rust & weathering beginner kit?

[DrewCfromSC]

Just starting to begin my try at rusty or weathered model. Have not bought a thing.....................yet. Is their a basic kit avalible to buy to try out. Thanks in advance for your advise! Drew from S.C.

[VW Dave]

For actual 'rotting' metal in scale, a ball-shaped milling bit in my Dremel is the real workhorse; I thin the body from the inside until it almost bubbles through (just like real NY rust ). I use a small dental-style pick for opening small pinholes up once the material is thin enough.

For paint and surface weathering, I do it 'on the cheap.' My set of chalk pastels was $7 with a 50% off coupon from Michaels, and the makeup brush set came from a local dollar store. My 'Joe Dirt' Charger was done using just Testors DullCote and pastels, no rotting out was in order:

For rust, I always say nothing looks more like rust than the real thing. Sophisticated Finishes' two-part system works very well for me:

[Tradeshowjoe]

check out this thread:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32489

don't buy a thing (Uunless you need rust color paint and hairspray). And I agree the "Sophisticated Finish" is a great product as well.

[DrewCfromSC]

]

For rust, I always say nothing looks more like rust than the real thing. Sophisticated Finishes' two-part system works very well for me:

Very cool VW. Now thats what im going to try for. Is that ametal or diecast to begin with or plastic? I have a few diecast that im going to expirement with soon as it cools off a bit here. Thanks for sharing this! Drew

don't buy a thing (Uunless you need rust color paint and hairspray). And I agree the "Sophisticated Finish" is a great product as well.

Thanks for the reply! I will check it out. Drew

[VW Dave]

Very cool VW. Now thats what im going to try for. Is that ametal or diecast to begin with or plastic?

Drew - Thanks for the kind words. The Beetle is indeed plastic, which some folks have had a hard time believing until I hand them the model; it started out as a Gunze-Sangyo kit:

[DrewCfromSC]

Drew - Thanks for the kind words. The Beetle is indeed plastic, which some folks have had a hard time believing until I hand them the model; it started out as a Gunze-Sangyo kit:

Very cool 1 I have sent you a pm. Thanks for sharing this tip!

[John E. Bowers Jr.]

I must be doing something wrong while using the Sophisticated Finishes. can't get the heavily rusted effect.

[Agent G]

I must be doing something wrong while using the Sophisticated Finishes. can't get the heavily rusted effect.

Me either!

G

[Guest JamesDE]

I use acrylic paints and a cosmetic sponge for most of mine, but the Chevelle Wagon was done using enamel paints... Flat Red, Yellow, and Rust, and a little flat black...

[DrewCfromSC]

Looks very realsitic!

Drew

[brett]

Wow James they look great especially the bumpers, something thats very hard to get right. Heres a couple of my attempts, the 53 and 55 tow truck using railroading chalks and the 64 pickup using some of the wifes eyeshadow makeup.

[Smart-Resins]

I use Doctor Ben's instant rust and instant age found on Ebay. Very easy to use! I did not know what I was doing, got this stuff used it and I still dont know what I am doing! LOL. But heres how good the stuff works! For the "pits" I Painted on black primer and sprinkled on table salt and let dry. Then I painted on the green and let dry. Then I scraped off the table salt and rusted. I did all of the rusting in maybe a hour mack on the whole model!

[Guest JamesDE]

Thanks Brett. Yes, the bumpers are the trickiest to do right. You got some nice rusted rides also...

[deathskull59]

hey thats funny i got that 50 merc also im gunna make mine in to wild custom though i need plastic putty & stuff to repair all of the cracks and broken peaces.

[PeterC(MrMondeo)]

Hi i found this stuff , its from a company in the uk , im gonna get some and try it , what you guys think ?

http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Tools-$4-Materials/Scenery/Deluxe-Materials-Scenic-Rust.ice

it actualy uses iron filings and an accelerator to make the filings rust , cant get much more realistic rust than that can ya lol

Edited August 28, 2010 by MrMondeo

[Dr. Cranky]

Wow,some great weathering examples. Thanks for sharing.

[Models by Bear]

Very nice builds Just wanted to add mine first time I tried weathering

[DrewCfromSC]

Very nice builds Just wanted to add mine first time I tried weathering

Very good! What products did you use? Thanks for sharing.

Drew C. from S.C.

[Models by Bear]

Very good! What products did you use? Thanks for sharing.

Drew C. from S.C.

Thank you. I primed the car with Brown primer first. Then I brushed on "Sophisticated Finishes Iron Metalic Surfacer". I allowed that to dry for 24 hours, then I used "Sophisticated Finishes Rust Antiquing Solution". I placed it in a ziplock bag and left it for 12 hours while it cured. Then I allowed it to air dry. Then I repeated the rust process in various spots until I acheived the look I wanted.

[VW Dave]

I brushed on "Sophisticated Finishes Iron Metalic Surfacer". I allowed that to dry for 24 hours, then I used "Sophisticated Finishes Rust Antiquing Solution".

Those are the 2 parts of the same "Instant Rust" set I mentioned above; I'm guessing you got them separately, which gives you bigger bottles than the set does.

That's impressive for your first attempt at weathering....my first was long ago, and far from that good.

Edited September 7, 2010 by VW Dave

[raymanz]

Have any of you guys tried REAL RUST washes? Some Real rust finely ground up and some water does great in a pinch. Various stages of rust really helps too.I've used the sopisticated system and have had great results with it also.I can't post pics here because I don't have a Fotki or photobucket account-But you can see some of my builds @ HUBGARAGE.com in Ray'sRadicalMind Garage there or on SAE's photo shots. Good Luck VwDave

[Kodiak Island Modeler]

Dave is right about using the round ball on the Dremel from the inside. For the weathering, I use water based craft paints from Wal Mart. I also take the kindergarten approach. I dry brush the paint on, and then take my fingers to blend it on. For gritty rust, I use silica sand mixed in with the paint.

Remember that weathering happens differently as to how it happens. Think about what your vehicles represent. Notice that the weathering on the static cars happens in and up and down Pattern, while vehicles in motion will show display that.

[Models by Bear]

Those are the 2 parts of the same "Instant Rust" set I mentioned above; I'm guessing you got them separately, which gives you bigger bottles than the set does.

That's impressive for your first attempt at weathering....my first was long ago, and far from that good.

Thank you very much for the compliment. Yes, I did get the big bottles separatly because I couldn't find them in a set. But, on the bright side, I have more product to do other projects.

[VW Dave]

I must be doing something wrong while using the Sophisticated Finishes. can't get the heavily rusted effect.

It's possible you didn't shake the base paint enough(to stir up the metal content), or applied the top solution too early. I try to apply the base and top finishes a day apart, or even more. 'Random reapplication' of the top solution, which was mentioned in a previous reply, is another way to get good results. Real rust is anything but uniform.

I've gotten good results using a 1" foam brush to apply the base paint, using the technique called stippling; it leaves a light amount of material(with a bit of texture), and no brush strokes...kinda like drybrushing, but without the side-to-side motion of actual 'brushing.' I've also dry-sanded the rust with 700 grit paper to tone it down, and give a more realistic patina finish. I used the foam brush stippling method and dry-sanding on my Charger's front fenders:

[Romell R]

No rust but there is a nice side swipe on this car with dents and damage

Edited September 25, 2010 by Aftashox