I gotta say I am impressed. I think I did get a little much on the front bumper, as I was trying to do a pass from each side and from the bottom then the top to cover all the angles and nooks in the part. But I am pleased with the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Johnston Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 It came out well. I think the real key to Alclad are 3 things. Smooth black or dark blue ENAMEL paint as a base. NO clear... Very low spray pressure. Like 5-7 psi Spray on the part at an angle. Not directly like you'd paint a body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Thanks Jeff. 5-7psi??? I think i can trust my regulator to go to 10 but even using my Mojo 3 or my HP-CS's I dont think I would even get a mist under that! But you can sure bet I am gonna try it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagercr Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 It came out well. I think the real key to Alclad are 3 things. Smooth black or dark blue ENAMEL paint as a base. NO clear...Very low spray pressure. Like 5-7 psiSpray on the part at an angle. Not directly like you'd paint a body. I don't have a lot of experience using Alclad, but I have heard that you can put down a clear coat before using Alclad. You could ask John Teresi as he is the master of Alclad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quick GMC Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) It came out well. I think the real key to Alclad are 3 things. Smooth black or dark blue ENAMEL paint as a base. NO clear... Very low spray pressure. Like 5-7 psi Spray on the part at an angle. Not directly like you'd paint a body. the first two aren't entirely true. You can spray over any color, with or without clear. It's the smoothness that is the most critical. I also spray at a higher psi, like 25is.The more sever of an angle, the better shine you will get. I actually try and spray across the surface as much as possible. Here is my WIP showing some results http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99418&hl= Edited March 8, 2015 by Quick GMC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 Man, so many different techniques. I will have to play with it some I think. Thanks for the info guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 Here's something else: Do you clear over the chrome? Would it make a difference? And if yes, would you use an acrylic or an enamel clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Johnston Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 the first two aren't entirely true. You can spray over any color, with or without clear. It's the smoothness that is the most critical. I also spray at a higher psi, like 25is.The more sever of an angle, the better shine you will get. I actually try and spray across the surface as much as possible. Here is my WIP showing some results http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99418&hl= I've used Alclad for years and maybe a better way for me to have said it is... for me...this is the way that I get the best results. Those things I listed work best for me. Others may have other techniques. I always get silver when I spray at too high a pressure. Stray, they key is you have to get a bottle and some parts and find what works best for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quick GMC Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Here's something else: Do you clear over the chrome? Would it make a difference? And if yes, would you use an acrylic or an enamel clear? No, if you clear it, it loses it's effect. Also, if you handle it with bare hands, it's likely to dull or even turn black at some point. I always use latex gloves to handle it. Many parts I have handled with bare hands have turned black somewhere down the road. I think it's the oils in your skin. I've used Alclad for years and maybe a better way for me to have said it is... for me...this is the way that I get the best results. Those things I listed work best for me. Others may have other techniques. I always get silver when I spray at too high a pressure. Stray, they key is you have to get a bottle and some parts and find what works best for you. You're exactly right. I'm in a unique climate and almost everyone's painting advice has not worked for me over the years. I've had to kind of find my own way, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Johnston Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I just finished spraying these resin wheels. Alclad over Testors gloss back enamel. I just really love this stuff ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quick GMC Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Alclad is a lacquer. General rule of thumb is no lacquer over enamel, although it's not always disastrous. I would be careful. I think with how thin Alclad goes down and how fast it dries, it probably wouldn't cause any harm. My next Alclad session will be over Scale Finishes Gloss Black. I have been using Alclad Gloss Black Base, but I messed around with some Scale Finishes today and it laid down MUCH smoother for me without any effort. It stays on the part better too. The Alclad is so thin it takes quite a bit to build up a good base. Both are lacquers and dry very quickly, I'd recommend trying one of them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I'm ready to take the big plunge and try Alclad chrome. But before I start, what will I clean my airbrush with? It says not to use mineral spirits on the bottle. I have some 99% isopropyl alcohol.Will that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Testors Gloss Black enamel is a standard for a base coat when using Alclad ...... As for cleaning your airbrush , hardware store variety lacquer thinner works just fine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Alclad is so thin it takes quite a bit to build up a good base. Both are lacquers and dry very quickly, I'd recommend trying one of them out. It has been my experience that you really lose a lot of shine if you attempt to "build up a good base"... I've found that you need to know when enough is enough... and stop right then and there. If you go beyond, you tend to have the "chrome" turn into silver paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Testors Gloss Black enamel is a standard for a base coat when using Alclad ...... As for cleaning your airbrush , hardware store variety lacquer thinner works just fine . Lone wolf, I've got it direct from Badger not to run lacquer thinner through the airbrush. It's OK for the nozzles though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I've tried spraying Alclad over several different kinds of black paint & have just settled on using Duplicolor black in a spray can. I've had a couple of funny reactions with spraying over Testors gloss black & Krylon. Mind you, I'm not spraying bumpers & the like. Mostly just small parts like mirrors, engine parts, etc. so I really don't care if it's perfect. If you're spraying small parts, just a coat of primer, a coat of Duplicolor gloss black & then a light coat of Alclad will give you fine results. The outside & inside mirrors & antennas on both of these Chryslers were done in this way. Works for me. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I have owned a Badger 150 for 30 years . That's all I have ever ran through mine . Not doubting your word at all . Quite possibly , the model you are using reacts to lacquer thinner internally . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I have owned a Badger 150 for 30 years . That's all I have ever ran through mine . Not doubting your word at all . Quite possibly , the model you are using reacts to lacquer thinner internally . It is a 350.Apparently, the rubber seals are vulnerable to lacquer thinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Sooooo , does this mean that you are limited to what paint mediums that you can use ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I have a cheapo Badger 200 That I've been using for several years & I clean it after every use with MCW "airbrush cleaner", a very "hot" lacquer thinner. Hasn't hurt a thing. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Sooooo , does this mean that you are limited to what paint mediums that you can use ? I don't think so. The paints are less strong than their solvents. Does that make sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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