Steve Keck Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Seats are pretty much done. I see I need to do some touch up. Suspension and exhaust components are ready to install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 That pattern on the seat inserts works very well. Nice shading/detailing on the chassis parts too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prime Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 This is one of my favorites cars. The prototypes wheels look great. I have a question for you, are u familiar with the sherline 4530 lathe if so. can you recommend the right size tools or parts that I will need to make my own wheel. I am planning on buying this lathe. thanks for any help in advanced! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Thanx! I'm glad you like my nuts! Now I'm very worried about you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keck Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 That pattern on the seat inserts works very well. Nice shading/detailing on the chassis parts too. what did you use for the wash on the exhaust/muffler? the seats do look very cool Thanks! The seats were done with Modeler's carbon kevlar decals. The door panels will also have the CK decals. The wash is thinned Tamiya Smoke, X-19. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keck Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 are u familiar with the sherline 4530 lathe if so. can you recommend the right size tools or parts that I will need to make my own wheel. William, the zero hand wheels are a good choice. To turn the sleeves or rims: In addition to what is included in the 4530 package you will need a tailstock Jacobs drill chuck and chuck key to hold drill bits. Centering drill bits, part no. 3021, are necessary for starting holes. Regular drill bits will enlarge the hole to the approximate inside diameter. A boring tool, part no. 11970, will finish the inside. Once the outside is turned to the final dimension and the inside is finished the rim is separated from the stock with a cut- off tool held in a special tool post, part no. 3002. All the above will only get you sleeves. To machine wheel centers will require a mill attachment or stand alone mill with a rotary table. Sorry, but mills are still out of my league. At least until I win the lottery. The 4530 comes with hexagonal keys. Use them sparingly. They exert too much torque. Instead, get a t-handle or screw driver handle hex key for the size used on the tool posts and tailstock. In addition to the one sharpened high-speed steel cutting tool included in the 4530 package, get a set of 5 blanks and learn to grind your own. Here’s how to do it: http://www.sherline.com/grinding.htm. Joe Martin’s book, Tabletop Machining is invaluable. Get it now. Keep it under your pillow. Cutting oil. And last: Safety glasses. Wear them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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