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What have I gotten myself into? P/S Mustang - 9/18 - hood & spoiler update


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Scott. yes I'd leave the mirror mounting panels in, easy enough especially in resin to remove later.

Dale , on Scotts behalf, resin is easier than styrene to cut as its softer ( sands way easier too). and its probably easier to cast the body in one piece. The only real difference in working resin compared to styrene is the glue you cant use ie styrene glues. As for the chassis, you're better off building your own for these types of builds as none of the kits produced have been updated since the mid 90's

hope I didnt step on any toes here,

Brett

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Thanks for your input, Wayne. It is much appreciated.

Dale, thanks for your compliment about the styling. As Brett said in his post, I think doing this as a one-piece mold is the way to go. The characteristics of resin are as he said and there will be more material and labor cost if making two molds plus some of the structural integrity/alignment of components would potentially be compromised (in my view) by doing them as two separate pieces. As far as scoops are concerned, I’m not sure if I’ll even go there. I’ve already had this discussion in my Fairmont thread about my trying to plan for too many builders' options. There are scoop choices out there that a buyer could integrate into this body. I sort of feel like I’d be reinventing the wheel if I do my own – the only benefit being that if I prefer the shape/scale/design of mine better. That - I may think about.

Jeff - thanks buddy! Coming from one of the body "masters", I truly appreciate it.

I appreciate your kind words, Bill. I plan to keep moving forward!

Dave - thanks for reinforcing my perception that the pic wasn’t of a pro stocker. I was going by the fact there was that strip of body work in front of the windshield - there are probably more clues, but that was mine... I suspect the pic was simply for illustration purposes of the stand-alone scoop.

Brett, I appreciate your input. Everything you said is true, from my experience. It’s too bad there aren’t any kits out there that reflect current chassis technology. My toes are still intact, so you needn’t worry about me… J

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Just to keep things clear here, I'm not trying to be a spoiler. I know what is required to build an accurate modern chassis for these Pro stock / Pro Mod builds and it isn't a small task. I'd like to see this project become a commercial success for Scott, and for that to happen it would need to expand it's audience beyond us scratch builders. Threads like this draw a lot attention from builders who would love a kit like this but just can't get past the chassis and that bugs me. It's all on the model industry to bring some of their stock up to date. A single modern Pro Stock Dodge Avenger and Chevy Camaro casting could be marketed by Revell as a dozen different kits and the chassis would fit this body to a T. The same goes for Pro Mod and rear engine dragsters.

I just had to get that off my chest. Carry on...

Dale

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Dale - I've certainly not taken anything you've said as trying to stir things up. Unfortunately for me, I still have a 40-hour a week job, so my available time is limited to invest in something like a modern chassis, plus I don't feel like I'm as much up on that side of things anyway. I totally agree it would be great if the kit industry would step up and produce a modern door car kit, especially since so many of the dimensions are spelled out in sanctioning body rule books. It could be a cookie-cutter chassis, almost literally, for a variety of door cars. I love fab work - it's my favorite part of modeling, but I've got my finger in enough pies as it stands right now without getting into more projects... :)

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Thanks guys. I've got a couple of "in progress" updates.

Got the hood seam filled and sanded.

hoodandwindshieldupdate001_zps3e77c2f8.j

As I've been poring over pics of the 1:1s, I realized that another mod I need to do is extend the trailing edge of the hood back into the base of the windshield. Before I can arrive at how much, I needed to establish a reasonably close idea of where the windshield needs to be, so I mocked up a cardboard rough template to get a decent idea. You can see in this overhead shot how the rear of the hood is going to need to be reshaped.

hoodandwindshieldupdate003_zps53156891.j

This is a rough profile of what it will look like. When all is said and done, I'll draw the shape up in my CAD program so I can have a piece that is identical from side to side, but this will get me in the ballpark.

hoodandwindshieldupdate002_zps9b37d150.j

Comments welcome...

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After the last update and pics I realized I needed to extend the rear of the hood quite a bit more than I'd originally indicated, particularly after looking at pics of 1:1s. The base of the windshield runs much more parallel to the upper curvature than I'd realized, so I drew up a windshield template in CAD so I could make one that was mirrored, side to side. After a few trial fits I came up with something that is at least real close. This also allowed me to cut and fit a piece of .040" sheet in after fitting it to the fenders and hump in the hood.

MustangPSpics091213001_zps12e689ad.jpg

I also need to extend the inset and raised sections at the rear of the hood. After getting the outer 1/2" of each side of the extension glued in, I cut out the middle of the extension and fitted a new "raised" section . Small gap fillers will then be attached and tie the whole shebang together. After the extension has all been roughed into shape, I can then cut the excess off and reshape it to match the final windshield shape.

MustangPSpics091213003_zpsab8c43ee.jpg

Lastly, I got the grille blank glued in permanently and shot a bit of primer on the leading edges of the front fenders to check how much body work/blending I still have to do to smooth everything out as it transitions into the nose.

MustangPSpics091213004_zpsa8f25773.jpg

I had some help from Emilee while I was taking pics... lol

MustangPSpics091213007_zpsce079ade.jpg

Comments welcome!

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Scott not sure these will help.

http://s975.photobucket.com/user/magicphotos_photos/media/DSC_2373.jpg.html?filters[user]=101298031&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

http://s975.photobucket.com/user/magicphotos_photos/media/DSC_2630.jpg.html?filters[user]=101298031&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1

http://s975.photobucket.com/user/magicphotos_photos/media/DSC_1245.jpg.html?filters[user]=101298031&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2

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Thanks so much Dave for your words of encouragement!

Mike - I really appreciate the photos. I have searched high and low to find as close to a perfectly perpendicular shot at ground level to show the profile of one of these cars. Yours is the best one I've seen, so thanks a ton... :)

Joe, I appreciate your compliment. The thing is, you do have the skill and patience. You've already demonstrated that on other projects I've seen you share...

Hey, thanks Leonard. I'm gonna keep working at it. Progress...a little at a time! lol

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This from that match race with one of the Johnsons? Warren, I think.

Dale

(Nice pics)

Edited by ScaleDale
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hey Scott, looking sweet. compiling the hours in that body, aren't cha.... I put my lightning away, just for that reason, thought I was going to get some other projects done....... HAHA,

what filler are you using? what sheet thickness also?

keep plugging along, we will be chatting soon, I think I am going to expand on some PE parts.

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Dale - I'm gonna have to trust the others to figure out who Morgan is racing... :)

Thanks Larry. I got the gap filler pieces in last night after I got home from barbershop chorus. Lord willing, more updates will be coming.

Hey Al. Nice hearing from you. I've been all over the board with filler. When I started this project over a year ago I had some Evercoat (green) that I was using, then the tube the activator was in developed a crack in it and the tub the filler was in was always a pain to use, so I ended up getting some 2-part Bondo filler (pink), which is what I've been using more recently. I have used a bit of Milliput on the inside of the body to strengthen a couple joints, but all the exterior filler has been the first two mentioned. I will go to using some glazing compound for doing fine work because it shapes easily and doesn't require a lot of pressure to remove material, which lessens the likelihood of messing up adjacent areas of the body. A prime location I know I'll use it is back where the C-pillars transition into the top of the quarters. There needs to be a more gradual radius. It will help to soften the body lines and add a bit more "roundness" to the shape. The material I've used to extend the hood was .040" sheet. I'm 99% sure that is the thickness I used to make the flat body sides and rear, lower quarter panel extensions behind the wheel well openings. The rear wheel well lips were two, layered .020x.125 strips fitted against the edge of the opening because I want to create a band over the top of the opening. The front lips were a single piece of .040x.100 strip. I should have probably done those as two layered strips, too, but didn't. The thicker material fought me the whole way. It is attached to the inside of the opening, not against the edge (like the rears were done). The valence panel is a hodgepodge of stuff I don't even recall now... lol Probably lots more info than you really wanted or needed to know... :)

Edited by futurattraction
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