patrol52

Don't know about you, but how much window tint do you need? If you find a local shop that does window tint, you can probably convince them to let you dig through their trash and get scraps of the tint material. It is thin plastic with a sticky coating on one side that is revealed when you peel away a clear film. All you have to do is peel it off and stick your window to it, then trim. Sorry I don't have any experience with trying to paint the windows. Come to think of it, it might be cool to do a greenish tint that most glass has, maybe that can be done with paint.

I'm not sure, but I think one of the many possible reasons a good model has yet to be made, is the fact that there are so many panels on the car. All the fenders, body, hood pieces, and running boards really need to be separate to make a decent representation. It it impossible to paint one that is completely assembled [i.e. fenders on] cause the back side is not reachable (at least on the 1:1.) If one really wanted to, that kit could be decently built to make a reasonable version of the 1:1, without too much hassle. (BTW, If anybody needs some pictures of ACD cars, I have some from the ACD reunion in Auburn.) The '37 Cord; however, is not worth the time I am going to spend to make it holy.

My Neighbor has one of these 1:1. Talk about macho truck! Looks good.

The first trailer design (top) is made by Talbert, it is designed so that the center section lifts up by four hydraulic cylinders under what can be seen as the aluminum boxes. In the model, we used small air cylinders that could be hooked up, but were not, due to the time constraints we had on it. (it had to be finished for a chili cook off) The second trailer design (bottom) is made by Nelson, and uses four hydraulic screw jacks at each corner of the lift mechanism. My dad found some small electric motors with a gear reduction (much more torque that way) that we placed at the bottom of each acme screw. They are all powered by a common battery pack that is mounted under the rear of the frame with a small two position toggle switch to run up and down.

Looks great. If you want to do anything to the ac line, paint the middle part flat black, that's where they are rubber or insulation. The ends are normally silver, but it doesn't look bad as is.

Lego has a program called Lego Digital designer. You can download it here: Lego Digital Designer This program allows you to build stuff on screen, and then it can even tell you the price of the kit and allows you to order whatever you built. It could be handy for building your molds. The only problem that I could see is that you need some Legos for reference on your measurement. Is this the cheapest way to get Legos, probably not, but it is kinda fun and there are some interesting creations that can be made.

My dad is a mechanical engineer at a company [Formerly Wabash Alloys] that recycles aluminum. They deliver their product in ingot and molten form. In order to safely transport the molten aluminum on the highways, they partnered with several trailer companies to develop these low center of gravity trailers. Both designs allow the "metal pot" to be considerably lower during transit then raise up to gravity drain once they arrive at their destination. My dad built the first one for the company's display at the local chili cook-off. After building one, he decided that he needed to build one of the other design, so we have been working on it for awhile and finally got it finished. These are both made of steel with tack welds in strategic locations, but JB Weld is the primary glue that holds it together. We made the rear wheels out of rubber casters and sink strainers. Currently, our only problem is that the trailer is 1/10 scale, and we cannot find a semi tractor of the same scale (it would be difficult to scale the trailer down, so we really need a 1/10 tractor [any help appreciated])

Looking real good. I like the stance. Definitely can't go wrong with a 327 and 4-speed . I'd run headers and some short pieces of tubing to possibly re-direct the noise !

Mike, That steering wheel was from my parts box of models that either my dad built or his friend built back in the day. Consequently, I don't know what it is from. I asked my dad and he didn't have any idea, but our best guess would be a Ford Model A or T, possibly a T-bucket or a vintage race car. (I know my dad didn't build any old race cars, but definitely had a t-buckets, a model T, and some Model A's.) If I happen to find anything else, I will post it for sure. Thanks everybody, for the comments. Wes

There is a bit of unfairness in the comparison here. Windows (even XP) was designed to run on the computers built since it came out in 2001. On the other hand, many of the G4 and G5 series computers were originally designed to run mac os 9. Although they CAN run os X, they are not nearly as good at it as the newer multi-processor Intel based machines. I have several older machines running os X that will never be able to be upgraded past 10.2 because they don't even have DVD drives to install it, but it's ok because they can't handle the features as well as the newer computers. Even if you purchase one of the older computers that was designed for os X, you will see noticeable speed difference over a computer that was upgraded to it from os 9 or before. One thing I didn't mention earlier: If you do get a laptop, it would be my choice to get the MacBook or the MacBook Pro 17" and stay away from the MBP 15"--as far as I can tell both have longer battery lives than the 15". (I like my 15" cause it fits in my backpack, but I would love more battery life over convenience.)

I have a 15" MacBook Pro 2GigHz core duo Intel machine. It is dual boot able to mac os X or windows (XP) due to my need to run AutoCad and other cad software. I have always used a mac, so windows feels very foreign to me and uncomfortable, although I do know how to use it to get what I need to do, done. If I were to buy another computer, It would be the iMac (probably a bigger one.) Two reasons: 1) Bigger hard-drive capability than laptop 2) For the same price as a faster laptop, you get more storage and a larger screen, furthermore, I already have a laptop that I don't carry around much anymore. If I already had a decent keyboard and monitor and the like, I would get a mac mini and an external hard-drive. The only real driver problem for mac is on old printers and 3rd party not-so-big name devices, like scanners. You can typically do a google search to find out real fast if there is a driver for your hardware. Unfortunately, some hardware is reverse engineered and the driver cobbled together back when it was made, so re-engineering it hasn't happened yet, and possibly never will, on the other hand, you may get luck and it was popular enough for somebody to figure out how to make it work, and then you're in. Another note on hardware, while I'm at it--Old mac os did not need a right click, so they didn't add that functionality until sometime in the mid 90's. As for new Apple computers and mice, the right click menu is accessible by ctrl clicking on the trakpad on laptops or by simply placing two fingers on it and then clicking. The mighty mouse had both buttons even though it is not separate buttons like other mice. You can also scroll both up and down and side to side with both the trakpad on laptops and the scroll button on the mouse--do that in windows without pushing a button! About macs, there are many powerful programs that let you get work done because you don't have to fight everything. The only major application purchases I made were Microsoft Office and Adobe Creative suite (photoshop.) Everything else is available for the mac usually for free or very small activation fees. In fact, you can run open office (neooffice for mac) which is a free application that opens Microsoft Office format documents, spreadsheets, and presentations. (I would seriously consider waiting on the new version of Office for mac, because I don't think that the 2004 mac version (current) supports the 2007 windows format (current) files--Open Office should work for now.) Other applications I use frequently: Firefox or Camino (web browsers), iChat (AIM account), Apple Mail (access webmail), iTunes (music), and iPhoto (picture library/organizer and some editing capabilities), also Quick Time and VLC player (movie players). Notice out of these, 3 are not apple programs, which I installed myself. I doesn't take much to make the default apple environment very use able and convenient for your everyday usage.

My local hobby shop carries the evergreen plastic stock. I'm not sure, about other places, but mine has all their inventory in the model railroad section. Anyway, they sell white plastic sheets in several thickness and also clear sheet (I've only seen the one thickness), that can be cut with scissors (.015" .4mm thick), unlike your common thickness of plexi-glass or something. I use the stuff for flat windows, and know it could easily make curvature (don't know how tight of a corner you are trying to make, but it may not be as flexible as what Bill showed.) I haven't ever tried, but it may be possible. Here is a picture of where I used it. I didn't spend enough time fitting it though!

It depends on what you get for paint. Most paint companies make metallic paint in spray cans. As with any paint, you should primer with the appropriate type of primer paint (no Lacquer over Enamel!!!!!!!!!!) There are also candy paints, and some other special metallics out there in spray can form. You will usually see these sold in sets or the can will have some indication that is it part of a multi-step process. With these type of paint system, you will usually put down a base coat (some color, like silver, black, or white), then after appropriate dry time, you apply the candy or metallic coat, then finally, for the maximum gloss, you apply clear. I have used the HOK three step spray cans from Wal-mart for candy colors and also the color changing metallic. I also have used the spray cans from the automotive section (Both Wal-mart and Car parts stores should have the touch-up), which are touch-up colors (great if you want to duplicate a factory vehicle or just like the color!) These all work pretty well, and a few tips if you decide to go that route: 1) follow the directions on the can (if it says "do not re-coat after 4 hrs" it probably has a reason) 2) prime everything the same color. This is a good time to look for imperfections and anything else you can't live with--the final paint won't hide big stuff 3) don't worry about gloss with the candy or metallic coat--those $0.95 cans of clear @ Walmart will give great gloss if used properly (Enamel clear should seal any paint, and not react with it either) 4) allow lots of dry time before polishing, otherwise you could have problems 5) above all be sure to test out the process you decide on, to see how it works and will look when finished

I built this at the beginning of summer for a 4-H project. I am pretty happy with it's turnout, except that the paint cracked, but oh-well. I used a spare Revell '32 Ford for parts. It's frame got chopped at the end of the running boards, and is custom from there back. My door panels to match the seat. I really need to find the pre-made plastic for that--having to file all those grooves was a pain. I want to change the bar that runs on top of the engine. It really makes it look like there is a drastic slope there, which really isn't. I used ballpoint pen springs in the rear, and a soda can cut into strips for the front spring--it needed an offset, so why not while I was there? Here you can see the oak bed and aluminum tape bed strips. Also the 40 Ford dash.