A question about Model Master buffing metalizer

[Mr. Show]

I bought some aluminum plate buffing metalizer since it's the only one that doesn't require the base and clear, which I can't find at any store anyway. I have a few questions since my results have been less than stellar.

First, it says on the can to do only one mist coat and buff after one hour. Can you recoat after buffing? I buffed lightly with a very high fiber count polishing cloth and it took off quite a bit of the finish, leaving it very dull and looking nothing like aluminum.

What's the best base coat? So far I've only tried white and gray primer and primer sealer. It looks the same on all of them.

The cans that say they require the 2-part system: can any primer and clear be used or are model master's some special formulation?

Edited November 15, 2010 by Mr. Show

[Foxer]

That seems odd. Wish I could give some idea why it would come off after buffing. I use Aluminium Plate buffing from a spray can more than any other metallizer and have never had it come off. It always buffs to a nice shine and I rarely clear coat it since it will lose much of it's look. I never pay attention to primers as it covers so well. I've used it over sandable primer and bare plastic.

It has to be some paint glitch like humidity that some of the better painters here might answer.

[MikeMc]

I use it and do not know what "base" is. Metalizers will stick to clean bare plastic...Donn Yost uses them as primer. Gentle buffing will bring out the shine, the sealer will dull it down..Have you washed and dried the parts your painting...

[Mr. Show]

I use it and do not know what "base" is. Metalizers will stick to clean bare plastic...Donn Yost uses them as primer. Gentle buffing will bring out the shine, the sealer will dull it down..Have you washed and dried the parts your painting...

There were two others on the shelf, a bright platinum and I think silver. On both cans it says "two part system required, base+clear." The aluminum plate is the only one that doesn't have that.

I'll take a picture of something I painted so you can get an idea of what I mean and post it shortly.

edit: Here's the picture:

That is one light mist coat even though the picture looks like it's caked on there for some reason. You can see where it rubbed off in a few places. The wheel was primed (Duplicolor white lacquer primer), sanded and free of any grease, dirt, etc. Forgot to mention also that after three days I decided they were dry enough to put in the tires, but it rubbed off onto my thumb even with light pressure.

Edited November 13, 2010 by Mr. Show

[whale392]

I too have never used the Metalizer series of paints over primer. I shoot one to two decent coats, allow to dry for a day and come back, buff, and enjoy. Too bad they lose 60% of their sexiness when you try to clearcoat them.

[Modelmartin]

Since I always color outside the lines and never liked any of the brands of buffing metalizers, I decide to use the non-buffing and then buff it! It works really well for a bright aluminum - almost polished look. For well polished I use Alclad Chrome with a lighter color basecoat.

I agree with several others that you can't clear over any of the metallizers with anything! It ruins the polished look and ends up looking like silver paint.

The primer underneath the metalaizer is a problem. You need a high gloss/well-polished finish underneath any metalizer.

[John Pol]

Well thats good you still can get that paint over there in the States.They stoped selling here in Canada awile ago.

John Pol

I bought some aluminum plate buffing metalizer since it's the only one that doesn't require the base and clear, which I can't find at any store anyway. I have a few questions since my results have been less than stellar.

First, it says on the can to do only one mist coat and buff after one hour. Can you recoat after buffing? I buffed lightly with a very high fiber count polishing cloth and it took off quite a bit of the finish, leaving it very dull and looking nothing like aluminum.

What's the best base coat? So far I've only tried white and gray primer and primer sealer. It looks the same on all of them.

The cans that say they require the 2-part system: can any primer and clear be used or are model master's some special formulation?

[Mr. Show]

Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and stripped the wheels and will try again over the bare plastic.

I also had another question concerning paints that I don't feel deserves a new topic: I have a can of Boyd's "Grape Pearl" enamel spray. Does this need a base coat? The color on the lid isn't transparent like the other Boyd's pearl I have but I want to be sure.

Thanks.

[MikeMc]

Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and stripped the wheels and will try again over the bare plastic.

I also had another question concerning paints that I don't feel deserves a new topic: I have a can of Boyd's "Grape Pearl" enamel spray. Does this need a base coat? The color on the lid isn't transparent like the other Boyd's pearl I have but I want to be sure.

Thanks.

Yes it does...you can use white or silver, but use the aluminum metalizer....try it on a plastic spoon first.

The other paints you mentioned are "colors" and they are 2 part....color and clear for the shine

[38 Crush]

I bought some aluminum plate buffing metalizer since it's the only one that doesn't require the base and clear, which I can't find at any store anyway. I have a few questions since my results have been less than stellar.

First, it says on the can to do only one mist coat and buff after one hour. Can you recoat after buffing? I buffed lightly with a very high fiber count polishing cloth and it took off quite a bit of the finish, leaving it very dull and looking nothing like aluminum.

What's the best base coat? So far I've only tried white and gray primer and primer sealer. It looks the same on all of them.

The cans that say they require the 2-part system: can any primer and clear be used or are model master's some special formulation?

The "Base" your talking about is the actual metalizer color ( in this case aluminum Plate) and the clear is just to help to keep from the Base color from coming off. But if you use it it dulls the finish. The one thing I've learned is the longer you wait to lightly buff it the less paint comes off. And for some reason some color coat will always want to come off so you have to be carful handling the part.

38 Crush

[Bernard Kron]

... the longer you wait to lightly buff it the less paint comes off. And for some reason some color coat will always want to come off so you have to be carful handling the part....

This about sums up my experience. Typically I wait a day before buffing and the Metalizer holds up extremely well. I use a soft cotton cloth or facial tissue for buffing. If you let the Metalizer dry thoroughly I have found that you can buff fairly agressively to get a very high shine. I generally apply my Metalizers over primer (usually various shades of Duplicolor) for 2 reasons: 1) It provides some tooth so that the Metalizer (once it's dried properly) holds up well; 2) I use the various shades to control subtle variations in the final shade of metalizer.

Not mentioned so far is that I quite often will use Metalizers directly out of the jar with a brush (even though they say airbrush only) for small parts and detail work. It should be applied smoothly and sparingly to avoid buildup and brush marks. If you wait 5-10 minutes or so between coats you can build up a decent layer. Properly dried it is extremely effective.

I use virtually every shade of Metalizer in both spray cans and jars for one purpose or another. Over time and with much handling they all will gradually rub off so once they're applied I tend to avoid handling whenever possible. I quite often will apply a second coat which helps with this issue. I never apply a clear coat of any kind if I want the Metalizer effect.

I agree than many of the non-buffable colors buff up quite nicely.

I swear by the stuff and Testors makes a lot off me every year with this particular line of paints. I especially like the air of realism it lends my projects. Here's are some pictures of the motor and chassis from the Revell Willys Street Rod which I completely stripped of chrome and detailed in Metalizers which shows what I like about these paints:

Edited November 16, 2010 by gbk1