Modlbldr Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I just finished a 65 Mustang and it has some fingerprint smudges and light fogging of the paint on the rear panel from super gluing the rear bumper on. I have some Tamiya Finish Compound and was wondering if I can use this to clean up the body. How do I go about using it? If it can't be used for this, how can I clean the body in the best way? Possibly all of the marks can't be fixed , but I'd like to do the best I can. Any help would be appreciated. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I just finished a 65 Mustang and it has some fingerprint smudges and light fogging of the paint on the rear panel from super gluing the rear bumper on. I have some Tamiya Finish Compound and was wondering if I can use this to clean up the body. How do I go about using it? If it can't be used for this, how can I clean the body in the best way? Possibly all of the marks can't be fixed , but I'd like to do the best I can. Any help would be appreciated. Later- Nope, Tamiya polishing compound will not take care of the issues by themselves, only make them shiny. To take care of the issues you talk about you need to get some fine sand paper(I suggest you get some micromesh) in multiple grades and progressively sand it down to level and then you can polish it out with the fine compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefheart22 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 (edited) Just to chip in my two cents, make sure you polish over the lacquer only with that Tamiya compound. Enamel or acrylic detailing will be wiped clean by that stuff! (I also use the Tamiya compound as "correction fluid" when painting details ) Edited June 9, 2009 by beefheart22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Tamiya compounds are best when used together and used on Tamiya sprays. If the fingerprints are embedded in the paint, you're never getting them out w/finishing compound alone, you will have to cut the paint and buff it traditionally...if there's enough paint. Having all three compounds is the best option for your toolbox. The finish is the least caustic, it's more to put on a final shine. I keep things as easy as possible, since I love using Tamiya compounds on Tamiya sprays, I'll clearcoat nearly anything with Tamiya TS13 clear, so that my wetsanding is kept to a minimum and I can then go to the Tamiya coarse, fine, and finish compounds. Saves an awful lot of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I would have to totally disagree with Pete. I've had similar problems in the past and using a combination of Tamiya Fine then Finish compounds the the smudges were removed. Granted that portion of the body did indeed become very shiny. So the worst part is you go over the entire body with the Finish Compound so the patch you had the smudges on doesn't stand out. Just use caution as you are removing paint even with the Finish Compound and you can find yourself rubbing through to the primer underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 OK guys. Thanks for the replies. I think, though, that I may have not been quite clear enough. The fingerprint smudges are not in the paint. They are just the little oil smudges you get from handling the dried body when applying BMF and such. I painted the model using automotive spray paint from NAPA, then clear coated it with Tamiya clear. After it was dry(6 mo), I BMF'ed it and then I brushed gloss coat lacquer over the BMF(it was old and didn't want to stick well). Then I superlued the parts such as taillights, rear bumper and gas cap. Now I want to clean up the smudges and any fogging. Are your tips still the way to go, or can I just clean the smudges with soap and water and do something else for the fogging? Again, thanks for any help. BTW- this isn't going to be a contest winner by any means, but I just want the best possible display model I can get. Thanks. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 If they're just finger smudges then the finish compound will be fine. The only time I've had superglue fogging it was dry and powdery, and could simply be wiped off. If it's more permanent see if the compound on a Q tip removes it. Avoid kit plated chrome, as it's weak. I use an accelerator for my superglue now on every joint, and it keeps the fogging from occurring. Never a problem anymore... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 OK guys. Thanks for the replies. I think, though, that I may have not been quite clear enough. The fingerprint smudges are not in the paint. They are just the little oil smudges you get from handling the dried body when applying BMF and such. I painted the model using automotive spray paint from NAPA, then clear coated it with Tamiya clear. After it was dry(6 mo), I BMF'ed it and then I brushed gloss coat lacquer over the BMF(it was old and didn't want to stick well). Then I superlued the parts such as taillights, rear bumper and gas cap. Now I want to clean up the smudges and any fogging. Are your tips still the way to go, or can I just clean the smudges with soap and water and do something else for the fogging? Again, thanks for any help. BTW- this isn't going to be a contest winner by any means, but I just want the best possible display model I can get. Thanks. Later- Ah, ok we now have progress. Fingerprint oils are easy. 50/50 mix of alcohol and distilled water. The alcohol cuts the oil and the water keeps if from harming the paint. Just a little on a piece of teeshirt material and a quick couple of wipes. Hit is immediately after with some dry teeshirt. It will also work on the super glue fog with a Qtip one end wet, one dry. Or you could polish the whole thing out with Tamiya polishing compound. I thought you were talking about fingerprints embedded in the paint. The other thing that works for the finger prints is a little Pledge furniture wax on some teeshirt. Just a little bit brings out a nice gloss. I use the liquid out of a spritzer bottle, not the aerosol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 AND, as a plus, it's lemony fresh! Thanks guys. I knew there was a reason I posted this question on here. I'll start with the water and alcohol(water for the model, alcohol for me ). If I need to go further I'll try the finishing compound on a Q-tip. Then, maybe just to see how shiny and fresh I can get it I'll try the Pledge. Thanks again. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefheart22 Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 Ah, ok we now have progress. Fingerprint oils are easy. 50/50 mix of alcohol and distilled water. The alcohol cuts the oil and the water keeps if from harming the paint. Just a little on a piece of teeshirt material and a quick couple of wipes. Hit is immediately after with some dry teeshirt. It will also work on the super glue fog with a Qtip one end wet, one dry. Or you could polish the whole thing out with Tamiya polishing compound. I thought you were talking about fingerprints embedded in the paint. The other thing that works for the finger prints is a little Pledge furniture wax on some teeshirt. Just a little bit brings out a nice gloss. I use the liquid out of a spritzer bottle, not the aerosol. Totally! That compound takes out anything that's not the lacquer spray with one or two wipes. I even use it to clean up the sledge from decal application. (Trick somebody told me in this forum I thinK) I used to use Pledge to detail 1:1 motorcycles. Worked very well for that. Also makes guitars nice and shiny too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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