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ratherbefishin

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  • Scale I Build
    1:25 scale

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    Curt Willocks

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  1. I may have stumbled on to something useful. A cheap “nail art” kit may be helpful in detailing, particularly in interiors. Just briefly tested a couple items but the paint dot applicators seem to work well and the tiny tapes do seem to stick to styrene, even painted styrene. I think the brushes are the cheap one and done version but could be useful for glue applicators. So far, no use for the stickers and sparkly things but, who knows? Anyway, thought this might be of use to some, cheap and available on Amazon.
  2. Like Steve, I made a wash but I used black “chalkboard” craft paint and water. Usually I need two coats over chrome, but it seems to work great with one coat for weathering a motor, chassis or suspension parts. Really brings out detail next to a gloss finish like steel wheels for depth and definition.
  3. Not perfect but serviceable for me. Thanks for all the help folks. Curt
  4. BY GEORGE I THINK WE’VE GOT IT! Thanks to all, hot water and slow gradual progress worked. Might have some seam issues to deal with but no big gaps anymore. I reckon this type of stuff is what this forum is all about, thanks for walking me through it. I really, really appreciate the interest, expertise, patience and wisdom. I drove this car my first two years of college long, long ago and this model is important to me.
  5. David, this might just be the ticket! Seems to be helping a little each time. I’ll continue this very gradual process. THANK YOU! David, there is no mention in the instructions and from what I see, there is no cross member to remove. There was a sprue to be removed but it was on the outer side of one running board. Thanks!
  6. Yes, I did that first, had the same issue and then put in the interior to see if it might make a difference. That’s what I thought initially.
  7. Yes, the body seems fine. But, then again, the fenders look ok to me, given these old eyes, but no flashing is visible anywhere. I am thinking about rubber banding the body to the fenders, then dousing the whole thing in a pot of very hot water for a few seconds and then letting it cool before I take off the rubber bands to see if that might work to force it to fit. Thoughts?
  8. Tried some more sanding, nada. The fenders do have the little protrusions on the top and the body does fit but then jus rises up unless pressed into place. I think I do near some “heat”. So, like a hairdryer? Just hold it in place and apply heat? How do I do this?
  9. Both the body and the fenders look to sit flat. No gaps that I can see. I might just try to take a little material from the drivers side of the running board area, though it feels the same. Whatever it is it’s minute, just enough to not allow it to sit as it should. After work, I’ll check the fit on my 40 ford panel unbuilt, to see if it’s the same. Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming!
  10. I know, that’s why I put the interior tub in. It’s not the interior holding it. The same thing was happening when doing fit checks without the interior. The body will meet the fenders if I press it down but not sure that it will stay after gluing. Any other ideas? This is the kit, anyone else had this issue and how did you correct it?
  11. The body just does not want to nestle into the fenders. Done a little filing at the joint, seems smooth, no high spots. Do I have warped feeders or body? If so, how can I correct it? thanks!
  12. I want to use an acrylic for my topcoat. What primer do you recommend? Thanks, Curt
  13. I bought one of the $15 ish magnifying glasses with a light. Ok for a while but they are heavy on my nose, can’t wear readers underneath them and the mag lense kept falling off. Got a pair of Optivisors, no pressure on my nose, light, fits on my head not my ears so I wear readers underneath them, never missed the light on them. Just tilt them up when I don’t need them and don’t have to find a place to set them down. About $40 bucks and worth every penny.
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