GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 A while back I bought a new R/M "T" kit. Keep in mind I'm older than dirt, bought my first one when it was introduced by Monogram and cost under 10 bucks. No way could I afford that much coin as a kid. I begged, mowed lawns and everything I could think of to get my hands on one. At the time it didn't seem possible for me to get my grubby's on one. Well, Santa came to my rescue and there under the Christmas tree was a huge box......I couldn't image what else it could be. I 'bout wet my pants when I opened that box...I was in heaven, I doubt that I have been that excited about a kit since. Well, maybe when the Big Deuce came out. I have to give kudos to Monogram and Revell for the accessory packs and additions to the kit since, but the old girl is getting a bit long in the tooth. I've always had a fondness for C-cabs, not sure why...they are big, ugly (in stock configuration) and about as aerodynamic as a bumble bee. I've built a few over the years and some sweet "custom show cars have been built" including a full size by yours truly in another life. Anyhow, I'm babbling so let's get to it.....I started this one way back and I'll be posting pics for you guys that want to try scratch building one for yourself. For those that don't want to get into that arena I'm planning on having it cast in fiberglass as a replacement body for the tired old bucket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Yeah, C-cabs are kind of the forgotten hot rods these days, and you're right they are ugly. Loooking forward to C-ing () how this progresses. I pickup up a unopened Monogram Drag Parts Pack thing a few years ago and like an idiot, sold it on eBay, never thinking I'd want to build one of the "Big" kits. Doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 I'm working with new parts, if you have a frame that was previously assembled stick it in the freezer for a while....if the glue is old enough it should separate easily with out breaking the plastic parts. Now is a good time to go ahead and build your long block, you'll need to be able to place it in the chassis to fit the body and firewall. I'm using a 327 I built in another thread using the kit small block. Any engine will do but it would be best to decide now. First photo: The frame is held together with rubber bands and I'm establishing the ride height with my hi-tech jack stands. Second photo: Checking the oil pan clearance...looks good. Third photo: Don't forget to remove those cast in kit frame gussets as they will cause body fitting problems later. Last photo: The kit front spring perch is a bit clunky for my tastes but you can easily make your own with a piece of tubing and some scrap stock. That way you can decide on how much drop you want, or you can use the standard or dropped kit perch that come with the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Firewall....... If you're using the new T kit firewall the first photo has an arrow on it. Near as I can figure that's supposed to represent a bell-crank, linage arms and return spring for the mechanical throttle linkage. The kit firewall also has fuel block for 6 carbs, the kit engine has three, and an indicated fuel line that should go to the fuel pump....that 45 degree bend in the fuel line is a NO, NO. The second photo is a resin casting but it'll give you an idea of what a sanded down kit part would look like. If either of the above work for you, that's what you should do. My next post will be for folks that want a bit more that, we'll make one that better suits our needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) I'm using .060 styrene for the added strength but .040 will do if that's what you have to work with. I traced the kit firewall onto the styrene...the dotted line is the artsy fartsy bell-housing cut-out and frame notches. If you just want a smooth molded in look and are using the kit bow tie heater you can cut out the dotted areas. I'll cut mine out using the solid line, that way I can control how deep I want the notches to set the cowl height where I want it to be. The bell-housing opening will be circular and I'll make a bell-housing cover for the inside. I never have liked the way the kit piece just angled out on one side of the opening to clear the chevy starter. Next post, I'll have mine cut out and we'll move on to mounting it and cutting up the kit body. Edited February 2, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 These pics should pretty much explain where I'm cutting the bucket body..... I be using a coping saw but use whatever works for you. Don't throw away the piece you cut off, never know when you might need a chunk of curved plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Looks a bit like a chunk of a Jeep....LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 I traced a wheel rim on the firewall and cut out the bell-housing opening, cut the notches for the frame rails with my favorite tool....the nibbler. It's cheap and is a real time saver, do yourself and favor and get one if you don't have it already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 To give you an idea of where this is headed....here's a photo of the cardstock mock-up I did for a previous build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 Trace the inside of of the firewall onto a scrap of 020. styrene and cut out...sissors will work on this thin stuff. The first photo shows the inner and outer firewall pieces. 2nd photo.......glue the outer firewall to the cowl. Trace the firewall and frame notches onto the inner firewall, cut out and cement to the inside of the body. This should give us a good strong joint that won't crack later and add some stiffness to the body. Time for a mock-up to make sure everything fits and check the all important stance. Mock-ups are an important part of scratch building, they allow you to make adjustments and tweaking before it turns into a real problem. I'm using a 327 (built from the kit engine).It has a 4-speed Vette trans I kit bashed......well, case in point, I need to modify the center cross member to drop the trans tailshaft down a little so it will line up with the pumpkin. I want a nose down attitude and plenty of ground clearance for the oil pan. This is the point where you really should determine tire size, suspension, engine & trans etc. I'm keeping the bottom edge of the body flush with the bottom edge of the frame. Here's a few pics of the mock-up.....If you haven't scratch built a body before please don't skip this step! A little head-scratching now will save you lots of grief later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weasel Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 good start for an oldfart!! says the other oldfart...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) good start for an oldfart!! says the other oldfart...lol Heard that....like your avatar, is that a Cheetah? Edited February 3, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) Once you're happy and have made all your adjustments to this point...... First picture....... Cut two strips of .020 styrene 1 1/2" tall, mine are 9 1/8th" in length at the top edge and 8 3/4" along the bottom (the body will end at the rear edge of the back tire). If you would like a longer body, make this piece longer just remember you will have to lengthen the upper section accordingly when we get to that point. Second photo...... Place the strip inside the body butt with the firewall, trace the door opening onto the styrene and cut it out. Third photo.......I taped these in place for the photo and to check the fit. Use liquid glue or solvent and bond the inner panels to the body...make sure to clamp them around the cowl area and along the sides (you can never have too many clamps...if 4 is enough, use a dozen and half....clothes pins will work if you are shy on clamps), the .020 styrene will conform easily to the inner cowl, if you use .040 you may have to pre-bend the ends slightly to get a good fit inside the cowl. Fourth Photo...... These strips serve two purposes.....they act as the basis for the interior and they will allow a good strong bond where we will butt join the outer panels to the original kit body. Edited February 3, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weasel Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Heard that....like your avatar, is that a Cheetah? yep, RnD Unique Mini Exotics line...curbside..one of my grails... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 yep, RnD Unique Mini Exotics line...curbside..one of my grails... SWEET!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75deucebuilder Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Hey Don. I love what you are doing to the Big T and making it into a C cab,have a look at Nick butler's one called Revenge, it may give you some ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) Hey Don. I love what you are doing to the Big T and making it into a C cab,have a look at Nick butler's one called Revenge, it may give you some ideas. Will do....thanks for the input, I'll be adding more to the build tomorrow and when the basic structure is complete I'll add some artsy fartsy touches to it. Edited February 4, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smart-Resins Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Looks great so far! Love seeing these still1 Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodneyBad Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 WOW!! That is some nice work ya got goin on. And Darn, is that gonna be Huge (compared to 1/24 ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 GREAT START!!!! I like C Cabs too! I built a few in 25th scale, and have collected the parts I need to build an 8th scale C Cab. Hope to start the Big C Cab this year, after I finish the 8th scale Willys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arick Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Hey Ira.....lets see what you've done with your 8th scale Willys. I'm building one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 Ditto that.......I'd like to see that puppy too Ira. I have 2 of the 1/6th Willys, one is well under way as street gasser (old school) w/blown Hemi and the other I've started cutting up to make a short wheel base pick-up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you have in mind for yours. A few guys have commented on how big these 1/6th cars are but wouldn't something like this make for a WOW 1/6th diorama? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Haven't started cutting yet, but I will be sectioning the Willys & making it a convertible. The Fenders will be lengthened & I am using seats from the 85 Vette and a Duvall Windshield. Was thinking about a Jag engine with Weber Carbs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 While we are waiting for the glue to set let's cut the outer side panels. You'll need .060 styrene or laminate some thinner material to get to the thickness of the original kit body. Don't attach these yet as we have to do a couple of things first. You guys still with me? Pretty easy so far, huh? Not much to say here...glue and clamp the outer side panels on. Don't trim the back of the outer panels to match the angle if the inner panel yet.....got a tip for ya to make a stronger corner joint when we get that far. Next up will be the floor boards and rear lower panel. Once all that is done the hard part is over....the rest is even easier and you will be able to add your own special touches to the C-cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 Haven't started cutting yet, but I will be sectioning the Willys & making it a convertible. The Fenders will be lengthened & I am using seats from the 85 Vette and a Duvall Windshield. Was thinking about a Jag engine with Weber Carbs... Way cool.....the Jag heater would really add that special Ira touch! Not much real estate under the hood, it's probably going to take some foot room from the driver's parlor. I have TDR's Jag here on the bench, if you need measurements or any of that for head scratching feel free to rattle my cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.