moparmagiclives Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Has anyone used one of these? Is it more pain the gain? Price isnt to horrid if it works ok I guess. I guess the process is pretty simple but I wondering how much work is needed to get a good pattern to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pol Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Well I heard guys buy it for one thing you have to be a good drawer or be able to the cad program to design the stuff. John Pol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmagiclives Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 One does need to be a good artist. The expense comes in when you go to get the artwork printed on a transparency for use on the photoreactive plates. depending where you go it could get very expensive. I was under the understanding you use your printer and the laminator that comes in the kit? I guess one could buy a lot of odds and end PE parts for the 125 bucks this thing costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Lombardo Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) I am in the process of doing photo etch pieces for my Timbs Streamline special. Just today we finished the artwork. My brother is a sign maker and has all of the necessary computer programs for creating the artwork. I have the art programs for my ad agency, but my brother is so proficient with the programs and used to run a graphic photo art service center so he has specific knowledge of the photo process and the necessary quality of the artwork that I would be remiss not to tap his expertise. He also has the lamination equipment so I did not have to buy that Micro Mark kit. I ordered the necessary chemicals and stainless sheets along with the photo sensitive material and carriers and clear film. The kit is around $125.00 + shipping if I remember correctly and the necessary stuff I purchased came to $80.00 with tax and shipping (Micro Mark is in NJ, like me, so tax was paid). This morning we printed the mask onto the film and I have to say, it looks great, very crisp and tight. I did some '32 and '34 Ford grilles along with the stuff for the Timbs Streamliner......grille, headlight surrounds, step plates, bumpers and license plate and plate surround. Monday we will be doing the actual photo etching process. The stainless sheet is (I think if I remember) 6' by 9' so we filled in lots of extras to use the whole sheet. After seeing the quality of the printout on the clear film I am very optimistic that this will work fine. If it does, the next photo etch sheet we do will have lots of extra stuff on it.....you know, wiper blades of various size, grilles for other cars and all kinds of engine stuff. I have to see. I will post pictures of the process as it unfolds, successfully I hope. Edited December 24, 2011 by Peter Lombardo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I have one. The quality of your artwork and the care you take producing it, will make a huge difference in how the parts turn out. My advice practice by creating the artwork, and printing it on paper. Cut the paper out and see if the part fits where you want it. if it does print the transparency and produce the part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportandmiah Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I have one. The quality of your artwork and the care you take producing it, will make a huge difference in how the parts turn out. My advice practice by creating the artwork, and printing it on paper. Cut the paper out and see if the part fits where you want it. if it does print the transparency and produce the part. Darin , could you walk us through the process of using this? I've been thinking about getting one. Could you step by step walk ke through it, and maybe post a picture of some of the parts you've produced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Interesting topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I have one, and it seems so complicated to use, I never have. If you DO do a "How To' Peter, I for one would be VERY interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Darin , could you walk us through the process of using this? I've been thinking about getting one. Could you step by step walk ke through it, and maybe post a picture of some of the parts you've produced? I just got mine a few months ago. I'm working on the artwork now, but believe it or not it isn't all that complicated, it's just that the you have to be precise. I should have some parts done sometime in January Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmagiclives Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 I have one. The quality of your artwork and the care you take producing it, will make a huge difference in how the parts turn out. My advice practice by creating the artwork, and printing it on paper. Cut the paper out and see if the part fits where you want it. if it does print the transparency and produce the part. I have no worries about the art work, I guess its one of those take home and play type of things to see if it will work out. I dont do alot of full custom scratch building, so I'm now wondering if I should just buy photo parts that are already available as I need them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 I have no worries about the art work, I guess its one of those take home and play type of things to see if it will work out. I dont do alot of full custom scratch building, so I'm now wondering if I should just buy photo parts that are already available as I need them. When all is said and done photo etching is a lot like screen printing. if the art work is right and you follow the steps correctly, it will work great, if the art work is bad there is nothing you can do to get a good result with out fixing the artwork. So it boils down to this; Can you design the part, and create the artwork. if you can the rest is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren B Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 cool have to check out one of those kits then, cause the price of buying photoetch kits can be pretty heavy and you have to buy what they make, if you make your own then the sky is the limit for what parts you make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmagiclives Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 The screen printing explanation really brings it into focus, Again, I'm not worried about the art work its self, but can something be hand drawn or is it the inkjet that produces the effect for the acid to work against? Do you know if a photo copy printed out would work? cool have to check out one of those kits then, cause the price of buying photoetch kits can be pretty heavy and you have to buy what they make, if you make your own then the sky is the limit for what parts you make. Thats what I was thinking when I first seen that set up, but I'm wondering how much I would really use it now. I must be getting old, I've never had a problem buying a tool to use just once in the past.. If I was going into a full scratch built project like I've seen in the few Model car Mags I've got, then its the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaronw Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 The screen printing explanation really brings it into focus, Again, I'm not worried about the art work its self, but can something be hand drawn or is it the inkjet that produces the effect for the acid to work against? Do you know if a photo copy printed out would work? The ink does not have a chemical effect, it just protects the photo resist from the sun so only the part you want to "attach" to the metal gets developed. I suppose you could hand draw some of the artwork if it was something that would look ok hand drawn. Just like decals you will get better rsults by using quality drawing programs (Corel Draw / Adobe Illustrator). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Okay, I've been all over the web, including some searches here regarding Micro Mark's photo etch kit and am essentially coming up blank. I'm wanting to make badging and emblems for model cars I build where MCG kits are not available. That said, does anybody have experience with this kit and can vouch for what it can do? And yes, I know it requires a vector based drawing program and yes, I am quite good with it.....seems everyone wants to mention that but never mentions the capability of the kit. Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Sorry I can't offer any experience with this, but there was a recent thread asking the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratnasty Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 here is the kit i got and the nickel plating but I have not used it yet http://www.micromark.com/plating-and-etching.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I followed the other topic and have seen some others - but, has anybody actually used this kit? Anyone have pictures of something they have made? Good or bad, I've been intersted in this system for awhile. I read a lot of "won't work because of" comments and recommendations but never by someone who actually used the system - or at least that indicated they had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I followed the other topic and have seen some others - but, has anybody actually used this kit? Anyone have pictures of something they have made? Good or bad, I've been intersted in this system for awhile. I read a lot of "won't work because of" comments and recommendations but never by someone who actually used the system - or at least that indicated they had. I couldn't have said this any better...EXACTLY! Anyone??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 If you would like to see some parts made by this system you need to look n farther than the article on Randy Derr's race car model in MCM #160. But what you are asking, is like asking "how accurately does an x-acto knife cut?" The tool is only as good as the craftsman handling it. I have the micro mark photo etching set,and all it is really is the supplies you need and two pieces of equipment. one is a small laminator to laminate the light sensitive acid resist to the metal, and an agitator for the acid. neither has the ability to make a part better or worse. If your artwork is good, and the acid resist is exposed and developed correctly you will get a good part. if your artwork is bad and is misaligned when you expose the acid resist you will have a bad part. The set comes with a how-to book on the ins and out of making photo etched parts. when you buy the set and read the book you will undersatnd what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Darin - did you get some parts made with the kit? I remember reading and looking at Randy's build - I'll take a closer look now as I forgot he had some PE made and made some on his own. I have a couple scratch build projects coming up that involve scripts/ribs on valve covers and I think I'll get the kit and try it. I'll let everybody know how it goes - unless they turn out terrible. Then I'll destroy everything and find a new hobby. No, not that last part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Darin - did you get some parts made with the kit? Not yet as my wife's heath issues have kept me from working in my shop, but I have made the artwork and will be making parts in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 If you would like to see some parts made by this system you need to look n farther than the article on Randy Derr's race car model in MCM #160. But what you are asking, is like asking "how accurately does an x-acto knife cut?" The tool is only as good as the craftsman handling it. I have the micro mark photo etching set,and all it is really is the supplies you need and two pieces of equipment. one is a small laminator to laminate the light sensitive acid resist to the metal, and an agitator for the acid. neither has the ability to make a part better or worse. If your artwork is good, and the acid resist is exposed and developed correctly you will get a good part. if your artwork is bad and is misaligned when you expose the acid resist you will have a bad part. The set comes with a how-to book on the ins and out of making photo etched parts. when you buy the set and read the book you will undersatnd what I mean. Darin, I'd just like to see some work produced from this kit before I go investing in it. I've done a search here and can't seem to find anything on Randy Derr, would you mind posting a link? Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Darin, I'd just like to see some work produced from this kit before I go investing in it. I've done a search here and can't seem to find anything on Randy Derr, would you mind posting a link? Thanks, John I don't think his build is on the web, just in the magazine. But like I said, the system is not what makes the part better or worse. so long as the artwork is correct and the steps are followed the acid withh etch away the right area and you get a good part. It's like the x-acto knife analogy, I can't show you what you can do with it by showing what I've done. You'll either make a great cut, or you could slice your finger off. The system is only a tool that allows people with the skill to photo-etch a means of doing so. It's the skill of the operator that makes the difference. All the system consists of is the materials, the laminator, and an acid tank with an agitator. with great artwork and careful use, you will get a great result. with bad artwork you will get a bad result. The machine is just a tank that you put the acid in and agitate it. You could make it yourself but it's easier to buy the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I think what Darin is trying to say is, its all how you go about doing it, I would say its one of those things that follow under the , your reslults my very , meaning its up to you to make them come out good . But I do understand that you would like to see what it looks like as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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