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m408

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About to try my first BMF job. :lol: Some will be on paint with Future coat. Some will be on "as is" kit plastic. All tips are appreciated. :lol:

1) Use a small piece of balsawood to burnish the foil before you trim it;

2) Always use a new #11 blade (Don't skimp on this step);

3) Burnish it again with lightly balsawood after you've trimmed it;

4) If you need to do any more trimming, use a small, sharp toothpick to carefully remove the excess;

5) Sit back and admire your handywork!!

Good luck, Milt!!

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1) Use a small piece of balsawood to burnish the foil before you trim it;

2) Always use a new #11 blade (Don't skimp on this step);

3) Burnish it again with lightly balsawood after you've trimmed it;

4) If you need to do any more trimming, use a small, sharp toothpick to carefully remove the excess;

5) Sit back and admire your handywork!!

Good luck, Milt!!

I've seen it used on lettering also. Any special tips for that?

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I've seen it used on lettering also. Any special tips for that?

For lettering, it's usually applied BEFORE the model or the part is painted. The you lightly sand or polish the paint off of the tops of the letters, exposing the BMF. It can be difficult to do, but looks great when done well.

Check out how Marcos Cruz did it on his '59 Impala: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10323

Good luck, Milt!!

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Raul pretty much nailed it.

a couple of addition tips I found helpful.

Q-tips also work well for burnishing down BMF

When doing emblems, I use ISO when the paint is still soft, NOT WET, but soft. It is really easy to sand right through BMF. If that happens you're done, and you will have to start over.

A new sharp #11 is a must, I will go through 2-3 blades on a single body. I save them because they are still plenty sharp for other things.

I also seal BMF with Future so it doesn't come off while handeling, because it will if you don't

Edited by CAL
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My method for emblems is to apply after the paint is hard, then trimming by cutting against the side of the emblem with the blade flat against the body as opposed to cutting down into the paint. Then I infill the openings with body color instead of trying to cut the inside of the letters away. I've found that round and flat toothpicks work great for burnishing into tight areas, I shape the pick with sandpaper to suit my application. I do the same with q-tips, sometimes cutting the stick into a tool. To mash the foil into a recess, take a square of toilet paper, fold it until it's about a 1/4in thick and wet it. put the wad over the foil and press it in as hard as the part will allow and then work what is left with the toothpicks. The number 1 tip I can offer is to cut a piece of cardstock the same size as the BMF sheet and keep it in the envelope with the foil. This keeps it from flexing and developing fractures in the foil. You can now just slide the foil out a few inches and use the cardstock as a cutting board.

The weight of a fresh blade is enough pressure to cut. I prefer the original style as the "shiny" foil is stiffer and tends to curl when taken off of the liner. BMF is one of the products that changed modeling for me in the early 80's, I love the stuff. I've been using it to simulate aluminum heads too, even wierd ones like the 409 and big block Fords.

Edited by samdiego
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Count me in as another Q-Tip fan; they are my preferred burnishing tool. I do, however, use them very little before tossing & replacing them because they tend to leave fuzz behind once they get softened up.

A fresh #11 is another thing I agree with 100%. Use a fresh blade each time, and it's easier to avoid the dreaded blade 'chatter' and serrated-looking edges.

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Actually the best way I've found to BMF a model is to get someone else who's really good at it to do it for me!! :P:lol:

No muss, no fuss and I don't need to spend a lot of money on an extensive mental therapy session when it's done! :P

Don't be blaming BMF as the cause for you needing mental therapy... :blink::lol::P:o

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Count me in as another Q-Tip fan; they are my preferred burnishing tool. I do, however, use them very little before tossing & replacing them because they tend to leave fuzz behind once they get softened up.

A fresh #11 is another thing I agree with 100%. Use a fresh blade each time, and it's easier to avoid the dreaded blade 'chatter' and serrated-looking edges.

I agree on the Q-tips. Sometimes you spend more time removing fuzz than burnishing and trimming the foil. :D I sharpen the blade instead of changing it though, a few strokes on some wet-or-dry paper is usually enough to keep it nice and sharp.

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heres what i do

rollinoldskool taught me this

cut a peace a 1/2 again bibber or 2 times bigger

brus the bmf down wit h q tip

lay all of the foil evenly (even the excess)

trim off the excess

save the excess for small things

hit he model with a clear coat

and then admire the work you did

hope i helped you out bro

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Don't be blaming BMF as the cause for you needing mental therapy... :blink::lol:;):P

Yeah...you're right...it's that wacky woman that seems to want to talk to us whenever we meet for lunch at the pizza place and she's there...she's spooky... :blink:

She makes me want to wear a big shirt with my wife's picture on it with a caption that reads "Leave him alone...he's married and has no money!!" :lol: ...not that I'm sure she can read... :blink:

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Yeah...you're right...it's that wacky woman that seems to want to talk to us whenever we meet for lunch at the pizza place and she's there...she's spooky... :blink:

She makes me want to wear a big shirt with my wife's picture on it with a caption that reads "Leave him alone...he's married and has no money!!" ;) ...not that I'm sure she can read... :blink:

:lol: No wacky women going to be at the 20th get together. Just a few girls from the local Hooters, looking for some "modeling" tips. :lol: Yeh, right, late April fool. :P

Edited by m408
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:mellow: No wacky women going to be at the 20th get together. Just a few girls from the local Hooters, looking for some "modeling" tips. :lol: Yeh, right, late April fool. ;)

Oh Milt...You know, there's still time to round up a couple of them Hooter's girls...I'm sure that they can give us some real "pointers" to consider! :lol:

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Actually the best way I've found to BMF a model is to get someone else who's really good at it to do it for me!! :mellow::lol:

No muss, no fuss and I don't need to spend a lot of money on an extensive mental therapy session when it's done! ;)

You might want to watch it Raul, I am about to send you this Studebaker Commander to BMF, Its annoying the you know what out of me. :lol:

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You might want to watch it Raul, I am about to send you this Studebaker Commander to BMF, Its annoying the you know what out of me. :mellow:

Yeah...but then I'd send it to my friend, Al Monthei. There is no one I know that can BMF as good as he does. That guy can BMF a scale football and not have any wrinkles or cut lines visible when he's done!! Amazing!!

Edited by Raul_Perez
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Yeah...but then I'd send it to my friend, Al Monthei. There is no one I know that can BMF as good as he does. That guy can BMF a scale football and not have any wrinkles or cut lines visible when he's done!! Amazing!!

Then lets just cut the middle man then :mellow:

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Yeah..."teach me, teach me!!" :lol::lol::lol:

I'll leave it at that...this is a family rated forum... :P

haha

i know what you mean bro

the ones around here are very very hot

and are talited in certain fields such as..............................................................................

.delivering good food of course LOL

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  • 3 weeks later...

I use a surgical scalpel to trim the BMF once it's been placed and burnished with a Q-Tip; the scalpel blade is a lot subtler and sharper than an X-Acto blade and you get a much cleaner edge. I use a toothpick to (VERY GENTLY) remove any excess after trimming.

I also use toothpicks to burnish down the foil at the edges of very thin pieces (like windshield frames or chrome spears).

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