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2005 Mustang Buildup Update! Interior pics! 12/09/06


MrObsessive

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Hey guys, I tried that same clear since I saw Bill's 59 Buick and it really works great, I thinned it a bit with Tamiyas thinner on an extra hood I had lying around my parts box and like he says in dries rock hard but you have to make sure you give it plenty of time to dry, it is slow drying......Thanks for the advice Bill, I will use it some day on a model.....

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http://public.fotki.com/mjcole/central_pa_...ober/cruz1.html Hey Bill, this is a picture of mine, don't think you have seen it yet. I painted mine with HOK Lime Gold and Odds and Ends clear from Wal-mart, wet sanded and polished. Did not have any issues with the body while painting but then again I have never had any issues while using my favorite Floquil primer :wink: Pegasus rims and tires are the choice for its shoes and of course I lowered it a little more than usual for the ground hugging effect. Hope you like it and just to let you know I am happy that you are taking a little more time to build your models a little quicker for our enjoyment, I mean, I love to see those really detailed models of yours but brother I can assure you we will have more fun seeing more of your models on the tables :D Hope to see you at our next get together......
House of Kolors Lime Gold..............
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  • 2 weeks later...

This week I needed to focus on the wheels...............the stance problem was killing me as I've heard others complain about it, so I figured I might as well get started. I first stripped all the wheels with Easy-Off (Yellow can!!) which took off all the chrome and the undercoat they use to plate at the model companies.

The wheels I used are the custom wheels out of Revell's '59 Corvette kit. These I thought most closely replicate the "Bullitt" wheels I wanted for this Mustang.....................Wheels Revell should've included in the kit! :D

I could've left the chrome alone...............but that would have been just too bright for my tastes and 1:1 2005 Mustangs don't really have super shiny wheels to begin with. At least for this wheel type.

PB300814-vi.jpg

After the chrome was stripped I sprayed a coat of Alclad's black lacquer on each of the wheels. The trick here is to get a very smooth coat on each wheel to achieve the desired effect of the final chrome spray.

The smoother the undercoat, the better (and more realistic) finish you'll have. As you can see here, only a few mist coats are needed to get the results as shown. Don't overdo it..............or you'll get a flat aluminum look to your wheels.

PB300812-vi.jpg

After the chrome was dried sufficiently, I brush painted with Tamiya Gunmetal acrylic the spokes as shown here. Once again careful painting and a steady hand is needed so as to not run the paint on the surrounding rim.

The wheels were then shoehorned into the kit tires...........one thing I noticed is that the wheels are actually two different sizes for front and rear. Once mounted though the difference is negligible.

PC010815-vi.jpg

When I originally was dry fitting the wheels, they seem to stick out too far from the wheelwells of the car...........a fix was in order! Note the superglue I had to put around the bead of the wheels to keep them in place........:)

PC040816-vi.jpg

I got out the dremel tool and ground away at the wheel center to get rid of that offset.......this cured the problem of them sticking out too far.

PC040818-vi.jpg

I used the metal "pins" that were in the kit and tried to center them in the wheels as much as possible.................these were then epoxied into place.

PC040820-vi.jpg

Okay! Here is the result of all the work! Not my usual "studio shot"......(I'll save that for when the model is totally done) just wanted to get a glimpse of how the model should sit once everything is said and done.

I did tweak the front and rear suspension by shaving 1/32" or so of plastic off the front springs and then bending (carefully!) the front suspension arms to ensure straightness. The rear didn't need much work........just shaved the springs for the rear slightly to get it to sit lower.

Pc060821-vi.jpg

Pc060822-vi.jpg

Side profile................Yes I will get back to the '55 Ford in the background sometime! :)

Pc060824-vi.jpg

So far so good from all angles.......the proof of the pudding will be once I get the interior in and the other fittings such as headlights, etc......

Pc060825-vi.jpg

One caveat about using Alcad...............I did notice some rubbing off of the chrome when trying to get the wheels into the tires. Interesting, because years ago this stuff was bulletproof, but then disappeared from the market for awhile.

Seems as though when it returned the formula was changed or something. :?

Anyway, a lot of care needs to be used when trying Alclad, and no, I would NOT recommend clearcoating the chrome (or any other of their finishes) as it will reduce the effect of the color.

The weekend's here so now I can concentrate on the interior..........hopefully I can get this all done in time for next weekend's MAMA Christmas party. :wink: :)

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!

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Am I confused or what? You guys are saying to spray the bare plastic with Future floor wax before painting ? And the paint will stick to the wax ? This defies logic when I am told to wear gloves when handling bare bodies to keep body oils from contaminating the surface ? Am I still in the twentieth century? Where's Kansas Toto ?

Bob :?:

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Am I confused or what? You guys are saying to spray the bare plastic with Future floor wax before painting ? And the paint will stick to the wax ? This defies logic when I am told to wear gloves when handling bare bodies to keep body oils from contaminating the surface ? Am I still in the twentieth century? Where's Kansas Toto ?

Bob :?:

Bob...Future is an acrylic finish, not wax. It sticks to most everything, and most everything sticks to it, especially paint (you should see how well overspray sticks to the Futured tiles in my workshop!)

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Am I confused or what? You guys are saying to spray the bare plastic with Future floor wax before painting ? And the paint will stick to the wax ? This defies logic when I am told to wear gloves when handling bare bodies to keep body oils from contaminating the surface ? Am I still in the twentieth century? Where's Kansas Toto ?

Bob :?:

Hi Bob!

Yes, I've handled the body a LOT since the paint has cured......not to mention the hours rubbing out the clearcoat to get the finish you see-----and the paint has not rubbed off the Future. I highly recommend it to anyone who may not be familiar (or doesn't want the trouble) of mixing up BIN to seal Revell's newest plastic.

This is especially needed if you're going to use automotive paint as I used here.

Another thing about Future is that it will seal the plastic from bleed through when painting over that stupid molded in yellow or red plastic. :x

And if you're doing some bodywork you want to seal..........this stuff's great too! The military guys have been using it for years! :D

It also makes great water for dioramas! :wink:

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Very nice work on that Mustang Bill , stripes and wheels look super....I know this has probably been asked but I'm old an slow and getting older an slower, do you shoot the Future on bare plastic straight up or is there a blend your using? Thanks.........

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In addition to Ken's question, I have another. Does the future hold up to any type of paint going over it? On my current build I'm going to use Tamiya primers. The Tamiya won't attack the Future, will it?

I'll jump in with my experience, namely that most paints except the hottest lacquers will not affect Future.

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Ken,

I airbrushed the Future right onto the bare plastic..............you don't have to thin it since it is quite thin right out of the bottle. I like to wait a couple hours or maybe overnight for it to dry and then take 600 grit sandpaper and very lightly sand out any airbubbles that might form.

Steve,

I've not tried Tamiya's paints over Future.....all the paints I have used were acrylic enamels, such as Dupont.

Here's a couple pics of a '55 T-Bird I built back in '99............this was Monogram's '56 I converted to a '55 and molded in that terrible red plastic! Looking at the car, you'd find it hard to believe it was molded in that color. I shot the Future on the bare plastic first and then primered it.

tbirdfront-vi.jpg

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Like anything..............I would test it on something scrap to see how it'll react.

Hope this helps! :)

P.S. I ran across this website about how a military guy uses Future.......I think you'll find it interesting------ click HERE to check it out!

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The interior is the next and last major thing to do. I started with flocking the floor..........I like to do this square by square as the paint dries kinda fast. I used Tamiya flat black as a base (water based acrylic).

Pc090827-vi.jpg

The dash was next on the agenda. Revell's instructions tell you to put the clear lens in place and then put the decal on the clear lens. This doesn't make sense because the adhesive is on the wrong side............

Pc090830-vi.jpg

What I did was dip the decal in water as usual, but then laid the decal on the lens and then brushed it with Tamiya clear X-22. This helped flatten out the decal and also made it adhere to the lens without any distortion.

PC090831-vi.jpg

The seats, dash, side panels, and console, were painted with Testors Acryl Aircraft Black. Today's black interiors are not a pure black, but kind of a charcoal color. This stuff is great to get that effect!

PC090832-vi.jpg

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Well guys and gals that'll be the last update.............It's the little details that need done now, painting the window trim and headliner, putting in the head and taillights, etc........

Keep an eye on the "Under Glass" column as I'm gonna try to get this one done before next Saturday (meeting day). :wink:

Stay tuned!

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The dash was next on the agenda. Revell's instructions tell you to put the clear lens in place and then put the decal on the clear lens. This doesn't make sense because the adhesive is on the wrong side............

Pc090830-vi.jpg

Bill, I simply skipped the water step with the gauges. I cut them out and glued them to the backside of the lenses. Two routes to the same result.

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Bill, I simply skipped the water step with the gauges. I cut them out and glued them to the backside of the lenses. Two routes to the same result.

Yeah, I didn't realize I coulda did that until after the decal was off the backing! :oops:

It's been a long time since I used dashboard decals! :mrgreen:

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Thanks all you guys for all the nice and helpful comments!

I'll try to get this all done by Friday evening, so keep an eye on the "Under Glass" section for pics.

There's only a few more things to do, but working third shift can take its toll on any building during the daytime! :)

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