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1936 MG SA Saloon


kennb

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I heat it over a candle until it gets very pliable and limp......I am setting up a short tutorial that I will post this week end showing how to do that and what is needed and a lot of different shapes,,,,,I am experimenting on making my wheels this way also and will show that......Thank you for the questions since they help in setting things up and what I need to include.

Kenn

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Mr. Borst, I bought (through MagCloud) your book on making a Tatra(fascinating company) model some time ago - it made me think of the Gerald Wingrove books. Beautiful workmanship. BTW, Bondo has a much better product (which you are probably aware of): looks very similar (same size tube) but is a two part putty. Very easy to use, stronger, much faster and doesn't shrink since it is not gassing out like the red stuff. Cleans up with alcohol.

Thanks for sharing this build.

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Gerald

You are very correct with the 2 part bondo. I used to build 1:1 custom Corvettes and Mustangs and used more that I care to admit to. I find for the little bit I use that the putty does fairly good other than taking so long to cure properly. Did not know it came in tubes,,,,I will have to look............. B)

Thank you also for getting the book. I hope that it helped you in some way.

Kenn

Edited by kennb
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I heat it over a candle until it gets very pliable and limp......I am setting up a short tutorial that I will post this week end showing how to do that and what is needed and a lot of different shapes,,,,,I am experimenting on making my wheels this way also and will show that......Thank you for the questions since they help in setting things up and what I need to include.

Kenn

THANKS AGAIN KENN,

LOOKING FORWARD TO YOUR TUTORIAL

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Here is the nearly complete rear end for this car. I will be going into detail of the construction in the thermal forming tutorial that I posted part 1 of tonight,

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It still needs some clean up and the springs, brakes and jacks need to be made.

Kenn

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I took yesterday to add a few bits to the engine and firewall. I use the photos to get shapes and general layout on what I can see but end up faking in the bits I cant see that I feel need to be there to fill in spots. Theree has to be a certain level of detail parts to give the impression that you everything there whether you do or not.For this i use tubing, built up shaped parts like the water pump and stamped parts like the pullys. I feel that if you have enuff of the layers of parts that show and add some here and there to sujest what you can noy normally see it looks more finished and if you hove something out of place a bit or not just right it will not show unless you find someone who has an intimat knowledge of the particular car you built up.

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i still have the right side to fill in with the steering and manifolds. After all the painting is donw the 3rd layer of detail goes in with the wires and piping here and there. I will most likely have a lot of futtzy wires going about to make it look conplete.

I only have pictures to go by and the dont show all areas very good.

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Thank you for looking and the comments and questions.

I did start the Thermal forming thread 2 minutes before the forum crashed on Thusday, :rolleyes:

Kenn

Edited by kennb
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started getting the intake manafold put togehter, and getting the front sheet metal aligned and closer to finish...Guess I am going to have to get the frame brought up to speed next........all the comments are welcome, thank you.

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Edited by kennb
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Front sheet metal is complete and ready for the paint shop. I added some detailing to the radiator and top of the hood. Not quite true to the car but I think it needed some details that were common to the period.

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Thank you for looking and commenting.

Kenn

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Time to get to the suspension but have to get some wheels fo this.Checked the read axel and had to remove a cross member to relocate it.

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on to the wheels. I used an empty tape enter for the molds to make the solid wheels out of 1/4" stripps aboit 13 1/2" long colied inside.

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After some sanding they are starting to look like wheels. Need to make some temporary centers until I can make up the wire rims for it.

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Thank you for looking.

Kenn

Edited by kennb
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I found that I had to fit the front fenders to the inner fenders before I can do the front suspension.

I heat up .20 plastic and started to form the ineer fender by hand and eye. I reheated and formed several times until

I had the shape I wanted close to the origional, There is still some additional fitting and reshaping of the hood panels but

that may be able to wait for now, I rework things as I go along as more parts are fitted since I negleted to fully look at things before

I build them up. I have the same problem on the carberators in as they ended up too high to clear the hood so I will have to rework them.

That is one of the things that happen when you have no drawings to go by and only eyeballing off the photos. Things are close enough

for most people looking at them and it serves the purpose to give a credable model.

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Kenn

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have the springs roughed out and the front and rear axel built up now. It is starting to come together now. Just have to finish the wheel and get the thing put together for the test assembly to make sure the part are all going to come togehter properly.

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Kenn

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Thank you for the comments. I have been working on the chassis and have the fuel tank done and located, the rear jacks in place,(this car had built in jacks that woulf totally lift the car off the tires), and the rear floor pan in place. I also have almost 200 photos on my photobucket page that I have a link to below.

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Thank you for taking the time to view my efforts.

link to additional photos

http://s126.beta.photobucket.com/user/shutter-bug/library/1936%20MG%20Saloon

Kenn

Edited by kennb
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