futurattraction Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Your work looks great, Clay, even if you claim it's a bit sloppy. I love where you're going on this... Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayK Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 Thanks Scott....Like I've told you before, I am a spaz. I don't have yourt patience. I get in a hurry to get stuff done, then have to go back and fix it! But at least it is progress. Things will tighten up soon and it will start looking better. To me anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaguar man 21 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Absolutely incredable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAT-T Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 HI CLAY, YOU CAN GET THE 1/8 TUBE SOFT, JUST LOOK FOR 1/8 BRASS FUEL LINE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bytownshaker Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Clay you have some major league skills!!!!!!!!!!!! Beautiful work just Beautiful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogma3 Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 im VERY IMPRESSED WITH everything that you have scratched built.....especially the opening door hinges inside the door shell.......KUDOS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) Thanks Chris...I'd like to see it. Have you found the tubing Du-Bro gives you for sale anywhere? Clay... I used to remember a site that was called smallparts.com which I believe is now on amazon where you can find materials, I know they carry brass stock. I was trying to look it up earlier but wasn't having much luck finding the sizes we need and I haven't been able to find anyone that has the thicker wall tubing but I know someone has to stock it. I would like to have both of those sizes with the thicker wall just for the reason that they bended much easier with that dubro tubing bender. I am going to keep looking and will let you when I find it. I am even thinking of contacting K&S to find out which distributors carry the thicker wall stuff. Your work looks great, Clay, even if you claim it's a bit sloppy. I love where you're going on this... Scott If this work is considered sloppy work.... I would take it over my best work any day....lol. Clay's work is some of the best out there but I can relate to Clay that we can be our own worst critics. I have felt that way on some parts of my funny car build that I just am not happy with some things. But as you said it Scott..... I love where this build is going too. Clay.... Here are a few photos of the make shift header jig I made for my Army Funny Car: I used some basswood for the base and balsa for the smaller pieces... Edited to add: Clay here is a link to a place called specialty shapes which looks to be a partner to K&S or its a sister company. They have some .029 wall tubing. I wrote K&S asking about the .020" wall. when I hear from them I will let you know http://www.specialshapes.com/BrassTubing.html Here is where I found the special shapes on K&S's contact info http://www.ksmetals.com/ContactUs.html Edited August 29, 2014 by Mooneyzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Clay... here is the response I got this morning from the email I sent to K&S engineering: "Call Special Shapes company at 773-229-0740 You will not find the .020 wall at a retail outlet" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayK Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Thanks for the help chris. And the pics of your jig. I was thinking about it last night. I may try K&S solid aluminum rod. Once cut to length, put them in the lathe and drill out the ends. Maybe 1/8" deep. Just enough to look hollow. Then take it out of the lathe chuck, and into the bender. The solid rod should bend really nice in the bender, and since it is already aluminum I won't need to paint it silver. Just polish it up and heat stain it with Alcald. I'll let you know how it goes. Clay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 You are welcome Clay. I have to agree that the solid rod would bend really nice. I really like that you are going to approach it that way. Iam looking forward to progress pics on it and I cant wait to see the Alclad heat staining with on them. I know they will look killer. I need to lear the heat staining method...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtModeler Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 yeah, annealing helps quite a lot. Heat with a propane torch (it gets brass hotter faster then using butane).. i put the stuff on a brick to heat it, then when red hot roll it into a water dish. i used that method on my headers, but used solid brass rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScrappyJ Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Hey, Clay- I'm not wanting to hijack your thread, but I thought I would put my two pennies of thought on e exhaust. I seem to recall tat hat Sherm may have made some zoomies he did on one of his more recent projects and he had actually bent the rod before drilling the tip of the exhaust. If I'm mistaken, then I apologize to him. However, I thought about how something like tat could be done. The problem, I think, with drilling the tip and then trying to bend, is that unless you get it dead-on (where as the bender is sliding on the drilled portion of the rod), you might end up with a hollow portion back crimping and defeating the concept. If you were to take a piece of brass (since it is a harder metal), and center drill in the lathe, the same size drill bit you were going to use to do it on the tips, then come back in with a second drill bit, but this time the size of the OD of huge rod, it might keep the drill centered on the tip. With the second drill (the size of the OD of the rod), I would only plunge it the depth of the tip of the zoomie before it curves to go up to the head. Once you've made that tool and marked your drill bit so that it doesn't plunge al the way down through the zoomie's bend. You could even try putting the zoomie in the vice and use he mill to help keep it steady as you plunge. I don't know if it makes sense what I'm saying, or if it would even work, but like I said, I thought I would add my two pennies worth of thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotnitro? Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 I'm assuming the thinner wall tubing is prone to kinking? A suggestion to fill the tubing w salt or fine sand , cap the ends it with tape, then bend slowly could help. I used the method on k/s tubing for exhaust and it worked great. Hope it helps Keep up the great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirt Demon Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 That's exactly the same way I did the headers on my 1/25 scale Pro Mod Clay. Except I used solid 1/8" Evergreen styrene rod. A little heat at the bends, drill out the ends to give the appearance of being hollow, then the old Alclad heat treat look.......... Oh... and your build is awesome as always Clay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Beautiful Work! Thanks for Sharing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScrappyJ Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 I'm assuming the thinner wall tubing is prone to kinking? A suggestion to fill the tubing w salt or fine sand , cap the ends it with tape, then bend slowly could help. I used the method on k/s tubing for exhaust and it worked great. Hope it helps Keep up the great work Another good concept, Jeff! I've never actually tried that (or what I described earlier for that matter), but do believe that David Morton tried it and still had some kinking (again that is secondhand information). Another option with the same concept, is to use solder as the medium inside of the tubing in order to prevent kinking. I do believe Morton tried that and it worked for him. The cool thing is that once you make the bend, you can simply heat the tube in order to allow the solder to flow out. Again, I've never tried any of these, so it sounds like your process does work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayK Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks for all the input and advice guys....I need to get back to the bench and see what I can come up with. Clay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayK Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 More work....I've been trying to finish up the rear parachute mounts. I had started the base of it last week, and finally got it more/less done. 26 pieces total I believe. I need to clean up my joints, but it is pretty well done. And it braces the sides of the rear wing as well. Also got some more primer shot. You can see how the mounts hang off the back, and brace the wings too. Should be able to start back into the headers tonight. Thanks for looking! CK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasser59 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Hot dang...that is really cool Clay. You are one mighty skilled craftsman. What do you use for a soldering gun/iron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrone Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 WHOA !!!!.... that's all I can say... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red rocket 10 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 WoW ! Clay this is just beautiful work , give us more ! Leonard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayK Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Thank you guys! Brad, I have the orange Weller iron station. The one with the control knob and yellow sponge on the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Gorgeous (I'm running out of ways to describe your build clay...) you might want to consider NOT painting any of it. Let your handiwork be "naked" for all to see. Cheers, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Parachute mount is a work of art. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futurattraction Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Stupendous work, Clay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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