DrKerry Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ought to look kool Richard, Can't wait to see the chassis come to life!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonFL Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Always impressed with your builds Richard and they're always inspirational. I'm thinking about trying to do a build of a 41 chevy abandoned pickup with my wife. She's never done one and I have yet to finish one so I figure if I do a rusted out abandoned/wrecked build I can't mess up and hope it's a fast build. Any advice or techniques for some first timers? You never disappoint. Can't wait to see what you do with the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Body looks great Richard. Very realistic work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 thnx guys!!! and jason , like i said start with the basics , that is damage if you imagine some damage or holes in the body , dents .. do so in the styrene fase ... when you are statisfied with the look .. then put on some primer .. dont sand it after that dryed .. already gived you a nice flat but not smooth surface .. then the easyest way is to buy some acrylic paint and buy the burnt sienna color ...also buy pigment rust powder (i have vallejo old rust).. then section by section paint on the acrylic burtn sierra with a brush and whet i find works nice is to smoothen it with a soft brush .. then sprinkle the pigment powder in/on the wet acrylic paint layer .... i advise to do this above a piece of a4 paper so the excess falls on the paper .. when its on tap the body so the excess pigment powder falls of on the a4 paper .... after like 5 minutes you take a very soft brush and mildly brush over the body .. now you dont want to press but barely go over it .. now again a tiny bit of pigment powder comes of .. when you did the whole body (and i said do it in sections because otherwise the acrylic is dry before you can get it smooth or sprinkled with powder).. so when you did the whole body set it aside ... the a4 paper i mentioned was to catch the pigment poweder falling off ... fold the middle and you can put it back in the container and re-use it .. if you let it just fall on the bench or table top you can never get it back in the container .. you just smudge it all over so now you have a matt rusted body .....not smooth and thats perfect ....the next day you should be able to hold it without the pigment coming off ... now making tones .. i have a small set of crayons or better said chalks .. ranging from red like rust to brown (different tones) now the chalks are perfect to ghet some different tones on earea's ... i hold a chalk above the spot i want to do and rug something along the chalk now just like the pigment rust powder ... powder chals stuff fals on the body .. and after that using a soft bround brush you can playaround with that and go over it ... basicly thats how you maintain a really matte finish and get several tones ... instead of using chalks you can also but different colors of pigment poweders off course also cool > you could but a more yellow powder and only do a door yellow and the rest rust color ... ounce you have the base its just a matter of palying around with tones and effects .. just try stuff i'd say oh and in the case when you handle the body some pigment powder and acrylic have come off and you think it looks weird or you see the primer .. you just put on a bit of acrylic and sprinkle powder again and its fixed .. so easy and of course there are more cool techniques .. you can also try the salt methode when you want a more worn paint look this is a abandones , rusted vehicle i did on my service / gasstation dio >> and that was done when i was still trying out rust making and not really knew how to go about > its actually a mercedes from heller lol busted the front window , made holes and glued the pieces together and used yellow .. all the other parts are also done with pigment powder again when i was still trying it out for the first time .. works great and the cool swtuff is when you see it outside with full light it really pops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Kool stuff Rich!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 thnx kerry ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Welcome!!!! Thank you for the eye candy!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) thnx guys .. hmm i need some advise , started on a chassis today .. tbh i wasnt really in the zone ... used a pick-up chassis as base and mildly z-d the back .. used some scrap parts ... but it didnt go like i wanted .. in the end this is what i ended up with .. kind of made my own fantasy rear axle mount / susupension .. tried to make it look more mome made but i'm not sure ? hight of the axle is good though , bit higher then how this rod was before , ride hight is spot on now made axle brackets with beefy shocks .. thought it would be cool to make more beefy looking shocks .. now i dont know if they would work not straight up but more sideways like this ??? so opinions welcome ? do it all over or continue ?? .. Edited February 22, 2015 by crazyrichard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joker Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Enjoying the "sunshine" photos Rich. Thanks for posting/sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 added a floor above the axle assembly following the curve of the chassy .. so any thoughts ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbill Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 wow, just wow.......amazing stuff......... you make me want to throw out my all my stuff....lol, just incredible work...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Looks good to me. I think you should continue with the chassis. Offbeat suspensions are common in rat rods. Looking forward to more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Pugh Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I'm diggin' it! Nice save! I need your shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 thnx guys !!and whell i must be hounest i should just invest some money in the future and buy evergreen styrene when building a chassis .. its cool to make it from scraps and from all types of plastics but one day i want to make like a perfect chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 went on with scrapbuilding lol very rough stuff needs loads of filing and sanding .. the beige axle struts will be changed i had to cut the crossmember and so i will make better ones from the axle to .. the frame made a tunnel from a pen , its clear stuff so now without paint it doesnt show real good dryfitted a driveshaft should be cool to keep this lenght and keep the engine like this so the tranny is more under the firewall and that creates room and it would be not so cramped in all ....... bit longer wheelbase with a axle mounted up front ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonFL Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 thnx guys!!!and jason ,like i said start with the basics , that is damage if you imagine some damage or holes in the body , dents .. do so in the styrene fase ...when you are statisfied with the look .. then put on some primer .. dont sand it after that dryed .. already gived you a nice flat but not smooth surface ..then the easyest way is to buy some acrylic paint and buy the burnt sienna color ...also buy pigment rust powder (i have vallejo old rust)..then section by section paint on the acrylic burtn sierra with a brush and whet i find works nice is to smoothen it with a soft brush .. then sprinkle the pigment powder in/on the wet acrylic paint layer ....i advise to do this above a piece of a4 paper so the excess falls on the paper .. when its on tap the body so the excess pigment powder falls of on the a4 paper .... after like 5 minutes you take a very soft brush and mildly brush over the body .. now you dont want to press but barely go over it .. now again a tiny bit of pigment powder comes of ..when you did the whole body (and i said do it in sections because otherwise the acrylic is dry before you can get it smooth or sprinkled with powder)..so when you did the whole body set it aside ...the a4 paper i mentioned was to catch the pigment poweder falling off ... fold the middle and you can put it back in the container and re-use it .. if you let it just fall on the bench or table top you can never get it back in the container .. you just smudge it all over :)so now you have a matt rusted body .....not smooth and thats perfect ....the next day you should be able to hold it without the pigment coming off ...now making tones .. i have a small set of crayons or better said chalks .. ranging from red like rust to brown (different tones)now the chalks are perfect to ghet some different tones on earea's ... i hold a chalk above the spot i want to do and rug something along the chalk now just like the pigment rust powder ... powder chals stuff fals on the body .. and after that using a soft bround brush you can playaround with that and go over it ...basicly thats how you maintain a really matte finish and get several tones ... instead of using chalks you can also but different colors of pigment poweders off course :)also cool > you could but a more yellow powder and only do a door yellow and the rest rust color ...ounce you have the base its just a matter of palying around with tones and effects .. just try stuff i'd sayoh and in the case when you handle the body some pigment powder and acrylic have come off and you think it looks weird or you see the primer .. you just put on a bit of acrylic and sprinkle powder again and its fixed .. so easyand of course there are more cool techniques .. you can also try the salt methode when you want a more worn paint lookthis is a abandones , rusted vehicle i did on my service / gasstation dio >> and that was done when i was still trying out rust making and not really knew how to go about > its actually a mercedes from heller lolbusted the front window , made holes and glued the pieces together and used yellow ..all the other parts are also done with pigment powder again when i was still trying it out for the first time .. works greatand the cool swtuff is when you see it outside with full light it really pops I apologize for the late response but I can't thankyou enough Richard for taking the time to make the write up and post photos. Very informative. I've read over it a few times and you make it sound so easy, bada bing bada boom...haha. But seriously, it's much appreciated. I don't have everything you had mentioned but I have a new Hobby Lobby that just opened near me so when I'm ready this will come in handy. I do have the salt so I might try that way as well. I only had three questions for you. 1. Do I assemble it all first then start the dents and rust? 2. I was also curious how you go about getting the deep rust holes and dents? 3. Is there a way to seal it after applying the pigment and chalks so it doesnt rub off? Looking forward to trying these techniques out. Btw, if there's nothing better then your models it's your dioramas. Things are incredible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullPowerGarage Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) you can create dents with a lighter, heat it a bit and massage it into the shape you want. Edited February 26, 2015 by FullPowerGarage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 hi jason , whell if you make dents its wise to do so while its on the chassis or lets say doors or hood .. because then you know it wil fit tegether if you first dent the body you could have a non fitting underside / chassis but that all can be done in mockup / styrene stage the deeper parts often are when you put more structure on the surface using powder .. you could even put glue on earea's and mildly trow fine sawdust over it to create a crusty surface .. al depends on how ratty / rusty and damaged it has to be and no i dont seal it because that can affect the powder and it doesnt rub off if you handle it .. sometimes maybe a small spot or along a edge but you can always toutch that up ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Looks good Rich, as Bob said I'd go with it!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonFL Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 hi jason , whell if you make dents its wise to do so while its on the chassis or lets say doors or hood .. because then you know it wil fit tegether if you first dent the body you could have a non fitting underside / chassis but that all can be done in mockup / styrene stagethe deeper parts often are when you put more structure on the surface using powder .. you could even put glue on earea's and mildly trow fine sawdust over it to create a crusty surface .. al depends on how ratty / rusty and damaged it has to beand no i dont seal it because that can affect the powder and it doesnt rub off if you handle it .. sometimes maybe a small spot or along a edge but you can always toutch that up ... Awesome! This has been a huge help. Thanks again for all the advice Richard. Looking forward to the rest of this build and all the rest that follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 thnx guys ! finished the tunnel and added some wiring and then sprayed it with primer followed by black ... this is only a base washes and stuff will follow .. some chrome painted parts that will get a wash also ..... some wiring along the chassis more will come i think these big size white walls will be cool in the back body will siot a tad higher from the ground eventually , only a loose mock up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 The tires really bring it to life! .. looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 How did I miss this? All I can say is "woooooooow" !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 thnx guys made the cables a bit more visible again and brushed the black so it not so smooth and a tad less glossy rusted the diff cover and rusted the floor so the chassis pops more .. now later i will toutch up some things more .. like the bottom edges of the cab .. they are bare again because it sits on the bench .. after assembly i will cover the edges in rust again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 repainted the chassis black to clean it up again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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