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"Therapy" Deuce Roadster - Completed 7-6, Now Under Glass


Bernard Kron

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After melting a ’51 Chevy Fastback Coupe right after completing 3 weeks of bodywork and paint (see: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91021 for all the gory details) I needed some simple therapy to get the modeling juices flowing again. For me nothing’s more therapeutic than a Deuce Roadster. And simple too, if I want it to be, having built countless Revell Deuces of one sort or another in the past few years. So I decided to build a Deuce Highboy as straight out of the box as my sensibilities would allow. To keep finish work to a minimum I decided on a primer paint job, in this case Duplicolor Black Primer. Except for the front wheels (AMT ’51 Chevy – yeah, you guessed it…) and tires (courtesy of Speed City Resin, the rear wheels (Plastic Performance Holman & Moody 10” steelies supplied by Early Years Resin) and the Carter AFB carburetor (also from Early Years), everything else is from the old series Revell Good Guys Deuce Highboy or a related kit (the dashboard and steering wheel are from the 5-window coupe).

I started this 3 days ago and hope to have it done within the next 2… Simple and to the point in a subject I know well. Just what the doctor ordered!

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

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Edited by Bernard Kron
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I really like it looks simple and cool. I admire builders like you Bernard. I build box stock except wheels but you can pull parts and wheels from different sources and know what kit has what. I never could do that...

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Thanx everyone!

This project is moving along quickly now. I’m deep into the assembly stage where it pays to be careful, especially with flat black paint which shows the slightest marks and stains all too clearly. There are so many things I now take for granted in building these Revell Deuces – revisions I make as a matter of course with hardly a thought, corrections to what I consider basic flaws. The first thing I do is lower the front end. The stance of the basic kit is just so bland. The next thing I do is ditch the wide front tires! They’re so mid-90’s… If it’s fenderless then I fill the bumper bracket notches in the frame horn tips. The molding dips in the plastic of the frame rails get attention if they’re bad (it depends on the vintage of the kit). And of course, if it’s a highboy, that awful “curtain rod” brace between the firewall and the grill shell absolutely has to go. So that means filling the hole in the firewall and making two small ones for a proper pair of braces on either side made from .020” music wire. So even though this is largely an out-of-the-box build there’s really a fair amount of preliminary prep involved.

Here’s a workbench progress shot showing where things are at now over the past 24 hours. The body and interior are glued in place, the motor finished and detailed and installed, the suspension completed and the grill installed as well. The wheels are glued in place, too. What’s left is making the aforementioned grill shell braces, installing the seat and steering wheel, installing the lighting and license plate, and all the small stuff like the door handles, gas cap, etc. I might have this done tomorrow night if I don’t mess up along the way…

Thanx, for lookin’,
B.

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Hello Bernard,

I'm nuts too about hot rods, and yours is showing some nice details.

Since this is a workbench build, I have to say those wheels fit horribly in the tires. Can you fix them? I really feel that the wheel/tire fitment is an important issue in car model kits. This is a very good example of what I'm writing about. Let the wheels be resin this, and resin that, but they have to finally fit. Those don't.

I hope you take no offense.

Michael

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Bernard, I have found that if I apply Testors Dullcote to get a flat finish, and leave it dry overnight (a few hours...?), that finish is pretty durable, far more than a flat color paint finish.

Thanx for the tip, John. I will definitely try it since even a tough primer like Duplicolor is still a dirt and grease magnet and a bear to deal with during final assembly.

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