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32 Ford 3 Window


Ajay

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Thanks for the feedback guys - it's much appreciated - just hope I get get this one finished without an mishaps.

Got round to adding the last few details on the engine - namely the coil, starter motor and fuel line for the carbs.

Think that's the engine done now apart from the radiator hoses - so I'm off to chop up the interior next - should be fun !.

rat22.jpg

rat23.jpg

Thanks for looking

Andy

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Simply beautiful! I have to say, I don't know if I would try the carb linkages now either. I'm sure it can be done right, but it could look too busy if not. You have a good package here. I'd call it done if it were on my bench! :)

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Think I've sorted out the interior in terms of fitment - I had to take an angled peice out of the bottom of the door panels to follow the raked body but after a dry run it seems to fit ok. As you won't be able to see much through the windows I'm just going with the stock interior plus seat from the AMT Vickie kit (as it's not as tall as the stock seat) and painting it black. I still need to raise the tunnel to get some clearance on the transmission.

rat25.jpg

Thanks for looking

Andy

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Think I've sorted out the interior in terms of fitment - I had to take an angled peice out of the bottom of the door panels to follow the raked body but after a dry run it seems to fit ok. As you won't be able to see much through the windows I'm just going with the stock interior plus seat from the AMT Vickie kit (as it's not as tall as the stock seat) and painting it black. I still need to raise the tunnel to get some clearance on the transmission.

Nice choice of seat to go with the stock side panels. The photo also shows off the nice clean work on the frame rails. And what is their to say about that beautiful engine?! You're taking the post-rat-rod look to a new level. Looking forward to seeing more.

B.

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Guest Davkin

Wow! That engine is beautiful! If I didn't look at the previous photos I'd have thought you used a machined aluminum pulley set. I really like that attitude of the chop, well, the whole build really.

David

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Ajay, I've got a chop in progress of the 32 3 wind. also i need to know what putty you are using. Your chop looks great, seems to have a rake to it. i went 3/16 which might have been to far, using Bondo glazing putty it's not working very well, might be to old. Haven't did a chop for yrs. used to use something called green stuff, was a glazing putty also. What would you recommend. Any answer will be appreciated. Buy the way the flathead is perfect. :P:D

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Ajay, I've got a chop in progress of the 32 3 wind. also i need to know what putty you are using. Your chop looks great, seems to have a rake to it. i went 3/16 which might have been to far, using Bondo glazing putty it's not working very well, might be to old. Haven't did a chop for yrs. used to use something called green stuff, was a glazing putty also. What would you recommend. Any answer will be appreciated. Buy the way the flathead is perfect. :P:lol:

To be honest it's been a few years since I chopped the top so I don't recall which putty I used at that time - it may have been regular auto body repair filler.

Best thing I can suggest is to try & fill any gaps with sheet plastic - it provides strength and reduces the amount of putty required with less chance of the putty subsequently cracking (apologies if I'm "teaching granny how to suck eggs" here).

These days I tend to use Tamiya Epoxy Putty (quick type) followed by regular auto knifing putty to fill the

sanding scratches.

Hope above helps

Regards

Andy

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I used 3M Spot Putty or red Glazing Putty way back in the 60s until Squadron introduced their "Green Stuff". I am still sure it is re-packaged 3M Spot Putty. Both are still available. The following link...

http://tinyurl.com/33v3wn

...will get you to Squadron Putty at about $3 a tube.

A lot of modelers fall for the magazine guys' whine about shrinkage of this type of putty, and use automotive 2-part putty in brands such as Evercoat. I have NEVER had shrinkage problems with spot putty, and have an AMT 67 Corvette model which I stopped development of radical bodywork on in early 1971 (we had a large earthquake). The 5/16" thick fender flares are still perfect, even with only partial primer coverage. The key is to NOT apply the stuff with a skiploader. Those fenders were built up in many layers. You don't have to mix up a batch to use it either, nor do you have to buy enough to remodel the Statue of Liberty, or worry about the catalyzer going bad.

...but "to each his own", or "whatever blows up your skirt"

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Phew - getting close to completion now - this ones certainly suffered from the "make one alteration & cause yourself several others" syndrome but the chassis went together without any major headaches.

Just a few small bits & pieces left to do - still got to add the scallops to the body.

rat29.jpg

Thanks for looking

Andy

On relection I think I might swap the headlights for the smaller ones in the kit

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Andy, stick with the big bug eye headlights, Your 32 is lookin real fine. Now, whats happening with Merc nbr. 2? Thanks for the input on putty[2 guys], Igonna gine one of the others a try, and the gaps were filled with plastic, probabably not enough. Get the 3 window done and head back to that Merc nbr. 2. :D

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Early on the in the build I decided to add some scallops to break up the black on the body so I spent some time this morning masking up with Tamiya tape.

rat30.jpg

and despite there being 3 inches of snow this morning ! braved the cold in the garage and airbrushed them Tamiya Candy Lime Green.

rat31.jpg

I've swapped the headlights to the smaller ones as imo they're visually more more balanced with the chopped grill.

Thanks for looking

Andy

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That is just about perfect if you ask me. Jody

Shes an absolute star gazer!!

Looks Awesome with those great scallops on it! She's a beauty!!!!!!

Man that thing is awesome! Great hot rod!

Not much more to be said, Andy!! GREAT BUILD!!

Thanks for sharing,

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