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New update 04/15/14 new pics. V8 Cabover #1, 352H 110


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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Everyone,

I figured it was time for an update. I have been working on some more of the cab details, like the footwells and the storage compartment doors. I used one of the deck plates that comje in the CMT Freightliner sets to make the perforated metal that forms the floor of the footwell. Should look okay once painted. On the doors, I used some of the framework of the fret to form the hinges, and stick pins, with the heads filed flat, to ensure they were narrower that the .060, some model railroad springs, and some beading clamp tubes to form the spring loaded latches that will keep the doors from flopping around when attached to the cab. They will be covered and some details will be added to simulate the real, cable operated latches. In the first picture are some of the prototype parts I made just to see if my ideas would work. The last picture shows the doors with some details added to the hinges. Thanks for all your encouragement so far, it helps when you are on the 8th or 9th failed concept. Thanks for looking. Mark.

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Edited by purepmd
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Give me a moment to pick my jaw up off the floor................O.K....I'm ready....This is one serious build....I can't believe the detail you've put into this thing.....Just one thing after another to look at on this truck....And it ain't even done....As we used to say in the Marine Corps...."OUTSTANDING!!!!!"

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First, thanks for all the great compliments, I really appreciate them.

Second, Doobie, I found a set of Beading Mini Pliers, used for making beaded jewelry, and I use those to, first fold the metal strip over a piece of steel rod, the same size as the pivot the hinge will ride on. I use straight pins used in sewing. The chrome plating is very smooth for the hinge to move on. Then use the pliers to pinch the fold tight to the rod. Then I remove one side of the metal strip, just below the now circular fold, then finish curling the strip around the rod to form a complete circle. I made a small jig to form the bend in the hinges, so they would have all the same curvature, at least be close enough to work with out binding. In the picture, you can see some early attempts that, when left double layered, were to hard to get a gentle curve worked into them. In the foreground, you can see a very short, single layer, fully rolled hinge.

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It is really not all that difficult, it does take some practice. The hardest aspect is keeping the rolled pivot point at a 90 degree angle to the rest of the hinge. It is very easy to get them a little crooked, but if you leave the pin in the roll, you can straighten them out without colapsing the hinge. As i said, it is not that tough, it took me longer to type this out than it did for me to make one, not counting the dozen or so failures first. lol.

Thank you for your interest,

Mark

Edited by purepmd
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Thank you Tony. Once the door jams are fashioned, the doors are aligned, and attached to the cab, I will make striker plates, with a small detent, for the spring action latches in the doors to catch on. Combine that with a small bump stop and they will be kept in proper alignment with the cab sides. Here you can see the latches in the doors. To bad they will be covered by remaining inner door skin and some photo etched widgets that resemble the 1-1 mechanisms.

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Edited by purepmd
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Doug, you are right, the doors took a good bit of time. Forming the hinges, building thr latches, and getting the 120 degree bevelled edge on the inner panels was about 3 weeks worth of work.

I do not have one of those miniature miter tables they sell in the MicroMark catalog, so I used a 3 sided metal file and a metal straight edge, as the table top, to hand sand the bevelling.

As for the head light surrounds, including the detail on the backside, to be seen when the cab is raised, there are 8 pieces in each of them.

Again,Thanks to everyone for all the comments and views. They provide a great deal of motivation.

Mark.

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Hey Guys, Just a few pictures to show some progress. I enclosed the latches and got the doors mounted to the cab. I used some Model Car Garage throttle linkage parts and bent them up to look like the latches on the 1-1 truck. I have trued the door jams and they are the width of a single sheet of 400 auto body paper. I think that will be enough of a gap that once the primer, paint, and clear coat are applied, they will have a very close, and even spacing.

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Edited by purepmd
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