Jerry Norton Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I just recently finished reading through all 72 pages of Tips And Techniques. Took some time, but enjoyed every minute of it. This why I love car modeling, people share their ideas, tip and techniques. No so much in the aircraft community. I should know. I'm 71 years old and have been steadily modeling since 1969. Being a career Air Force guy, I naturally gravitated to aircraft and then some wise guy somewhere came out with resin cast classic sports racing cars. I was hooked. To get to my point. I read a lot of entries in T and T about clear coating items painted with Testor's metalizers. I would like to add my 2 cents (which is actually worth about 0.0005 of a cent ). I can screw up a paint job just by looking at it. So when I'm done spraying a part with metalizer, I clear coat it with Humbrol Satin Varnisher thinned 1-1 with Humbrol thinner. I don't think it makes the part look "toy-like" and does protect the finish. In fact, in some cases seems to enhance the metal look. Just another possibility you could try when you have absolutely nothing else to do at your workbench. Keep modeling everybody - it's a fabulous hobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) The problem I have with clearing over metalizers is that if you BUFF the metalizer, to get the full advantage of the effect of the product, and then clear, the clear, in my experience, totally spoils the buffed effect. Tell me what I'm doing wrong. Perhaps a water-base clear wouldn't. Edited July 3, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Norton Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Bill, My comments were based on buffing the metalizer, but I gotta be honest, I haven't tried an acrylic clear. May have to give it a shot. My favorite combo on the vintage racing engines I do is stainless steel lock, buffed and then hit with the Humbrol Clear Satin. Then for the exhaust I use titanium unbuffed and coated. Happy Birthday America Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tradeshowjoe Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 hey guts, I hear this alot, alot! Clearcoating metalizer is as simple as using the metalizer clear! It never dulls my finish, I even use it over Alclad chrome. Never, I repear, NEVER, do I have a problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalmad Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Metalizer clear or sealer ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scalenut Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I skip using the clear , steel, metal , brass, magnesium, aluminum ect.. is not coated with high gloss in the real world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter31a Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 True, but what Jerry is saying is that if you use the Humbrol satin it seals it without being shiny and the part can be handled. Good tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtx6970 Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 The wheels, and the blower are painted with Metalizers then clear coated with semi gloss clear testors Blower and rear wheels are magnesium and the ft wheels are aluminum ( both lightly buffed then cleared ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 1017 Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 I always use the Metalizer Sealer it works just fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelbuilder Mark Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Not sure what I am doing wrong, but when I use ANY clear/sealer so far on buffing Metzlizers, I am not happy with the finish afterwards. Over time I will keep trying other clears/sealers, but usually, I just plan on not handling the parts much after buffing. This entire projects is buffing steel , straight from the can, buffed out. Over time, as needed, I buff it up again. I can not imagine clearing it and chance having it look like a silver paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyglu Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 I use metalizers religiously, they lay down so nice and almost dry instantly. I often use the testors sealer over my metals...to me it is very convincing. I have also used dull coat and wet look clear. I also have yet to find a glossy clear that keeps the shine...mostly when covering alclad chrome. Alclad has there own clear that I believe I will try next, has anyone tried the alclad clear coat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 (edited) Well, I did some experimenting today. I shot the metalizer like always, slick and laid out just right, no peel, perfect. Let it dry a couple hours and buffed it. Looked just like polished aluminum. Shot Testors metalizer sealer over it and it looked like muddy silver paint. Finely-ground-pigment silver paint, and NOT AT ALL LIKE POLISHED ALUMINUM ANY MORE. Edited April 2, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelbuilder Mark Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Well, I did some experimenting today. I shot the metalizer like always, slick and laid out just right, no peel, perfect. Let it dry a couple hours and buffed it. Looked just like polished aluminum. Shot Testors metalizer sealer over it and it looked like muddy silver paint. Finely-ground-pigment silver paint, and NOT AT ALL LIKE POLISHED ALUMINUM ANY MORE. yup, that is my experience. Do not want to end up with "silver" after using Metal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quick GMC Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 You can sand Metallizer and polish out to a mirror finish as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps2u Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Well, I did some experimenting today. I shot the metalizer like always, slick and laid out just right, no peel, perfect. Let it dry a couple hours and buffed it. Looked just like polished aluminum. Shot Testors metalizer sealer over it and it looked like muddy silver paint. Finely-ground-pigment silver paint, and NOT AT ALL LIKE POLISHED ALUMINUM ANY MORE. Same effect when I clear coat or Metalizer sealer. A Buddy of mine has the same issue as well . Now, I spray it polish it & go on. Alclad Polished aluminum is a good product but dulls slightly over time. I'll stick to testors with a hand rub & leave it at that re polish as needed. Otherwise I will go back to Floquil Bright silver if I have to clear coat metalizers not much difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) Today I tried a rattle-can fixative for charcoal & pencil drawings. It smells like hair spray of old and it probably is. Same effect of dulling the polished metalizer to look like silver paint. Next up is a waterborne clear for real cars. It's solvent-free, so maybe it will not disturb the polished surface. Edited April 12, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.