1/18 Duesenberg wire wheels

[ChrisBcritter]

As others here have, I've considered this same method for improving wire wheels, and this proves it can really work! The rest of that chassis is amazing as well. Hope to see the finished car here soon.

I found normal modeling tools such as files, chisels, bench grinders, and sledge hammers worked well.

Now I don't feel so bad about the fistfight it took to put together one of their Model A kits when I was eleven...

Edited March 9, 2014 by ChrisBcritter

[TomN]

Hi Bob

Beautiful work on the wheels...inspiring too! So inspiring I just bought the same kit on eBay!

It will have to wait a while, into armor modeling at the moment. I remember your Stuart from AMPS in Indiana,

what an amazing model! I took lots of pics.

I'm assuming you painted the whitewalls, may I ask what you used? It looks perfect!

Any chance you will be at AMPS 2014?

Thanks for the inspiration!

Tom

[BSteinIPMS]

Hi Bob

Beautiful work on the wheels...inspiring too! So inspiring I just bought the same kit on eBay!

It will have to wait a while, into armor modeling at the moment. I remember your Stuart from AMPS in Indiana,

what an amazing model! I took lots of pics.

I'm assuming you painted the whitewalls, may I ask what you used? It looks perfect!

Any chance you will be at AMPS 2014?

Thanks for the inspiration!

Tom

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the kind words regarding the wire wheels and my 1/6 scale M5A1 Stuart; much appreciated! I wrote a book published by Schiffer on that build which you may be aware of and which is still available:

http://www.amazon.com/Large-Scale-Armor-Modeling-Building/dp/0764339532/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395072948&sr=8-1&keywords=large+scale+armor+modeling

And yes, the whitewalls were masked off and airbrushed with White Ensign Models White. This paint comes in the little tinlets that Humbrol uses and may very well be the same paint. I carefully selected this particular white since it was the first white paint I laid my eyes on when I looked at my paint shelf. Not any more scientific than that, I'm afraid. To keep the paint from cracking while I flexed the tires over the Chrome-painted rims, I sealed the white with an airbrushed satin mixture of Testors Glosscote and Dullcote. So far, so good.

I won't make it to AMPS in 2014, I'm afraid. I'm too busy teaching two teenage drama queens how to drive. It's okay to feel sorry for me.

Cheers!

--Bob

[LWBNomad]

Fantastic work!!!! I, too, am building one of these old Hubley Duesenberg kits and I have been planning to make wheels much the way you have just done (I just purchased .015" music wire & drills yesterday). Thank you for sharing your results - and blazing a trail for me. I can't wait t see the final results of your build.

It's taken many hours of labour to clean up these horrid old metal castings, and I'm not finished yet. I'm sure my wife thinks I'm crazy. But the results will be worth it.

Edited March 22, 2014 by LWBNomad

[Mizozuman2]

Duesenberg SJ LeBaron Dual-cowl sweep panel phaeton.

If that's not a mouth full of a car name, I don't know what is! LOL

Great looking wheels too!

[ChrisBcritter]

Got my .015 wire today too; probably will try to do the stock wheels for my Monogram '34 Ford cabriolet. It'll either look good or it may just put me in the room with the rubber walls once and for all.

[BSteinIPMS]

There's a lot you can do to the underside as well if you want to invest the time. You can always cut the hood lengthwise and install working photoetch piano hinges that operate realistically. You just have to decide if: 1.) You want to spend the time and effort, and.....2). You come to the realization that you're really not very well....

Cheers!

--Bob

Edited March 23, 2014 by BSteinIPMS

[lanesteele240]

Man you have a awesome build going on. Looks great.

[TomN]

Hi Bob

More amazing work for sure!

Hope you don't mind lots of question...

I was going to ask if you had any plans to hinge the hood, but I see you are already there. How did you attach the hinge to the hood?

What photo etch did you use for the mesh on the hood?

Is that an aftermarket grill? Or the kit part?

Are you writing a book about this?

Oh, and please stay not very well, lol!

Thanks,

Tom

[LWBNomad]

I'm wondering if there are drawings somewhere for a Duesenberg that might have dimensions for the details you've added to the chassis? Since acquiring this kit, I've been sort of struggling with how far to go with improvements to the basic Hubley architecture. I think they got the proportions and stance correct but, of course, they abbreviated the detail as it just was not expected in the early sixties, not to mention price point and all the commercial considerations. Correcting the wheels is a major step, but I should like to go further than that. How far is the question.

I had this kit when I was about 15 or 16; built it out of the box, painted it green just like the box illustration and loved the car. But it was too big to go with me when I left home and that one is lost to history. I bought the phaeton AND the town car kits on ebay just a while ago. Doing the Phaeton first.

Edited March 24, 2014 by LWBNomad

[BSteinIPMS]

Hi Bob

More amazing work for sure!

Hope you don't mind lots of question...

I was going to ask if you had any plans to hinge the hood, but I see you are already there. How did you attach the hinge to the hood?

What photo etch did you use for the mesh on the hood?

Is that an aftermarket grill? Or the kit part?

Are you writing a book about this?

Oh, and please stay not very well, lol!

Thanks,

Tom

Hi Tom,

I don't mind questions at all, so fire away. To answer your current ones:

1. The piano hinges were glued to the three hood panels with CA glue, then strips cut from the photoetch fret were cemented along each side of each hinge to clean them up visually as well as to more firmly anchor them down to the hood panels. I used JB WELD to fill in depressions in the casting and also to blend in the hinges to the hood. Despite cleaning up the hinges visually, they aren't visible from the inside when the hood panels are open on the model, just visible on the outside. Where I think they look very good.

2. The brass photoetch mesh/screening/grill work is from Plano Model Products, found in the railroad section of my hobby shop. Or you can find their various photoetch products online.

3. If you are referring to the grill on the hood panels, the chrome side screens given in the kit had their centers cut out and replaced with the brass screen for better visual appeal. It's not a perfect pattern match for the real Duesenberg, but it looks close and is far better than solid plastic. If you mean the main radiator, it's the kit part with the chrome plating stripped off.

4. I'm not writing a book, but I am hoping to interest Gregg Hutchings at MCM in an article on this build.

5. I haven't been very well all my life, and it's much too late to change now!

Cheers!

--Bob

Edited March 24, 2014 by BSteinIPMS

[BSteinIPMS]

I'm wondering if there are drawings somewhere for a Duesenberg that might have dimensions for the details you've added to the chassis? Since acquiring this kit, I've been sort of struggling with how far to go with improvements to the basic Hubley architecture. I think they got the proportions and stance correct but, of course, they abbreviated the detail as it just was not expected in the early sixties, not to mention price point and all the commercial considerations. Correcting the wheels is a major step, but I should like to go further than that. How far is the question.

I had this kit when I was about 15 or 16; built it out of the box, painted it green just like the box illustration and loved the car. But it was too big to go with me when I left home and that one is lost to history. I bought the phaeton AND the town car kits on ebay just a while ago. Doing the Phaeton first.

Hi Stan,

There are several avenues open to you for dimensional data on the Duesenberg. One is the ACD (Auburn Cord Duesenberg) Museum in Auburn, Indiana. Their reference library is stuffed with blueprints, drawings, photos, and data. It can get a bit spendy purchasing items from them, though. If you're a member - like me - you'll get a 10% discount on anything you buy from the store.

http://www.automobilemuseum.org/

Another avenue is the ACD Club (online forum): http://forums.acdclub.org/phpbb2/index.php

Next, you can do a google image search for whatever you're looking for, and this can be used to good effect.

Last, if you have the stomach for it, check out Louis Chernot's 14-year build of a Duesy at the Internet Craftsmanship Museum:

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Chenot.htm

Cheers!

--Bob

[LWBNomad]

Thank you for the information, Bob! I love your work! Please post more as you progress.

[TomN]

Hey Bob

Thanks for the info, Plano huh, never thought of them...and I'm into trains too!

Was cutting the top of the hood a difficult job? Hint, hint...how did you do it?

I picked up the Duesenberg town car on eBay for a good price, now I see that the radiator is the kit part. Are you planning to use Alclad for all the chrome?

I'm thinking I'd like to do the Packard Roadster, if I ever get around to building on of these, keeping my eye on eBay.

Looking forward to more of your progress,

Tom

[BSteinIPMS]

Hey Bob

Thanks for the info, Plano huh, never thought of them...and I'm into trains too!

Was cutting the top of the hood a difficult job? Hint, hint...how did you do it?

I picked up the Duesenberg town car on eBay for a good price, now I see that the radiator is the kit part. Are you planning to use Alclad for all the chrome?

I'm thinking I'd like to do the Packard Roadster, if I ever get around to building on of these, keeping my eye on eBay.

Looking forward to more of your progress,

Tom

Hi Tom,

I cut the hood longitudinally (lengthwise on my miniature table saw, a 30-second job. A hacksaw would make too wide a kerf, but an X-ACTO razor saw might do the job if the teeth on the saw blade hold out.

Yes, Alclad II Chrome for all the stripped chrome parts in the kit. You can check out Alclad's Website for lots of good information.

http://alclad2.com/

The Chrome requires an airbrushed gloss black base coat for best effect, and an airbrushed top coat of Alclad II Aqua-Kleer Kote Gloss is suggested if you're going to handle the Chrome-painted parts much.

Cheers!

--Bob

[sjordan2]

What is the length of the piano hinge?

[BSteinIPMS]

What is the length of the piano hinge?

Hi Skip,

The model requires a 3" piano hinge for all three places on the hood panels, but the Model Car Garage Big Rig hinges are only 2 1/2" long. No matter: it's a simple operation to splice in the extra amount from another MCG Big Rig kit.

Cheers!

--Bob

Edited March 30, 2014 by BSteinIPMS

[sjordan2]

Hi Skip,

The model requires a 3" piano hinge for all three places on the hood panels, but the Model Car Garage Big Rig hinges are only 2 1/2" long. No matter: it's a simple operation to splice in the extra amount from another MCG Big Rig kit.

Cheers!

--Bob

Thank you.

[LWBNomad]

Bob, are you using Plastruct hexagonal rod for bolt heads?

[BSteinIPMS]

Bob, are you using Plastruct hexagonal rod for bolt heads?

Hi Stan,

No, although I have that in stock in 3 different sizes. All of the styrene nuts, bolts, washers, and rivets are from Tichy Train Group and are in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. The model railroad section of my local hobby shop carries literally hundreds of these railroad items and many are perfect for car models.

The TTG Website is at: http://www.tichytraingroup.com/Default.aspx

You can download their catalogs there, and they're free.

I've also used a number of brass hex-head bolts, nuts, and washers in four sizes for the larger hardware, such as steering and suspension. From large to small, these are: 2-56, 1-72, 0-80, and 00-90. These come from two places:

Walthers: http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=sbs&start=30

Micro Fasteners: http://www.microfasteners.com/

The Micro Fasteners hardware is a bit less expensive and the brass is harder. I use this primarily, but the Walthers softer brass is better when you have to drill out a nut or a bolt to install locking hardware, such as cotter pins.

Cheers!

--Bob

[f1ford48]

Great amount of information and talent here-the wheels are fantastic and the alclad finish is perfect-real chrome is too shiny on these models-they now look like real steel.[almost are!]

I noticed you use many suppliers-do you know where I can buy scale chain and sprockets for my Historic racers? 1/16- and 1/8 scale cars? I know it must be out there.

I look foreward to seeing more of this build.

[sjordan2]

Great amount of information and talent here-the wheels are fantastic and the alclad finish is perfect-real chrome is too shiny on these models-they now look like real steel.[almost are!]

I noticed you use many suppliers-do you know where I can buy scale chain and sprockets for my Historic racers? 1/16- and 1/8 scale cars? I know it must be out there.

I look foreward to seeing more of this build.

That's also something that can be found in model train or military parts. Assembled chain up to 6" in length has been available from Grandt Line, but I'm sure Bob has info on PE chains, for assembly link by link and pin by pin. I have Grandt Line chain that's pretty nice, made in Delrin. I could really use smaller working chain for my Bugatti's brake cable system. This is Grandt Line Delrin chain, part # 70001, shown at about 200%. However, in trying to get the right web link, they say that this product, including sprockets, is temporarily discontinued (found under military model parts, which could be another source to search).

Edited March 31, 2014 by sjordan2

[f1ford48]

If im not mistaken thats the same chain I used on OLD 16. I think there must be a scale chain out there possibly used by clock makers ??? in brass ...the Pocher Fiat chain is very nice but one would have to buy a kit to obtain it.

[Modelmartin]

Jeez, Bob! You had to go and build a car and embarass all of us car builders! Thanks a bunch!

[LWBNomad]

Well, thanks again for the useful information, Bob. I picked up some 00-90 hex-head bolts that are sold here under the brand name Hob-Bits, by Woodland Scenics out of Linn Creek MO. I'm still experimenting with drilling .016 holes in the Duesie's rims. I now have a half dozen different pin-vices, but I keep breaking these tiny drill bits. Today I bought a Zona with a free-spinning palm knob that looks like it ought to be more user-friendly. But I've also ordered some carbide bits and figured out a jig that ought to speed up drilling holes for the 468 spokes - especially so if I can use it on my drill press. If it works, I'll post some photos of it.