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1969 Mack F Daycab (AITM) with Flatbed Trailer - Plus Tutorial: Glazing Resin Cabs without Glue


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I had the opportunity to visit the original maker of this casting way back in the 70's, He was trained in master mold making as in casting masters for steel, He was a mechanic at a Mack dealership. He made these in an out building and he made them with the intention of making display trucks for Mack and Mack enthusiasts. the model making and selling was second nature since he could sell what he made after making the original for a display. I understand the drawbacks of his models but they are the only ones we have and if you want to build one it is the closet your going to get unless you want to take two R cabs and sat sawing

Very nice truck. I have one waiting to become FDNY Super Pumper Tractor

greg

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Ben, I used the AMT Cruise-Liner as a donor kit. Though I love the old AMT trucks I must say that the fit of the chassis parts was not very good and that the right position of parts was often vague. The same is true for the R985ST. The (originally Ertl) DM600/DM800 are much better .But as far as I know all these kits are OOP and thus extremely expensive.

As far as I know from German forums all newer Italeri kits have a simple generic chassis. Probably an older Italeri kit is easier to convert.

Thanks for your reply. I still intend to buy the a51 and LJX. Thanks Jürgen for your honest input about the cabs problems. I am so greatful to the original master maker and current caster as these trucks just don't exist anywhere else and they look fantastic. I love this forum and have learnt so much from it. Lets stay positive. :)

Ben

Edited by Bennyg
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Hi Jurgen,

I love every part of this, you certainly did a great job considering all the problems, many thanks for pointing these things out...

Andy...

Jurgen,

Your explanation for "supplying substantial information" may be true regarding German Modeling Forums, however, this is not a German forum. It is based in the United States, as is AITM. I wonder if your findings might have been different if the caster was from Germany... I disagree with your reasons and your explanation. As for ignoring your future topics you can consider it done, I have better things to do with my time.

Hi Anthony,

I have just caught with this, none of your comments seem to make any sense, plus, Jurgen never once mentioned anything about him posting on a German forum, this place may be based in the US, but it is an International forum, you'll find that there are an awful lot of forums out on the internet which are also based in the US, so this part of your comment makes no sense what-so-ever, also, I am pretty sure Jurgen would have mentioned the problems if the original caster was for anywhere else in the world, so again this part makes no sense, unless of course you are the original caster or current caster and doesn't like to have his work criticism...

As someone who would of really struggled with some of the problems Jurgen found, I his comments extremely helpful, you also seem to be the only one who has a problem which again, makes me think you are or are related to the original caster or current caster ...

Jurgen paid his own hard earned money for this only to find multiply problems and yet the caster must have known he was selling this with problems and yet did nothing to rectify them, as for your last part, quote : - "As for ignoring your future topics you can consider it done, I have better things to do with my time.", just how childish can you get, may I suggest you grow up...

Andy...

Edited by Johnag4004
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Guys... let's keep the personal sniping out of it.

Anthony had his say, and that prompted a few of you to post your disagreement with what he said. That's fine... but from now on, let's keep the comments here specific to Jürgen's model, and nothing else. I really don't want to lock this, because Jürgen has already said he's coming back with more info on his method for forming the glass. Let's keep this on track and focused on the model.

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Guys... let's keep the personal sniping out of it.

Anthony had his say, and that prompted a few of you to post your disagreement with what he said. That's fine... but from now on, let's keep the comments here specific to Jürgen's model, and nothing else. I really don't want to lock this, because Jürgen has already said he's coming back with more info on his method for forming the glass. Let's keep this on track and focused on the model.

Looking foreward to the window forming stuff.

Ben

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When I joined the MCM Forum nine months ago I concluded my introduction:

„... I join this forum as some kind of refugee from quarrelsome forum users in Germany. Although they are a very small minority it is almost impossible to dodge their attempts of starting a vendetta. I do hope the atmosphere here will be peaceful and really focused on modelling.“

Therefore I ignored Anthony's last post. It was obviously unfounded and not model-related.

Guys... let's keep the personal sniping out of it.

Anthony had his say, and that prompted a few of you to post your disagreement with what he said. That's fine... but from now on, let's keep the comments here specific to Jürgen's model, and nothing else. I really don't want to lock this, because Jürgen has already said he's coming back with more info on his method for forming the glass. Let's keep this on track and focused on the model.

As my a. m. quotation says I agree totally.

In his posts #17 and #21 Harry said everything necessary. He made clear that there is neither censorship nor self-censorship in this forum.

Nevertheless I am grateful for all further supporting posts because they showed me that obviously this is the oppinion of the moderating team a n d the forum members as well.

I am going to return to my workbench now. There is too much work waiting, and life is too short for quarrelling.

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Well all I can say is that since you built that ol' GMC 9500, I have been a fan. This one is in the same vein, outstanding comes to mind. Thanks for pointing out the work that had to be done to make the truck right, it's helpful for us. Keep on building this stuff, I love it.

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Beautiful job Jürgen!!! I like how this rig turned out. I have plans to get, hopefully, at least two AITM bodies/kits. I appreciate the insight so I have a better understanding of what I may need to expect and if I come across some of the issues you had I hope to be able to deal with them as you have. Remarkable build.

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Fixing car windows without glue

This technique, though rather time-consuming, is very useful for resin cabs and for scratch built truck cabs. Mutatis mutandis it can be used also for styrene or diecast truck/car kits/models/conversions

  • if the kit glass is poor or doesn't fit

  • if you want to make sure that no glue is visible on the glass

  • if you want to eliminate the risk that if touching the finished model carelessly the glass falls into the car interior.

The technique is appropriate only for advanced or expert modelers.

I am going to explain it showing AITM resin cabs.

The basic idea

The basic idea is similar to framing a picture. A picture is framed by gluing together a “U” from 3 grooved wood strips. The picture is inserted into the groove of this “U” and a fourth strip closes the “U” and fixes the picture.

Simply replace “picture” by “clear sheet”. Because nobody is able to mill a microscopic groove into a model car, you have to build a groove.

Preparing the resin cab

A typical AITM cab looks like this:

post-11944-0-16860800-1392249991_thumb.j

First you have to remove enough resin around all windows that the following steps are possible. This is messy and time-consuming. Mostly a rotary tool with various steel cutters can be used. Start at the window openings

post-11944-0-22294600-1392249993_thumb.j

and then continue from the inside. When you have removed enough resin the inner edges of the window openings will be varying and not straight. From the inside glue a plane piece of thin sheet (0.3mm or 0.5mm) onto the window opening. Fill the gaps between resin and sheet with super glue or plastic strips. After drying restore the window opening and sand it flush. Now you should have a perfect and plane(!) inner edge.

Plane side and rear windows

From clear sheet (max. 0.4mm thick) cut a “window pane” a bit wider but much higher than the window opening. Mark on a piece of tape what is right/left and top/bottom.

Cut an identical piece of cardboard or other waste that is slightly thicker ( appr. +0.3 mm). Fix it temporarily (e. g. with tape ) onto the window opening in exactly that position the later window pane shall have.

Glue 3 styrene strips to the upper edge and the side edges of the "cardboard window pane". These strips must be slightly thicker than the cardboard. Now the cardboard cannot move to three sides.

Remove the cardboard. From 1mm styrene sheet cut a fitting cab interior lining with matching window opening. Glue it onto the 3 styrene strips.

From the open bottom you can now insert and remove the clear window pane as you like. When assembling the cab after painting secure the invisible long bottom end with glue if necessary. On these pictures the clear window pane is replaced by green paper for better visibility.

post-11944-0-22160600-1392249995_thumb.jpost-11944-0-00925400-1392249997_thumb.jpost-11944-0-81394000-1392249998_thumb.jpost-11944-0-60243500-1392250000_thumb.jpost-11944-0-44292600-1392250002_thumb.j

Do the same with all other side and rear windows.

To be continued as soon as possible

Please give me a feedback if everything is understandable so far.

If necessary tell me which further explanation should be given.

My following description for windscreens requires understanding this first post completely.

Thanks!

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Wow this Mack and the GMC are two of the finest builds I have seen for some time. I keep thinking the pics were lifted from a "sales brochure" the detail is so fine.

Your definably a "Master Modeler" through my eyes.

Thanks for the detailed steps on resin glass - very helpful and look forward to the next installment.

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Thanks for the feedback!

Plane windscreens

Seldom there is enough space around the windscreen for doing exactly the same as on the side and rear windows.

Mostly, however, the space between the windscreen and the side windows („A column“) is too limited for an interior lining - or it would simlpy look unrealistic. Then a special proceeding only for the windscreen is necessary:

As already described in the first instalment prepare the cab also around the windscreen opening, and cut a clear and a cardboard windscreen. Again fix the cardboard windscreen temporarily (e. g. with tape ) onto the windscreen opening in exactly that position the later windscreen shall have.

When cutting the two interior linings for the side windows leave a small gap (=groove) just wide enough for the cardboard windscreen. These two gaps will hold the two side ends of the windscreen.

Next cut a headliner and again leave a small gap just wide enough for the cardboard window pane. The cardboard windscreen makes all three gaps form one single groove. Glue interior linings and headliner in place.

From the bottom you can now insert and remove the clear windscreen as you like. When assembling the cab after painting secure the invisible long bottom end with glue if necessary.

On these pictures the clear windscreen is replaced by green paper for better visibility.

post-11944-0-60932200-1392493763_thumb.jpost-11944-0-71005200-1392493765_thumb.jpost-11944-0-75955300-1392493767_thumb.j

To be continued as soon as possible

Again, please give me a feedback if everything in this second instalment is understandable so far.

If necessary tell me which further explanation should be given.

My following description for curved windscreens requires understanding this second post completely.

Thanks!

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