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dusting models, any tips?


allecb

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my models are getting a bit dusty, and i dont have any nifty glass covers or anything so dust wont get into them... i was thinking about getting a can of that compressed air, that people often use for computers and stuff like that..has anyone used it before? i just want to make sure it wont be harmful to my models, like ruin the paint or something.

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Interesting question. I bypass having to dust my models by simply keeping each one (at least those I really love and am most proud of) in plexiglass display cases, you know the kind you can get for around 5-9 dollars. I have models that are almost 10-15 years old and they look as new as the day I finished them.

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For that kind of money Dr. Cranky, you could go to Home Depot or Lowe's and purchase some clear plexiglas sheet and cut to size for a particular build. To hold it together, use clear silicone on the inside corners. Make the top last, align with the sides, and silicone it in place. The use of blue masking tape is highly recommended. I should have mentioned first to get a piece of wood to use as a base. MAybe I should try my hand at a tutorial on this subject?

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As a photographer..(old school..film) go and google "staticmaster"

it is a fine brush designed to remove dust and static electricity from film, It uses a isotope and is available in a couple of sizes. I use this in all my large format work..4" x5" and larger..most good darkroom suppliers carry them. Yes they do work...but not cheep

http://www.amstat.com/solutions/staticmaster.html

http://www.amazon.com/Static-Master-Static-Master-Brush-quot/dp/B0000AE67S

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A lot of my models withstand a very careful washing. I use an old makeup brush, diluted carwash solution and the barest trickle of warm water. VERY carefully. Keep a strainer in the drain, too. If done right it gets all of the dirt and won't disturb Krystal Klear adhered parts

Edited by samdiego
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Glass cases? Maaybe heavy but more duable than plexiglass in that the glass won't scratch. I think I'll wait to see the article.

When will that January issue be coming out? Aren't we supposed to get the December issue first?

Edited by crazyjim
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Interesting question. I bypass having to dust my models by simply keeping each one (at least those I really love and am most proud of) in plexiglass display cases, you know the kind you can get for around 5-9 dollars. I have models that are almost 10-15 years old and they look as new as the day I finished them.

where can i find plexiglass display cases? i dont want to make my own, as im not very creative with my hands (ok i know i build models lol)

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How to make glass display cases coming in the January issue.

Glass cases? Maaybe heavy but more duable than plexiglass in that the glass won't scratch. I think I'll wait to see the article.

When will that January issue be coming out? Aren't we supposed to get the December issue first?

I suspect when it snows in Hawaii.........:blink: :blink: :blink:

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Compressed air can freeze things real quick. I don't think I would use it on a build. Computer keyboards, yes.

It'a already snowed in Hawaii - last week Florida was the only state of the 50 that didn't have snow on the ground. And leave Gregg alone - he's supposed to be mailing my MCM T-shirt.

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Compressed air can freeze things real quick. I don't think I would use it on a build. Computer keyboards, yes.

It'a already snowed in Hawaii - last week Florida was the only state of the 50 that didn't have snow on the ground. And leave Gregg alone - he's supposed to be mailing my MCM T-shirt.

"its in the mail" :D:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :lol:

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where can i find plexiglass display cases? i dont want to make my own, as im not very creative with my hands (ok i know i build models lol)

AMT and Lindberg also make nice display cases, as does Pioneer Plastics. My favorite, though, are still the Jo-Han Sho-Cases. They're interlocking, sized well and keep the model clean. They turn up on e-Bay now and then, periodically, I've heard of people still coming across them at hobby shops, too. Too bad Okey didn't put those back into production- he almost could've rebuilt Jo-Han simply on the sales of the cases.

Regarding the Static Master brush- I asked my dad about them, and he seconded that as being a good choice for dusting models (he does slide film and medium-format photography, too.) He also said that the Amazon store Mike linked to seemed a bit high price-wise, and strongly recommended shopping around.

There are several reputable photography suppliers in the Greater Boston area that will ship nationally; many of them have very competitive prices. Those listed below have great service, too.

Recommended by us are:

E.P. Levine, Waltham, Ma.

Calumet Photo, Cambridge, Ma.

Zeff Photo Supply, Belmont, Ma.

Hunt Photo & Video, Malden, Ma.

Wheaton Camera, Worcester, Ma.

Smaller shops that are still good:

Scorby Camera, Neeham, Ma.

Noble's Camera, Hingham and Cohasset, Ma. (friends with the owner.)

K. Ellis Photo, Dartmouth, Ma. (Excellent prices, very good service.)

Charlie Larkin

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  • 1 month later...

I use a large make-up brush to dust them, but then again, I keep my models and diecast in a converted entertainment center that's reasonably air-tight.

We started with an oak entertainment center, and put white MDF on the back. Then, my dad and I made an oak frame with routed channels for sliding glass doors, and then added glass shelves. We also added puck lights. The picture below is about 5 years old, but currently, there are over 500 diecast, and half a dozen plastic models on display, and they've all been there for 10 years with little/no dust accumulation (you can also see the illumination provided by the puck lights.

displaycase_04.jpg

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Staticmaster brushes cost $90 and up. The polonium will lose its effect over time, so it's necessary to replace the cartridge every year or so. I regret that I sold mine when I sold my vinyl record collection.

(A few years ago, the FSB - formerly known as the KGB - used polonium to assassinate a former agent. They were feeding the guy the stuff. So... eating your Staticmaster is not a good idea.)

At a local camera store, I found a substitute anti-static brush that works pretty well. I think it cost about $12. It's about 2" long and 3/4" wide. It doesn't have a brand name, but "SW-020" is imprinted on the end of the black handle.

When I'm spray painting something, I try to remember to brush it first. That will reduce the number of dust specks that land on the part before the paint does. Unfortunately, that's a step I often forget.

Edited by Ddms
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