Scratch-building frame work/roll cages?

[FujimiLover]

I'm mentally designing my Smartuki project. I'm wondering how best to make the cage that the motorcycle engine will be mounted into place.

I had thought about soldering material, thin flexable metal rods as it is easy to bend. Yet, I'm not sure if it's strong enough for this use. I'm also curious as to how to make custom roll-cages and other similar structures.

Any tips on materials, tool's, and how-to's? If you have photos that would be great too.

When I build this project, I'd like it to be as acurate as possible.

Same question can be asked for making custom exaust work.

[Guest Davkin]

If the model is 1/24-25 scale and all plastic I'm sure Evergreen styrene rod will work fine. If the model is a larger scale or is heavy due to the use of other metal parts you might consider using brass and silver soldering it. When bending styrene rod you just need some heat and it will bend quite easily. Brass requires special tools such as this;

http://www.micromark.com/VISE-MOUNTED-WIRE-BENDER,7044.html

Or this;

http://www.micromark.com/UNIVERSAL-BENDER,8229.html

I have both, for your use I think the cheap one will work just fine, it just doesn't give you as many options.

For silver soldering you want this;

http://www.micromark.com/STAY-BRITE-SILVER...-EACH,7556.html

And this;

http://www.micromark.com/PINPOINT-PROPANE-...H-SET,8312.html

Or if you really want to go crazy get this;

http://www.micromark.com/100w-110v-SOLDERI...EEZER,7473.html

If you're real handy with a soldering iron you can get by with that too if it's at least a 40W, I've never had much luck using an iron though, but others have. The advantage of using the torch is that you can set your pieces up and solder them together without disturbing them because you're not touching them. The advantage of the resistance solderer is that you can solder a joint that's pretty close to another without undoing the previous joint. The train guys do some amazing stuff with resistance solderers, a few car guys as well. The soldering iron has the disadvantages of both the torch and resistance solder, you're both touching the parts and not being very precise.

David

[FujimiLover]

I suck at soldering so I dont' want to go there. LOL!

[coopdad]

FujimiLover,

Until now I have been using .1" rod (Evergreen #213) for my cages. It works well but is a little hard to bend often requiring heat. And is just a little large looking, especially for 1/25 models.

But recently I found .093 TUBE (Evergreen #223). To me it looks a little more correct. And the big advantage, it is tube so it has a couple of advantages over rod:

1. it bends much easier

2a. it is so bendable that it will allow you to adjust the curve radius and location very easily.

2b. it holds its curve better. The rod would not stay at the desired radius, heating was often required to force it to stay.

2c. being a tube you can insert wire inside... this makes it hold exactly the curve with NO snap back.

3. it seems less breakable. The .1 rod always seemed to snap when making tight curves

4. and the wire inside the tube works great as locating pegs allowing you to drill holes in the floor and mount it exactly where you want it.

There are disadvantages though. Because it flexes so well, the first hoop starts out very flimsy until you have a few bars in place... this is a little un-nerving to me knowing the cage will be correct... later.

Assuming your project is 1/25/24 I would probably start with the bottom "square" and work up. It seems that everything branches off the bottom.

Good luck and post the progress.

John

[Brendan]

I've had good results using K&S metal tubing. You can bend it any which way you want. You can use solder to hold it together or super glue or epoxy. I've also had good luck using Evergreen Styrene.

[FujimiLover]

I picked up some very thin plastic-covered wire's from Styrene and I according to my receipte here, the size is 1/16x15 round tubing. I'm not sure if those dimensions make any sence, but it look's like it's the right thickness for this scale.

[Mercman]

I've used the 3/32nd Plastruc tubing with great results. Here you can see it forming protection for the front engine bay. I also used it to build the entire roll cage. Bends easily with your fingers, and glues up nice. I use their cement, of superglue to glue it.

[Foxer]

I picked up some very thin plastic-covered wire's from Styrene and I according to my receipte here, the size is 1/16x15 round tubing. I'm not sure if those dimensions make any sence, but it look's like it's the right thickness for this scale.

In 1/25th the 1/16 wire (.0625") would be a hair over 1.5 inches. Not sure what the 15 means.. maybe was the length? In any case, just multiply the actual size by 25 to obtain the scale dimension (for 1/25 scale).