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Not much to show yet, but I just started today on my '60 Chevrolet pickup. My first order of business to narrow up my AMT Parts Pack '60 Mercury grille to fit the width of the pickup's opening, and to clearance the opening so the grille will nestle back into it. I removed six grille bars per side, and you can see the grille opening modified on one side. When it goes back together, the inner headlights should hide the seams.

60ChevPU01_zps32c77ef9.jpg

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I'm raising the bed floor a bit more than I intend to channel the chassis so that I have room to install hydraulic cylinders above the spring pockets, and for clearance for the rear axle "pumpkin" at full drop. A straight guideline for trimming the sides was made by laying the masking tape edge at the appropriate height, misting a light coat of paint over the surface, and peeling the tape. As you can see, one side has been trimmed, and one is yet to be cut.

60ChevPU03_zps5d9459b2.jpg

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I tacked a few things together to check the stance. Looks like I need to narrow the rear axle just slightly.

60ChevPU04_zps3c4dec87.jpg

Happy wth the height, though.

60ChevPU06_zps0b1eee77.jpg

You can see how far I raised the bed floor to accommodate the channel and rear suspension drop (air bags in the rear, static in the front).

60ChevPU05_zps036c774f.jpg

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I tacked a few things together to check the stance. Looks like I need to narrow the rear axle just slightly.

60ChevPU04_zps3c4dec87.jpg

Happy wth the height, though.

60ChevPU06_zps0b1eee77.jpg

You can see how far I raised the bed floor to accommodate the channel and rear suspension drop (air bags in the rear, static in the front).

60ChevPU05_zps036c774f.jpg

Beautiful, love that stance its just perfect.

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Thanks. Not pictured are the adjustments made to the inner fenderwells, cab floor and back panel, firewall, door panels, radiator and bench seat to accomodate the drop. The front wheels have about 2-1/2 scale inches before they would contact against the tops of the unaltered inner fenders. That's fine by me - bumpstops can keep that from occurring. I only put adjustable suspension in the rear because that's how I prefer my 1:1 customs - as drivers. Adustable suspension up front causes all kinds of alignment/handling/tire wear headaches that aren't worth the hassle to me, and so I'm building this pickup in a similar manner.

The plan is for it to be the tow/push rig for a little Offy-powered vintage dragster. I'm thinking pearl pink/purple/blue fades and scallops for paint with some bright pearl white on the roof and inner bed panels. Speaking of which, i need to build a new front panel for the bed, but want to wait until after I get the wood and stainless all done on the bed floor before I install it. Maybe some wood stake sides on top of the bed sides? We'll see. I'm still trying to figure out the interior scheme.

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  • 1 month later...

It's almost done - just a few finishing touches to go:
60ChevPU12_zpszwd53crx.jpg

I flipped the front bumper, and painted the lower section. Kind of a phony roll pan.
60ChevPU11_zpsrolspspv.jpg

I haven't mounted the bed permanently yet. It still needs exhaust and air suspension plumbing underneath, and the front bed wall is still missing.
60ChevPU09_zpsnkztbx5y.jpg

No engne pics until it moves over to under-glass. I haven't run the radiator and heater hoses yet,
60ChevPU10_zpsvesvnhek.jpg

Edited by Dirty Dave
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Thanks! I painted all the wood by drybrushing and washes with acrylics, topping it off with some Tamiya clear yellow before I sealed it with clear lacquer. After that, I masked it off, painted the inner bed walls, and did the silver rails last, using a paint pen.

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