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What type and brand of rattle can primer do you use?


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A few years ago, I bought a can of Krylon Rust Preventative gray primer for a model that I was building.

That primer had stunning coverage. it laid down flat, even coverage, easy to control, and needed almost no sanding. I can't find that exact primer anywhere. I called Krylon, and the only place that stocks it is a 50 mile round trip from my home.

I've been to about 15 places to look at primer....there are so many choices!!!

I am working against a deadline with this model, and need to pick a primer.

What brand do you use? What type of gray do you use? Sandable, Filling?

Thanks in advance!!!.

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Jeff,

Everyone has their favorites. I swear by Tamiya Fine White Surface Primer and Duplicolor Primers. All are readily available. If you have a Hobby Lobby near you, using the 40% off coupon can get the Tamiya pretty inexpensively. I know a lot of guys like Plastikote primer. Many Carquest Auto Parts stores still carry it. Good luck!

David

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I've been usin' Tamiya Fine Surface Primer(white) lately and really likin' it. It goes on very thin and smooth. The least amount of primer, color coats, and clears will give you a great paint job and not hide the details such as door handles, scripts, and body trim including all your glass surroundings.

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Being a 1:1 Custom Painter I don't use any modeling paint because ( I've tried them all) they have to much plastisizers and not enough filler in their formulas for my taste. I am used to having primers powder up nice and not clog the sand paper when I block sand dry. The model paints just don't do what I want them to do because of the high content of plastiziers.

I have found a few rattle can products that perform like 1:1 and can be found at NAPA under the Martin Senior Brand. They are Lacquer based true primer surfacers with a fan spray head and come in 15 oz cans for $12.99 they are # 7283 Red Primer Surfacer, 7284 Hot Rod Grey (it's really black) and they have a lite grey which I don't have the # for.

These lay on so nice, dry fast and sand like 1:1. No reaction to top coats!!!!

Do yourself a favor and step back from the model paint primers!!! You and your builds will Thank You for it!!!!!

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Thanks James (jwrass) for the heads-up on the Martin Senour primers. I paint 1:1 high-end stuff too, and I've noticed the same problems with most of the rattle-can primers you mention. Even Duplicolor tends to clog the paper, even if wet-sanded. I've been compensating just fine, but I'll definitely give the NAPA primers a try.

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I have found a few rattle can products that perform like 1:1 and can be found at NAPA under the Martin Senior Brand. They are Lacquer based true primer surfacers with a fan spray head and come in 15 oz cans for $12.99 they are # 7283 Red Primer Surfacer, 7284 Hot Rod Grey (it's really black) and they have a lite grey which I don't have the # for.

Thanks for a nice tip. Sounds ideal for guide coating.

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Being a 1:1 Custom Painter I don't use any modeling paint because ( I've tried them all) they have to much plastisizers and not enough filler in their formulas for my taste. I am used to having primers powder up nice and not clog the sand paper when I block sand dry. The model paints just don't do what I want them to do because of the high content of plastiziers.

I have found a few rattle can products that perform like 1:1 and can be found at NAPA under the Martin Senior Brand. They are Lacquer based true primer surfacers with a fan spray head and come in 15 oz cans for $12.99 they are # 7283 Red Primer Surfacer, 7284 Hot Rod Grey (it's really black) and they have a lite grey which I don't have the # for.

These lay on so nice, dry fast and sand like 1:1. No reaction to top coats!!!!

Do yourself a favor and step back from the model paint primers!!! You and your builds will Thank You for it!!!!!

If covering major rework maybe so, but there shouldn't be a consistent need to have such a high build primer that block sands off, in sheets of powder for use on scale plastic models.containg fine engraving.

I typically use primer to help detect minute flaws and provide a good base for following colors.

Edited by scalenut
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Bill: I follow many of your posts and you give great advice!!!!! Being a 1:1 guy you know how frustrating paper loading, swelling, etc etc is. You also know if anything is going to go south on 1:1 or models the % rate favors paint. I'm really glad you chimed in on this one! Sometimes we all find change hard, I would say a great majority of modelers don't know their are alternatives to them when it comes to paint and primers because they have not been exposed to them. Geez the last thing I would want to do is recommend a product that didn't perform and get all kinds of hate mail, My goal is to help not hurt. I understand that some may try it and not like it and go back to what they were using and I'm ok with that. All I know is it works for me, and like you I have been doing 1:1 for a long time.

Cato: The # on the lite grey is 7285.

Andy: These products are not a two part high build primer in the sense you may be thinking, they are not any higher build than any of the modeling or big box primers. They contain less plastiziers than the modeling or big box products that's why they perform better!!! I never mentioned sheets of powder in my post, all primers produce powder! it's a relative term. Film thickness is controlled by the hand pulling the trigger and the number of coats not the product. i.e. if I'm 12" from the subject not much product is going stick to it. If I'm 3" from the subject very much product will stick to it. It's all in the technique!

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I would think that there's a big difference in painting a 1:1 car and painting a plastic model car. The 1:1 car paint needs to be more durable as it is exposed to the outside elements, where the model car is not. Seems like you're mixing apples & oranges when you compare the two.

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A few years ago, I bought a can of Krylon Rust Preventative gray primer for a model that I was building.

That primer had stunning coverage. it laid down flat, even coverage, easy to control, and needed almost no sanding. I can't find that exact primer anywhere...

Have you tried this?

http://www.google.com/#q=Krylon+Rust+Preventative+gray+primer&safe=off&tbm=shop

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Nick. You are right on with regards to durability. Durability is not the issue!!!! it's the process. The mechanics are the same only on a smaller scale. Many use the Airbrush for modeling as I do with custom paint. Airbrushes were not designed for custom painting or modeling, they were designed for photo retouching, photo colorization & Technical art rendering. The Weirdo T Shirts of the Fifties and Sixties hijacked the airbrush and it's used now in many art forms including modeling.

On a daily basis we try to replicate 1:1 with braided lines, wire, photo etch yada yada.( I guess that would be a Apples to Oranges too) If a 1:1 product gives you better results with less hassle why wouldn't you use it ? I don't own a NAPA store or get any $$$$$$ for my views on primer and paint. I'm just trying to make life easier based on my experience in the painting process. It's up to the individual to use what they want and what works for them. I can't make anyone change. I'm merely trying to help here not harm. Respectfully jwrass

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I would think that there's a big difference in painting a 1:1 car and painting a plastic model car... Seems like you're mixing apples & oranges when you compare the two...

I'd have to respectfully disagree.

In MY experience, painting a model car is exactly like painting a 1:1 car, only smaller. Virtually EVERYTHING I've learned over many years of painting the real ones has translated to painting models. No, it's not the "same"...film thicknesses are much less, sanding grits are much finer, etc....but the PROCESS and the THOUGHT required to get outstanding results are, for me, absolutely identical.

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