SuperStockAndy Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 A year ago I could paint just fine. Now, my can always seems to run out, and my paint is bad. My first guess is I'm putting it on too thick? This is SERIOUSLY starting to get on my nerves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Andy, are you using an air brush or a rattle can? If using a brush, you need to thin the paint even more. You are thinnning it aren't you? If you're having trouble with a rattle can, clean the nozzle or spray tip. You may just need to pitch that can and start with a fresh one. Are you warming the can in warm water before you spray? This seems to help make the paint flow real nice. Don't give up as you were getting good results before and you WILL again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Thanks Nick I'm using a spray can. I'm too cheap for an airbrush. I've heard of warming the can first...never done it though. I'll have to try it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Follow this to Tamiya's website...great info here PAINT LINK.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Thanks for the link Mike! Very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Another tip when using spray cans is always take the nozzle off and put it in a jar of brush cleaner or equivilent when you're done spraying. It keeps the nozzles spraying just like new ones. Just make sure to do a couple of test shots before you spray your model to get any thinner remaining in the nozzle out. If you're using Tamiya laquers,you'll need to put them in laquer thinner of course. IMO,Tamiya laquers are the best when it comes to spray paints and well worth the extra money over the Testors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Thanks Roger The only bad Tamiya experience I've had is my cursed Fairlane...TS-26 Pure White must not like that car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Thanks Roger The only bad Tamiya experience I've had is my cursed Fairlane...TS-26 Pure White must not like that car. What problem are you having with it Andy? I painted an '84 GMC with it with no clear or problems. Did you use primer under it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 I used primer under it. Then I completely screwed it up, so I stripped it. Then when I repainted the hood, I used no primer and it came out glass smooth. Then when I repainted the body without primer, It was okay but has fisheyes in it. Maybe there was still paint stripper underneath? I have a funny feeling my Fairlane will never get finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Keep us posted, but do not give up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Read my above post again, the bottom line where it says: Don't give up as you were getting good results before and you Will again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Notarangelo Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 I run my spray cans under hot water till there to the point were they are hot to the touch and the first spray or two I hit on some blank cardboard before I let loose on a model,works everytime, and yes I own a airbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Maybe there was still paint stripper underneath? Could've been. I usually take an old toothbrush and Dawn dishwashing liquid to parts I've stripped after I rinse them just to make sure it's clean. Personally, I primer 90% of the parts of every model I build. The only parts I don't primer are the very smallest. Primer makes a huge difference when it comes to paint time whether you're spraying from a can,air brush or even with a brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Hmm....The only parts I primer are the body, hood, etc. Mainly because I'm too cheap to buy even primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 I run my spray cans under hot water till there to the point were they are hot to the touch and the first spray or two I hit on some blank cardboard before I let loose on a model,works everytime, and yes I own a airbrush. I know guys that are afraid of the can exploding if they warm it too much and I don't blame them. What a mess!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Thanks guys. Nah, they have to be really warm to explode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 A year ago I could paint just fine. Now, my can always seems to run out, and my paint is bad. My first guess is I'm putting it on too thick? This is SERIOUSLY starting to get on my nerves. Hmm....The only parts I primer are the body, hood, etc. Mainly because I'm too cheap to buy even primer. WHOA Andy!!!! $$$$$$$$ I know it does cost a bit.......but if you want killer paint, or even a 1/2 way rat finish follow the #1 rule of any good painter. Do it the same way every time !!! You should use primer....its cheap and the big cans go a long way.....Prime it all...then you will find molding lines or divots quick sand clean dry spray color, dry spray clear, put away and build car..... Reading above some primed some not....it will look like that...different, no matter what paint you use...HOK to Testors... If it used to be good the painter changed something....so you need to think and remember (I can't) or write it down....then you can see what works for you and what doesn't....plan your work and work your plan.... You can get stunning paint with Tamiya or Model Master lacquers without primer... -_- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickRollerLT1 Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Andy, if your ona cheap budget like me, I got some hints that'll help you out! -If you want a good, cheap primer. Go to your local Sears Hardware and look for something called "Quick 'n Easy" Gray primer. This stuff Is awesome!! Drys quick, gos on smooth and doesn't harm the plastic on any applaction. It only costs a $1.69 and is like Tamiya primer and all the other ones, but in a bigger can and costs less than half than of the others I mentioned. -For basic colors, the Wal-Mart/Colorplace paints are really good for basic colors. They have flat black, gloss black, gloss white, flat white, red, blue, a dark green thats really nice, and a few more i'm missing (stay away from their gray primer, nasty stuff!) in 12oz cans for .98! How could you go wrong? They are better quality than testors basic enamals for that matter (which are expensive, and are less than stellar quality) -Krylon, Valspar, Rustoluem, Duplicolor, Tamiya, and the Testors lacquers (different from their enamals - which is a good thing) are good too (don't use their primers on bare styrene- they'll craze plastic), but I find that if you use the cheap paints that work for you for the base colors/primer, than the other brand for the top color not only your saving money but your getting better results. -For Clearing, I strongly reccomend Future floor wax (also called Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine). Can be applied to any serface/paint via airbrush, paint brush, foam brush, q-tips, or sometimes cottonballs. At first, it looks like your brushing on testors clear, but after an hour it dries like you applied a clear coat. It an be applied inside and has a nice, frutty smell, and can be removed with windex or water if it isn't good enough for you. If you're good with clear coats, than I salude you good luck with those because i've had awfull experiences with them due to fogging, crazing, orange peel, and the like. If you need to remove residue or give the body/part a deeper shine, I use good ol' white toothpaste and that does the trick really well. If you polish future with it, you'll get an even deeper, nicer shine. For stripping, just recently I started to use Purple Power ina rubbermade bowl to soak my failled paint jobs for about 2 days to 3 weeks, depending on the type of paint, how many coats were applied, and how old it is. Hope this helps, and good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickRollerLT1 Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 May I say one more thing, warming the cans (to meidum-warm temp) will make a world of difference with paint application. Oh, whatever you do, NEVER use paint thinner to strip you model. I've heard ppl that and had gotten their kit bodys turned to mush! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 Thanks guys, I missed your posts. Richard, I've used the Colorplace black before and I was very pleased with it. Although, I myself prefer lacquers for body. Just depends on the build, really. And the thing about Tamiya primer crazing plastic, I've put Tamiya lacquer primer AND lacquer paint over bare plastic with no problems. But thanks everyone-I'll use all those ideas for my next build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecker388 Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Andy, if your ona cheap budget like me, I got some hints that'll help you out! -If you want a good, cheap primer. Go to your local Sears Hardware and look for something called "Quick 'n Easy" Gray primer. This stuff Is awesome!! Drys quick, gos on smooth and doesn't harm the plastic on any applaction. It only costs a $1.69 and is like Tamiya primer and all the other ones, but in a bigger can and costs less than half than of the others I mentioned. -For basic colors, the Wal-Mart/Colorplace paints are really good for basic colors. They have flat black, gloss black, gloss white, flat white, red, blue, a dark green thats really nice, and a few more i'm missing (stay away from their gray primer, nasty stuff!) in 12oz cans for .98! How could you go wrong? They are better quality than testors basic enamals for that matter (which are expensive, and are less than stellar quality) -Krylon, Valspar, Rustoluem, Duplicolor, Tamiya, and the Testors lacquers (different from their enamals - which is a good thing) are good too (don't use their primers on bare styrene- they'll craze plastic), but I find that if you use the cheap paints that work for you for the base colors/primer, than the other brand for the top color not only your saving money but your getting better results. -For Clearing, I strongly reccomend Future floor wax (also called Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine). Can be applied to any serface/paint via airbrush, paint brush, foam brush, q-tips, or sometimes cottonballs. At first, it looks like your brushing on testors clear, but after an hour it dries like you applied a clear coat. It an be applied inside and has a nice, frutty smell, and can be removed with windex or water if it isn't good enough for you. If you're good with clear coats, than I salude you good luck with those because i've had awfull experiences with them due to fogging, crazing, orange peel, and the like. If you need to remove residue or give the body/part a deeper shine, I use good ol' white toothpaste and that does the trick really well. If you polish future with it, you'll get an even deeper, nicer shine. For stripping, just recently I started to use Purple Power ina rubbermade bowl to soak my failled paint jobs for about 2 days to 3 weeks, depending on the type of paint, how many coats were applied, and how old it is. Hope this helps, and good luck! i had trouble with the paint from Walmart. Sprayed a Dale Earnhardt NASCAR and it had little pits and didn't cover the way i wanted(after two coats)i don't know if anyone else has had trouble with it but I did first time and i'm NEVER using it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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