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'65 Chevelle SS 396 Z-16 (Under Glass 7-July-15)


taaron76

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Since the '67 Chevelle is now Under Glass and ready for the car show this weekend, I figured I'd get started on the '65 tonight. This will be my first attempt at cutting the doors and trunk out, so I figure its gonna take me a little longer than usual. I'll also be using flocking material for the first time as well. I spent about 30 minutes tonight cutting on the trunk and then another 30 making the hinges and mounting them up. I have to order some magnets to mount and see the trunk/doors. This one will be fun!

65Box-vi.jpg

Exterior: Metallic Black

Interior: Dark Gray/Light Gray Combo

Wheels: Custom

Here is what I got done tonight. Thanks for looking!

Tim

651-vi.jpg

652-vi.jpg

Edited by taaron76
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Thanks guys!

Joe, Jim - I look forward to your update every day. You guys do amazing work!!!

Jim - working on the passenger side door as we speak. This one is getting the full detail. Lol

Tim

Edited by taaron76
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Well, I wish hinging the doors was a lot easier than it looks. Cutting the door out was cake, just time consuming. Making the hinge the correct size so it didn't interfere with the rest of the interior and making sure door opened and was level, was another story. Practice makes perfect, hopefully! lol

I ordered some hobby magnets to mount and conceal them in the doors and trunk to keep them closed. I'm using 18 gauge aluminum wire, which makes it strong enough to withhold normal opening and closing, but easy enough to bend and adjust, if needed.

Tim

Here is the passenger side door panels and doors carved out and hinged. Once everything dries good, I will make the door jambs.

PSD3-vi.jpg

Just another shot to show a functioning, level door. There is piece of tape to keep the door closed. I'll crimp the tubing a little more to give it a little bit of friction and make it a little less easy to open.

PSD1-vi.jpg

PSD2-vi.jpg

Typical hinges...

PSD4-vi.jpg

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Great job on hinging the door Tim. Are ya planning to thin down the door and trunk edges a little so when opened, they look a little more like in scale natural body metal thickness? Mostly the outer and lower door edges that can be seen when they are opened. I usually do it. But I never did when I first started out. A guy I became really good friends with over the years taught me about it as my skills progressed. It's just a matter of filing or sanding them in a feather taper from the inside a little back from the edges out to the edges until you get the desired thiness you want on the edges. Not hard to do, but another one of those time consuming things lol. I used to open up alot of my models doors, but, as long as it takes me to build them, It was really slowing down the build times, as if they arent slow enough now lmao. But even if ya leave them as they are, it's still gonna be one cool build my friend.

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Jim - I hadn't really thought about it, but maybe I'll see how this one comes out and go from there. Kinda crawling before I start walking. Lol. That is a good idea, though, and worth pondering.

I was able to get the drivers side cut and hinged tonight, but no time for pics. I'll post some tomorrow for sure. I had a late night MRI scheduled at Walter Reed Military Hospital and just got back. Blasted migraines and headaches! I tell the Doc that the cure is more car modeling... He doesn't seem to think so. It was worth a shot...

Tim

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Jim - I hadn't really thought about it, but maybe I'll see how this one comes out and go from there. Kinda crawling before I start walking. Lol. That is a good idea, though, and worth pondering.

I was able to get the drivers side cut and hinged tonight, but no time for pics. I'll post some tomorrow for sure. I had a late night MRI scheduled at Walter Reed Military Hospital and just got back. Blasted migraines and headaches! I tell the Doc that the cure is more car modeling... He doesn't seem to think so. It was worth a shot...

Tim

LOL I hear ya Tim. I always believe the cure for anything is more car modeling. I agree with ya about trying new things. Try a few each model and see where it leads ya lol.

Jim

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The doors and trunk and cut out and hinged. Now I gotta work on how I'm going to mount the door panels. Trying to figure out if I should mount them and fill the voids with styrene and then paint, or paint everything and then join them after paint.

I worked a little on the mockup stance with the wheels I'm going to use. The front is as low as I can get it before I started digging into the fender wells in the engine bay. The wheels in the back are a little bigger, but I think this stance will work.

Stance1-vi.jpg

Here is the stance with the doors and trunk open. I'm excited to plugging away on this one. I'm hoping to get some paint on it by this weekend.

DO1-vi.jpg

DO2-vi.jpg

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What I did was cut out some styrene and shaped it to the door and door panel. I glued and mounted the styrene to the door, that way I can paint the door jamb the same color as the body color and not have to worry about masking the door panels off. The door and door panel won't be glued together until final assembly. I will do the exact same thing for the door jamb on the quarter panel side of the car. Now that I've planned it out and tested my design, its a little easier than I anticipated.

I still have to smooth out the styrene and put a dab of putty in there to cover the gap between the door and styrene itself, but I think primer might fill that void as well. I test fit the door back in and everything lines up and the door opens and closes with no issues.

Tim

DoorJamb-vi.jpg

Edited by taaron76
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More progress today as I finished up the trunk. I cut some styrene out and glued a piece under the trunk lid and to the bumper. I drilled out a hole for the magnet on both sides to keep the trunk closed. I also glued some styrene to the insides of the trunk area to keep it level. Works perfect!

Tim

Trunk3-vi.jpg

Trunk2-vi.jpg

Trunk1-vi.jpg

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Since gravity usually does a good job of keeping hoods and trunks closed when sitting on a level flat surface, I'd like to suggest on future builds where you have opening hoods and trunks that figuring out a way to use magnets to keep the hoods and trunks open for display purposes may be a better use for your magnets.

Configuring your magnets so the hoods and trunks are held open will remove the need for "prop rods" which are not needed on real cars due to the coil or torsion springs (and in a lot of cases these days, gas struts) used to hold them open.

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Since gravity usually does a good job of keeping hoods and trunks closed when sitting on a level flat surface, I'd like to suggest on future builds where you have opening hoods and trunks that figuring out a way to use magnets to keep the hoods and trunks open for display purposes may be a better use for your magnets.

Configuring your magnets so the hoods and trunks are held open will remove the need for "prop rods" which are not needed on real cars due to the coil or torsion springs (and in a lot of cases these days, gas struts) used to hold them open.

In the real world of automotive, you have gravity and you have weight and usually a lot of it. Plastic... Not so much. I build the hinges with resistance that keeps the doors and trunk open when I want them to stay open, and closed with the magnets when I need them to stay closed. I'm sure someone has built something to make the hood stay open without a prop, but that's a little bit much for me to try to consider right now.

Most cars built today have prop rods... Not all of them, but most of them.

There is a way to use magnet to keep the hood open, I just have to get the engineer in me to put it on paper.

Tim

Edited by taaron76
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