TorqueWrench08

Glad to have been able to help a couple others out.

Art, thanks for the detailed explanation.Using it I made a quick reference chart in Excel.Please feel free to double check my work and make any suggestions.I took a screen shot to post but have the Excel save if you or anyone else could use it.All calculations can be adjusted or extended quickly beyond what I did here. Hopefully this will help zwitterman and I, maybe others as well.

@impcon - lol glad to hear Im not the only one but 3+ hours to anything is a bit more than my reach. @AgentG - Thanks for the tip on the 'for sale' signs and Ive actually got a gallon of Bondo about 3ft from where I sit now.Will have to experiment with mixtures for something that requires so little when compared to a 1:1.No trouble bonding/adhering to the styrene? @LDO - Sheets would be used to cover large areas or to fab parts such as fuel cells.Solid strip sounds like what Im after for my framing work- just wondered about a general size that works well to scale for 1:24 & 1:25...?Is this the Weld-on you speak of?Fair price? Any others care to comment/suggest sizes?

Im just getting into the 'custom' modeling instead of straight outta the box builds and would like to make frames/chassis' That being said my main question is what size styrene should I use?I build 1:24 & 1:25 models... How about sheets-what thickness is easy to work with and will do the job for most applications... That closest thing to a hobby shop I have locally is a "Micheal's" which is still 30ish miles away(I live in the boonies-read as B.F.E.) so most if not all of my purchases will be made online. Knowing that, what's a good/cheap supplier. Is one brand without a doubt better than others? On a side not, whats a good filler for for grafting pieces together where seams appear or for giving a smooth contour between to perpendicular pieces? Any help is appreciated.TIA

@vizio93 - For now Im going on with the yellow.I wanted something bright that catches the aye but not all out.Im kinda partial to black and yellow to begin with some that may have something to do with it as well.Its always possible to change my mind later on.Ive got a little to do before I get started on the car today but hopefully pictures by noon-ish @mannyclub - Thanks & hope you like the finished product

Ild be about an hours drive west of Tally. Tomorrow Ill try to move the leaves in a do something with the wheel wells and see how it turns out.Pictures to follow

Thanks to you both.And to modlbldr, sadly I know of no hobby shops locally.Living in the boonies-read as B.F.E.- theres not much of anything here or withink the next 50 miles at least.The only place I knew of closed about 5-10 years ago.As for the 4-link, its a great idea and theres plenty of ambition, but as I said with no shops and already limited supplies Ive got work with what I have around from other builds.

Forgive me if I borrow some of your techniques for lowering as I just began working on the same model.Just noticed your GT500 as well which I have a Revell kit of and was to be my next project....great minds think alike?

Im east, northeast of Pensacola about 125mi or north of Panama City by about 70. Ive been staring at this chassis for about an hour now hypothesizing and I think ive figured out how to get my drop in the rear but still need to pull the wheels in a bit. The rearend that came with the kit is a one piecer with the leaf springs.The leaves are preventing the axel from going into the wheel which I might coule fix by simply, right , detaching the leaves and moving them in a bit but I still face the problem of my inner wheel wells that are one piece with the chassis. Couple pictures to help convey my situation.Couldnt get a clear shot from above

@whale392 - I agree that stance is very important. I would like to lower some so Ive been lookin for spare parts through all my boxes. Currently trying to work something out for the rearend. The wheels Im using have deep backspacing so Ive been searching for a wide enough rearend. The current placement of the tires have them touching the inner fenders so I may end up tubing it just enough to fit the rearend and tuck the wheels under the fender. & to answer your question, I could throw a rock and hit Alabama or Georgia @ mark taylor - Diggin' the comment man thanks for that. This just happened to be one of several kits I had laying around and dont have the extra $$$ at the moment to get another so Ill tough this one out. If in the future I decide to do a remake of sorts Ill keep that in mind especially concerning the door panels. @jeffs396 - Thanks lol

As the title say I'm a new member with a new project.Im a 20 year old male.Have been putting models together since I was about 6.Just trying to get back into them to help quit smoking and looking to improve my skills. Ive already discovered a few techniques Im eager to try. Ive got a 1970 Mustang Boss 429 by Revell I'm currently workin on. Lookin to do something different than just throwing it together. Any hints, tips, tricks, thoughts, suggestions, or whatever are greatly appreciated. Thus far my only changes to the original model are the doors-my first attempt mind you, and the wheels are from a '39 Wagon Rod by AMT kit. Feel free to suggest/comment whats on your mind.Thanks