SLEEPER INFO NEEDED

[JARRNO88]

I JUST STARTED BUILDING A AMT PETERBUILT 359 FROM THE #8126 WRECKER KIT. I FOUND A BUNCH OF INFORMATION ON

"TIMS TRUCKS" ABOUT USING A NUMBER OF ITEMS FROM THE REVELL USA PETERBUILT 359 SNAP KIT ON THE AMT PETE TO MAKE IT INTO A PRETTY ACCURATE 1980 359 . I DID'NT SEE ANY INFORMATION ABOUT MAKING CHANGES ETC. TO THE SLEEPER THAT CAME IN THE AMT KIT BUT I CAN REMEMBER READING THINGS IN THE PAST ABOUT THE AMT SLEEPER NOT BEING CORRECT AND THE REVELL SNAP KIT SLEEPER WAS ALOT BETTER BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER WHERE I HAD SEEN THAT INFORMATION AT. DOES ANYBODY KNOW ANTHING ABOUT THE REVELL SNAP KIT SLEEPER BEING THE BETTER ONE TO USE , AND IF IT NEEDS TO BE MODIFIED ANY TO MAKE IT CORRECT FOR A 1980 359 ? THANKS, JARRNO88

[trick my mixer]

If you are talking about the new Revell snap kit, that comes with the sleeper molded together with the cab. If you were going to try use that sleeper you would have to cut it off and it might be more work than it is worth. I am sure someone on here will respond and guide you in the right direction. Good luck

[truckman1981]

I did this but I used the Revell germany 359 that originally comes with the 63 inch flat top not amt 359. The Revell Germany 359 cab and hood is more accurate than the the revell snaptite 359. Here is mine with the sleeper cut from a the snap pete matched to the the revell gremany pete. I hope this gives you a better idea. It was not hard at all to cut apart with a good sharp blade in the xacto knife.I would recommend cutting close to the cab as possible to resemble the boot between the cab and sleeper on the new truck you put the sleeper on.I also had to make a floor for the sleeper and again it was easy with parts from the parts bin or sheet styrene.I also recommend sanding and filling the interior snap holes that are visible on the back of the snap sleeper.Again I hoped this helped.

Edited October 30, 2012 by truckman1981

[mackinac359]

There are several issues with the AMT T501/T522 sleeper box. When Peterbilt increased the cab and sleeper height, they added a 4 inch filler panel to the top of the sleeper doors and to the front and rear panels. AMT made the panels taller, but made the doors taller too, without the 4 inch filler panel at the top (a grab handle could be optioned on the this panel). The roof cap is way off on the shape. AMT made the roof almost squared. (The original 359 kit T500 sleeper cap is the correct shape). You can sand down the corners to reshape the sleeper roof to look more like the real thing.

Here are a couple of pics of the real sleeper that AMT was trying to make. This style of sleeper was used from '72 through early '79 when the round-corner door sleeper for the 36" size debuted. Sidenote: Look at restored pre-72 Peterbilts and check the height difference between the cab and sleeper - if the sleeper looks too tall, it's the later year taller bunk - and doesn't fit well with the shorter cab.

Back in the day, Peterbilt sourced the shell of the 36" sleeper from Kenworth, adding their own roof corners, skin and doors. The roof from an AMT Kenworth W925 kit sleeper is close to the right shape too.

Tim

[JARRNO88]

THANKS FOR THE INFO. I NOW HAVE THE INFORMATION I NEED SO I CAN HAVE THE RIGHT SLEEPER ON THE TUCK.

[lapazleo]

Great info as always on Petes from Tim.