Mr. Moparman Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 (edited) I am working on my '70 Superbird, and was wondering what I could do to make the battery better. Thanks! Edited September 5, 2011 by Mississippi Resins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Just typical battery detailing here ... paint caps proper color, add PE cable ends and add decals representing the manufacture. Some corrosion would be appropriate also if it's a daily driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Add battery cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pr8headed Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 I found this idea the other day hope it helps. http://modeltech.tripod.com/csbatt.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longbox55 Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 (edited) When adding cables, do some research on the 1:1 on how they are routed, especially on where they connect. Generally, the Positive cable will go from the battery terminal to the starter solenoid (GM and most late models)or to the starter relay ('60-'80s Fords as well as '60s MoPars). The Negative will usually connect to the engine block, though sometimes they will attach to the accessory mounting brackets. Again, this will vary. Also, you'll want to verify what BCI group battery a given vehicle takes, as the post configurations will vary by group size. Another thing to keep in mind, especially if you're building pre-'56 vehicles with 6 volt batteries, many of them were also positive ground. They were hooked up reverse of what a modern 12 volt negative ground system is. Fords through '55 6 volt and the '56 Fords with 12 volt were this way, as were GMC 6 volt trucks through '57. One more thing, don't assume that the Positive cable should be red and the Negative should be black. Most oem cables were black on both, and on many older vehicles, they used a braided strap for the ground instead of a cable. Even on late models, only the cover for the terminal end itself is color coded. Edited September 6, 2011 by Longbox55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Well, I have used Detail Master's Battery Hardware set, that's great. I usually build the bracket from scratch, or then I use one from that hardware set. There's only one type of bracket on the set, so sometimes it needs to be scratchbuilt. Then of course painting the details, and photo etch cable clamps. It works fine, here is a picture of '70 Super Bee's battery which is detailed with that hardware set, and some scratchbuilt parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 One thought...know what the correct battery is...IE...6v had 3 caps, 12v had 6 caps....I even have a few 5 cap batteries...never saw one of those in 1:1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keck Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 .......on many older vehicles, they used a braided strap for the ground instead of a cable. Electronic supply stores sell wicking used to suck up excess solder. It is braided copper and comes in various sizes - perfect for the ground strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Here's one I made a while back, (just stumbled on it by clicking he wrong button...), the labels really help a lot I think. http://www.modelcars...hp?showtopic=94 Proper cable ends don't hurt either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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