Pro Tech Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Hey guys, I started this a little while ago. It's a 1/16 scale blown 426 hemi that came from one of the F/E Top Fuel Revell kits. I will be building this for a display engine (to take to shows I vend at) to show off alot of my new 1/16 scale product line. I will be posting as I build different stages using Pro Tech's detail parts. If anyone has any questions on any of the products used in the build please ask away. Till the next step thanks for looking. Charlie Pro Tech 321-960-0532 protech_modelproducts@yahoo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Great Idea Charlie, can't wait to see this get started and the ProTech parts to start rolling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddgass Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Great Idea Charlie, can't wait to see this get started and the ProTech parts to start rolling. 2X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbutcher Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I am using the same engine as a statring point for a blown, twin carbed street motor for my 1/16th 55 chevy, I am looking forward to your new 1/16th scale, I am very interested in seeing your 1/16th carberators, I will be watching this build for ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) Charlie.... is is awesome my friend. Your engine is looking great and I cant wait to see this cone together. very clean work so far keep up the great work. I will be following along. Edited January 12, 2012 by Mooneyzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragalley Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Currently working on a Steve Carbone build-up using Chuck's great decals. Always good to see other techniques/tricks on making it better. Between your effort and Chris's fantastic Army F/C build-up, will have plenty of inspriration to make mine better. Dragalley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Hey Dragalley would love to see pics on this build you are doing. Is this a 1/16th scale build too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 super clean looking start, charlie. love your ability for clean details! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragalley Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Chris, Been away for awhile on business and will get back on it soon. Yes, 1/16th scale. Was originally going to do the early 392 version, but decided to do the 426 from the 71 Indy 'burndown". Will take pictures shortly and post them under a separate topic. Dragalley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I look forward to seeing it. thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyno Davo Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Just spotted some of your !/16 stuff Charlie, nice work. I'll make contact to place an order. Looking forward to this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 David... I have some of Charlies 1/16th scale stuff and it is beautiful. You can't go wrong with it. I can't wait to use some of it on my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro Tech Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Thanks guys, appreciate it. Just a very small update here. I wanted to show how my Nut/Bolt Heads (PTMC 7) can be used in 1/16 scale. These are listed in my 1/25 catalog but are really a multi-scale item. I used the .040 size here and used Future (floor coating) to attach them. Thanks :as always" for looking. If you have any questions, please ask away. Charlie Pro Tech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Thanks Charlie for the update. So I have to ask, with your Nut/Bolt set when you pull them off of the black backing are the backs of the PE flat? The reason for asking, is I purchased some Nut/Bolt PE, can't remember who now... but when I went to apply them the backs of the PE had like a raised area. Causing them to not lay flat on my subject matter. Or is there a process one should use to get the PE part off of the back paper backing so this doesn't happen? Still new to the small PE parts that come on this paper backing stuff. I have only dealt with PE on the tin tree sort of thing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic Photos Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Charles looking great nice detail. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pol Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Charlie you always do nice work. Now can explain how you attach those PE nuts in bolts. Or better show photos on how you attach them. I always to buy them to use them but have no idea to do this if I did I would buy them for sure. John Pol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) Hey Bart... you should be able to take your xacto knife and slide the tip under the bold head very carefully and pull off the rubber backing. tje rubber backing is there to hold the parts for lack of better the packaging. depending how the PE parts are made is they either tend to be on a tree where ou have to cut then off and then file/sand or in my opinion the ones on the rubber.backing are more user friendly but cost a little more to make. John... wth these bolt heads you basically take them off the backing and you will need to glue them to whatever parts you want. You can glue them with white glue, 5 min epoxy, gator glue (its a white glue kind of like micro scales krystal kleer glue but is an acrylic glue) and future floor wax. I have yet to try it Charlie's way with using Future but really want to try it out. I yhink it really boils down to personal preference on what you find the easiest and best for your application. you could do ca glue as well but would need to be careful because where it sticks it may be stuck. the other allw you time to get it into position. Edited January 17, 2012 by Mooneyzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro Tech Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks Chris for chiming in with the great info. Like Chris said it all boils down to personal preference on gluing etc. so here's the way I glue P/E parts. First, Bart, the nuts/bolts are perfectly flat on both sides so they lay flat on your subject. On gluing any P/E parts this is my process - if the surface is gloss or semi-gloss I use Future (floor coating), I think it's now called Pledge with Future Shine. I use a very small (00000) brush and apply a small dab (smaller than the part size) where you want to apply the part to. Next use the same brush to pick-up the part and lay it down onto the dab of Future you applied. If you need to move the part use a toothpick to move into final position. If you make any mistakes you can use glass cleaner and clean the Future off and start over. If the surface is a flat sheen I will use 5 min. epoxy. Charlie Pro Tech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro Tech Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 Hey guys, got a little more done on the injector hat. I have listed descriptions below pics. Thanks for looking! Pro Tech parts I will use to detail the scoop - PTMC 7 Nut/Bolt Sets .020 and .030 along with MCLS 19 Barrel Valve. Here is barrel valve installed detailed with the .030 nuts/bolts. I tossed the kits butterflies, made new ones out of sheet styrene and glued them from the backside. I glued the scoop halves together, filled/sanded the seam and final sprayed with aluminum color. To do the cross-shaft I used some small solder (.028 I had) cut to fit the three openings and glued in place with Future. Next I added the .020 nuts/bolts to the shaft also with Future. Charlie Pro Tech protechmodelparts.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) Charlie... that injector hat is looking great. the detail is very clean i think I am going to have to borrow your idea on the bold heads on the solder. That looks killer. keep up the great work on this. Edited January 23, 2012 by Mooneyzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic Photos Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Looks great Charlie very nice detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romell R Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hey Charlie very nice brother, but then your parts are top notch so what eles could I exspect out of something you build? Keep up the great work and thx for supporting the hobby, its always a pleasure when I purchase parts from you, outstanding customer service! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scalenut Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 killer detail , ! may I say that unless it gets a nut on the backside ,, it's a screw ...not a bolt. hence the term "bolting" something together" vs tightening a "screw" . if it goes into a threaded hole ...it's a screw(unless it doesn't have a head ,, than it's a stud) everyone seems to call everything a "bolt" on this forum regardless ,, I want one ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) andy, hate to disagree with you but, what determines a screw from a bolt is it's diameter not it's use. bolts start at 1/4" and go up. screw sizes are refered to by # sizes i.e. a # 10 screw. screw sizes start at #12 and work there way down. hope this helps. edit: and just for clarification they are machine screws. Edited January 26, 2012 by comp1839 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romell R Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 andy, hate to disagree with you but, what determines a screw from a bolt is it's diameter not it's use. bolts start at 1/4" and go up screw sizes are refered to by # sizes i.e. a # 10 screw. screw sizes start at #12 and work there way down. hope this helps. Now thats something I never knew.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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