Pocherphile Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 (edited) Thanks Cato, I had forgot about this project.........bought as a tear down and rebuild w/a mass of aftermarket and one of a kind parts......only regret, did not save any of the after build photos when completed........sold to a collector in KY. For you Cato..............all things have a beginning and a end........do the best to your abilities. Look forward to your photos. Rick PS: I have one of these in the closet, NIB........future build. Edited March 11, 2014 by Pocherphile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 PS: I have one of these in the closet, NIB........future build. Nothing worse than a 'closet' Pocherphile... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Nothing worse than a 'closet' Pocherphile... No, whats worse is two in the closet and one on the desk, and none are being worked on............... Then again, as a phile, it is a addiction.............lol Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Like I said, an addiction.........bidding, Rolls, located in NC..........hope I can get for a good price! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Cato..............photos, Cato........ Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Down Boy, DOWN! Your Pocher fix is coming. I'm gettin' there, but I'm not a 3-D printer. Got some film in da Land Camera and will develop it soon. I'm actually doin' woik-not chatting on forums....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Down Boy, DOWN! Your Pocher fix is coming. I'm gettin' there, but I'm not a 3-D printer. Got some film in da Land Camera and will develop it soon. I'm actually doin' woik-not chatting on forums....... O Ta.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaydar Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 On that weight issue, are the tires solid or do you intend to fill them? Since the kit designers did not contemplate that extra weight the side walls may not be up to the task over a prolonged period. This would be my concern. Joe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Regardless the tire, kit or aftermarket. A good way to keep tires holding their shape is to fill the tire with a material such as tissue. Rick PS: A must with Big Duce tires, if you work at it a bulge can be made at the spot where rubber hits the pavement just like a real tire. Edited March 16, 2014 by Pocherphile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 On that weight issue, are the tires solid or do you intend to fill them? Since the kit designers did not contemplate that extra weight the side walls may not be up to the task over a prolonged period. This would be my concern. Joe. Good question Joe-glad someone actually read some of this thread! I have the Model Motorcars tires and will post a pic soon when I update progress. They are wonderful-a pliable but firm rubber and the sidewall edges are thin to be in scale. But there is a sold rubber 'spine' molded in. It will directly support the weight. I didn't go as far as I might to add weight. Rick was right-it gets big as you add assemblies. Rick's tip is good-stuffing tires helps over time. I've used dense foam (Trump GT-40) and cotton balls in Tammy 1/12 F-1 and Posche 935. Just use a material that won't break-down over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 A little update. Been working steadily and the key with this one is you have to build (and paint as you go) small subassemblies that you'll need to put in place before you can 'close them in' with the larger assembly. I've actually painted and assembled the main chassis so I'm ahead of what you see here. But it has been tedious. I keep telling myself the fun is coming. The gas tank seen previously in half with weights epoxied in is now joined, seams filled and rivets reappearing:http:// And finished in Hull Red and satin finish: Some Pocher sadness; The steering gearbox must be attached to the frame before the engine goes in so assemble now. HOWEVER, the early kit I have has a rusty worm gear and a crappy nylon pinion gear. After trying hard to file. cut and hack, they continued to bind and not mesh. A call to Marvin at Model Motorcars confirmed that this is common and none of the cars they build have working steering from the wheel-just posable-which is fine by me. I found you must shave the nylon teeth off and position it on the cross shaft or else that shaft will fall out of the steering box. Presto; everything free and easy after that: http:// http:// Another 'ahead of the curve' thing; how do you paint a 25" long object on 4 sides without thumbprints?? I made a jig out of 1/16" rod inserted into 1/8" tube and inserted the small rod into two screw holes in the frame, all stuck into styrofoam. Don't tell the Mrs... http:// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 And a bit more that didn't fit: Finally, the beautiful Model Motorcars tires; the question came up about support for the weight. Here's a poor shot of the inner 'spine' of solid rubber and the thin, scale, flexible sidewalls. http:// Snaps of the chassis assembly soon. Again to any contemplating one; Get plenty of reference, Paul Koo's disc is invaluable, Model Motor Cars' part are beautiful and they are extremely helpful with any questions and parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Oh yea baby, that's what I'm talking about............progress of a Pocher. Love what you did w/the petrol tank, you gotta use proper English when constructing a Rolls. The trunk is the boot and the hood is a bonnet........... I can just hear ya now, oh great, I am progressing and I am going to get a lesson on words. Keep'em coming buddy. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 As far as steering working from the steering wheel, yeah, that's not gonna happen. Even if the steering box gears meshed perfectly, the way the steering wheel mounts (basically held "tight" to the column by a single nut under the horn) pretty much guarantees you that after a few turns lock to lock, the wheel will just spin on the steering column with absolutely no effect on the front wheels. And just so you don't go getting any grand ideas, you can kiss the working brake system goodbye, too. No way can the Pocher system ever be made to actually operate. For starters, the braking system on that Rolls is mechanical (rods and levers), and given the large number of moving parts, there's just too much slack in the system for the movement of the brake pedal to be able to transfer movement to the brake shoes. Even if built perfectly... even with Marvin's aftermarket clevises (which I'm sorry to say were a total waste of money because they won't make the brakes work any more than the kit parts will)... there is literally no way to incorporate the kind of tight tolerances into the system, while at the same time allowing for freedom of movement of all the parts, to actually allow for "working" brakes. Ain't gonna happen. Oh yea baby, that's what I'm talking about............progress of a Pocher. Love what you did w/the petrol tank... Unfortunately the sides of the tank will never be seen on the finished model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Rick-the "English' I am using is not what is commonly heard in the UK. More like the South Bronx... Harry-no illusions about operable parts. I built the Alfa remember? I built the brake guts but no springs so no workie shoes. On this, no working brakes or engine guts, just the crank to get pulley and trans positions accurate. And Marvin shared that magnets are best for the doors, not the supplied latches. I never wanted steering from the wheel, just based on weight and the wonky nut you mention. Well, like you, I'LL know the gas tank's filled, and so will my viewers when I mount this thing on a mirror. I went for those clevises, not for mechanical improvement, but simply because they look so nice and real. They'll also see the hypoid oil sweat on the rear, some grease around the joints, a wet join between block and pan and a little heat use on the exhaust. My starting goal was an older restoration that gets driven regularly. I've seen countless reference pics of these with 'over restored' coach work and pig black bottoms with splash everywhere. I want to strike a middle ground and hope to show that everywhere on the car. I'm probably not good enough to accomplish that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Even sitting on a mirror, the sides of the gas tank will be almost impossible to see. But hey... I filled the seam too, so who am I to tell you anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 I knew you did! And you know, I didn't make the battery cables, the 1000 chassis oil lines and the fuel lines. So I'm not completely nuts -that would be expected for a chassis-only model. Which I love by the way.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Just adding all the missing oil lines and the mechanical distributor linkage on the engine is a project in itself. Which I did, BTW... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 South Bronx or not...........Ya still a Yank as a Brit would refer to ya................ Besides, I want hold it against where a fella is from. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Here is the mostly assembled main chassis. Not everyone's cup of tea but I chose not to finish it in the 'black-everything' that many originals wear. Also didn't want the blinding gloss of over-restored cars. So I shot German gray with satin clear for a low-luster finish. I like it with the Hull red tank and it will not clash with my coach colors. The dampers are a blend of Titan gold, Smoke, IJN gray and Jet exhaust, all washed together. The rears can be seen tucked into the frame rail near the rear kick-up. They screw on from the outside and will have to be removed for the levers and axle installation. The tail pipe (seen tied in place with my dental floss trick) is Gunmetal, lightly polished and will be washed with light rust and 'heated' sand colors. It's one of those parts that you have to finish and hold in place because you can't get it on the rear crossmember and snake under the gas tank. The complete exhaust system is done and finished but doesn't get hung until the levers and axle are in. Next in the assembly sequence (of final-finished parts) are the brake and shift rods and then the tank and rear axle. Haven't started the axle yet but a lot of junk gets attached to it including the rear leaf springs. http:// http:// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Like the German Gray for the frame........the Tamiya spray can for this color is one of those colors I use very oft. Works great for a base color and goes with everything, besides, your old everyday basic black gets boring after you have seen it on everything coming down the pike. Keep'em coming my friend. I for one enjoyed putting the frame together, even with all the gimmicks Pocher tried to incorporate with their kit............you already know what I am talking about. Look forward to more. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Look forward to more. Rick Hope you have patience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Why am I not seeing any photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Why am I not seeing any photos? Dunno-Rick obviously did. Me too...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hope you have patience... of Job............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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