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1/8 scale 1929 Tudor Sedan


old-hermit

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I poured some resin in a small Dixie cup and let it cure.

Then put it in my lathe and turned it down to simulate an oil resivoir style air cleaner.

That's a 00.90 bolt & washer in the top. I think it turned out pretty good.

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I got side tracked thinking about the interior and had an idea. The roof on a stock A model is leather with a jute underlament and chicken wire holding it up. I took a piece of vinyl and used the back side to simulate the jute. Then cut brass mesh to fit over it.

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I added some thin plastruc strips around the edges

The little bottles of Testors paint do come in handy sometimes. :o)

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I painted the mesh flat aluminum and have a finished underlayment

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Yes I did. Ken. The cotter pins I had on hand were to big to fit in the small diameter plastic rod. I put the cut side down and it's not noticeable. I did a four link on another build using the same method with aluminum tube and was able to use the entire pin.

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What a great idea. I used to search for electrical connectors to use but they were mostly too big, and grinding them down to size was a PITA. I finally broke down and bought some scale end links online,but have not used them yet.

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I want to thank everybody for their posts and compliments. If anything I do gives somebody help, inspiration or just some eye candy to look at it means a lot. It's been raining for two days and kinda dreary so not much is going on. I did get the radiator finished and a mock up done just to see for myself if it's going in the right direction.

The 29 radiator as it comes from Big Jim is very nice but needs to be modified for different applications. I installed round tube for radiator hose attachment and anchors to the frame at the bottom. Also a filler neck and drain plug.

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Grill shell with wire mesh installed. I doubt you can see it in this pic but the Ford badge on top has very nice raised script letters. It comes cast this way from Big Jim. I gotta brag on him, he does excellent work.

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And finally a mock up just to see if it's going in the right direction.

What do y'all think ? Be honest, I can take it. ;)

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I think your on the right track. It looks very good to me. Didn't notice if you said, is it going to be shiny ?

Thank you and yes, it will be shiny B)

Needs paint. ;)

Seriously....it's really looking good. At some point you'll need to put it up against another model or something to show its size.

Thank you too. Here it is with a 1/25 body in front.

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After doing some research the inner roof frame was wood, so I took balsa and built one over the wire mesh.

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They used to make tires with white walls on both sides and I thought it would be neat to have them on this build. The new release of the Big T & Tub have two piece tires. A white, hard plastic inner that creates the white wall and a rubber tire. I took white liquid shoe polish and painted the white wall on the back of the rubber tire.

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This is what I used to create the white wall. It will take several coats to completly cover and is flexible when dry so it wont crack.

000_6760-vi.jpg

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But you're not gonna make it too shiny are you?

Depends on how bad I screw up the paint job. :wub::D

I made the rear shocks from plastruc & aluminum tube and painted them

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but I wanted something shiny for the front, so off to the lathe

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I don't have a mill but I bought an XY table for my big drill press. It works pretty good for small stuff.

I used it to mill flat sides on the top & bottom for the bolts.

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Not perfect but I'm not a machinist by a long shot.

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Thank you and yes, it will be shiny B)

Thank you too. Here it is with a 1/25 body in front.

000_6762-vi.jpg

After doing some research the inner roof frame was wood, so I took balsa and built one over the wire mesh.

000_6757-vi.jpg

They used to make tires with white walls on both sides and I thought it would be neat to have them on this build. The new release of the Big T & Tub have two piece tires. A white, hard plastic inner that creates the white wall and a rubber tire. I took white liquid shoe polish and painted the white wall on the back of the rubber tire.

000_6759-vi.jpg

This is what I used to create the white wall. It will take several coats to completly cover and is flexible when dry so it wont crack.

000_6760-vi.jpg

Shoe polish... great idea and great result.

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Thanks for the comments guys. At least I know somebodys watching. heh heh heh.

Although I wasn't quite ready I had a perfect day for painting so I took advantage of it. I masked off the leather part and had one little spot of bleed through where the tape didn't stick. I hope it can be sanded out. There is also a little orange peel but I'm happy. I'll give it a few days to gas out and wax it.

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You can see the spot in about the center of the roof where it bled through

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I don't know why but the paint wrinkled in a couple of spots on the grill shell. I'll sand it out and respray it later.

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Hermit; Generally paint will wrinkle if it's applied a little too wet/heavy. Make sure you give all of your recent paint plenty of time to gas out and dry. You'll be good to go with a little polish....polishing pads. That top might be had to correct without a respray, though. What kind of paint is that up top?

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Thanks for the comments guys :D

Bryan, long time no speak !!! Good to see you back at the bench.

Ken, I sprayed the entire car with rattle can Krylon flat black then masked it and sprayed Krylon gloss black. I usually use Plasti-kote lacquer but my local store was out and I didn't want to wait another week for good weather. I got the overspray sanded out with a 2400 pad. Once it's waxed I hope it will look like polished leather, which it's supposed to be. The worst part of any build for me is paint. I am definately NOT a painter !!!!! I don't have the patience to do the prep work, or the finesse to lay down a smooth & even paint job. And have I ever mentioned I HATE SANDING !!!!! :angry:

I finally have a chassis. The suspension was painted red for no other reason than I thought it looked cool.

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The next step is the interior and it will be the hardest part as it will be entirely real wood.

I also have to scratch build some stock looking seats and a dash.

Stay tuned, I'll be back ^_^

.

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Don't feel alone, OH. I used to look at the sanding/polishing part as one of my best skills and I liked to perfect the finish as much as possible..........but now I hate doing it. My arthritis makes it hard enough, but the thought of sitting under a sink with water, paper, polsihing cloth, swabs, etc., etc. just makes me cringe. In fact, I have quite a few projects that have sat unfinished for years because I just cannot get myself to sit down and do the polishing.

Yours looks like it will need some color sanding to knock down the orange peel, but hopefully it will level out a bit over the next few days. If you're not going to clearcoat it you did the right thing by putting plenty of paint on. Just be careful of those flat edges. Those old cars were actually pretty smooth because the workers actually cared and didn't want a lumpy panel to go out...and also because they used those old laquer paint formulas that laid down and dried pretty well. So, you're a little bit up against it since yoou have put so much into the rest of the build. Put a stick of wood between your teeth and grind....err...polish...your way to model heaven. :)

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First up, thanks guys for the comment's and compliments. I appreciate it

I have quite a few projects that have sat unfinished for years because I just cannot get myself to sit down and do the polishing.

I also have a few abandoned projects because of screwed up paint.

Yours looks like it will need some color sanding to knock down the orange peel, but hopefully it will level out a bit over the next few days. If you're not going to clearcoat it you did the right thing by putting plenty of paint on. Just be careful of those flat edges. Those old cars were actually pretty smooth because the workers actually cared and didn't want a lumpy panel to go out...and also because they used those old laquer paint formulas that laid down and dried pretty well. So, you're a little bit up against it since yoou have put so much into the rest of the build. Put a stick of wood between your teeth and grind....err...polish...your way to model heaven. :)

That ain't gonna happen Ken. Since this is a post war car, I figure it's been repainted since leaving the factory (my story & I'm sticking to it B) ) It will get waxed and whatever it looks like is how it's gonna stay. I don't build to win trophys. I build to make myself happy and right now I'm pretty happy with it because I DON'T HAVE TO SAND IT !!!!!.

Am also interested in this body. My brother might be also interested. LET'S GET IT GOING!

I know selling isn't allowed on this board and I'm not selling them, but here is contact info for Jeff Palmer @ Retro Resin. You can contact him and go from there. He is easy to deal with and makes excellent 3-D and resin products in several scales. I highly recommend him. Tell him you saw my build on MCM and need more info.

palmer@amtelecom.net

http://members.fotki...izzler67/about/

http://www.shapeways...51%5Brows%5D=10

.

Edited by old-hermit
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I didn't want to make a drive shaft so I turned a simple torque tube on my lathe.

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A friend of mine made these beautiful turned aluminum Cadillac Sombrero hub caps (thanks Dave) for a 50 Merc build I started a few years ago and never finished. I thought they looked pretty cool so they are going on this one. The emblem is a decal another friend (thanks Rick) made for me. It's nice to have talented friends when you build in this scale. :D

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She's on her feet !!!! B)

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