MikeMc Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) Here are the basics......foam bonded together, Hardcoat of plaster cloth for sculpted hills. I am planning to set the base of the garage shown in the Hydrocal with a simple trench around , then adding my gravel and weed cover. My need to know is will I need to plug or "glass cloth" for hydrocal to stick to the foam. The "plastic barrier" was removed from the foam and it will be roughed up before skinning with hydrocal. This will be a photo base so it will be stationary, so flexing will not be an issue Edited July 11, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eshaver Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Mike , I'll ask a couple of rail road builders ......... Ed Shaver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 I do not have any Sculptamold around..just hydrocal...thanks for any leads! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielG Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I use plaster to shield the foam from resin, so yes, it will stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) Yep it sure does! Thanks!! Smoothed foam out , covered with plaster cloth, painted slurry of hydrocal over that, mixed up a couple more coats with liquid pigment and hydrocal brushed on and is drying now can't wait to start working on the centerpiece from SMBC.... Edited June 24, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra7c7er Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Looks really cool. Can't wait to see the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Gringo Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I will be following this build keep up the great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 Have had success with the base and adding rock at the bottom of the hills....still a lot more work there. But I did test fit the building together and after a good coat of T235 grey primer on both sides...which looks like concrete / mortar I went to the craft paint section at Michaels and splurged.....3 @$2.00 Then it was off to the kitchen where I cut off a piece of sponge or three, grabbed some paper plates, latex glove , and the back wall of the building...if it wasn't going to work, I could hide it better out back! Started it off with yellow...I went too light the first coat, as the paint being flat really was opaque and light...when I liked that I went to the pea green...and then bits of brown here and there...I had to slow down on the brown...just needed a bit...I can re hit the yellow and green if needed to tone things down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) This turned out well for my first time...I will still need to do a black wash and detail paint the trim and interior....heres a few more shots I used a bit more brown on the doors,may go back and salt them if the mood hits me...I love the mortar lines with this style of painting. Edit...I have since repainted these walls with much more of the green The Yellow was causing color balance problems with flash..I will update as soon as paint permits me to. Edited July 6, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMust Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Just a thought Mike, but had you considered giving some thickness to the walls...... especially the section around the two openings? Concrete block walls would be at least 10" and more likely 12" thick on a building like this..... but even 3/16" thick foamboard would give it more reality although underscale. You probably have already considered this, but I'm just curious. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 Just a thought Mike, but had you considered giving some thickness to the walls...... especially the section around the two openings? Concrete block walls would be at least 10" and more likely 12" thick on a building like this..... but even 3/16" thick foamboard would give it more reality although underscale. You probably have already considered this, but I'm just curious. Tony Yes I have...you are correct, as this is 1/2 " scale those walls would be thicker in scale what I was thinking was to make the inner walls thicker with some "sheet" brick glued up inside, but the corners will fight me... I'm fighting through many ideas as this is my first try...too many ideas , not enough space and $$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMust Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 The way the kit is designed it will be a bit of a problem. Perhaps just thickening the front wall and the interior wall would help. Once the roof is on, you won't notice the thickness of the other three exterior walls so much. You may want to consider cutting out the doors and setting them back behind the wall to give them a recessed look, as well. Don't mean to be a "buttinski"..... just a couple of things I noticed. Cheers, Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 The way the kit is designed it will be a bit of a problem. Perhaps just thickening the front wall and the interior wall would help. Once the roof is on, you won't notice the thickness of the other three exterior walls so much. You may want to consider cutting out the doors and setting them back behind the wall to give them a recessed look, as well. Don't mean to be a "buttinski"..... just a couple of things I noticed. Cheers, Tony Thats why I posted it here....as a newbie, I gotta learn these things. I'm thinking of doing just the front wall, and the kit only comes with the fixed doors. As the idea is a old weatherbeaten tin roof shed in the woods..It don't need any doors I am making a lift off roof, not sure if I'm going to truss it or just go flat and pitch it for drainage.... Thanks for the input!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim B Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Did I miss something? What "kit" is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Did I miss something? What "kit" is this? SMBC kit.....he has a few different ones....... http://www.scalemodelingbychris.com/3baygarage.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eshaver Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Mike, you can make an operating Overhead door . You make slides by using some .060 Evergreen cut to about 1/8th of an inch . Use .010 Evergreen glued to the .060 sides to make a "U " shaped channel. The doors will slide with in this channel if you use some Evergreen "Half- Round " behind the door as the "Rollers ". The door sections were cut into 1 " sections with take adhered to the back side . This allows the door to "Hinge " . The radus needed that I use is a simple 16 oz paint can . Ed Shaver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Did some "scenic" stuff this weekend. Started with a bit of earth colored turf to blend and tone things a bit... Used white glue and dish soap then dusted the turf down to the surface, then misted more white glue mix over it ...time to dry, So I'm going to make trees. Woodland sells this good stuff in different colors, a bit of the scenic glue on the bare tree armatures and when its dry its sticky...REALLY !!! Heres half done, this group is 3 different sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 While the trees were drying I started the hill cover with whiteglue, soapwater and a couple of different colors of foam...burnt grass and light grass....sprinkled some earth and fine cinders over the top for some depth, then spray it again with glue solution....it will dry in a couple of days due to the density of the foam and how thick it is in spots. Once its dry then I will plant those trees and then I can finally set the building down and blend that base in with some hydrocal.....this batch will have to be tinted concrete, then the gravel will look better on it...then some weeds a bit of adjusting and then the Weathering, roof and interior will follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) New Goal was to get the corner trim on and to make a roof from some foam board and styrene so I can lay some metal roofing across it. Seemed to come together without a hitch...The kit corners came up just enough for the foam core to sit nicely, I then took some 6mm angle and made a frame so I had a base for the ribbed sheet roof I'm going to use...when done that will be the edge flashing. Best part is that it will lift on and off w/o any fighting!! Ran out of ribbed roofing I'll have to order another as that was the last at the train store...but it does look good, will fit with a small trimming and should weather well!! Edited July 12, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Looking pretty good there, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMust Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hey Mike, you're doing a neat building job there. I'm gonna stick my nose in again on a reality issue that may be worth noting for future builds. Metal ribbed roofing is only used on a sloping roof... not a flat one. The seams between the individual sheets would buckle and the roof would leak like a sieve! And there would be no runoff to keep the water from laying in the low spots on the roof and causing more leaks. Plus it wouldn't be strong enough to support the weight of a person without buckling badly. A flat roof would probably be tar and gravel, and this can easily be modelled with a coarse grit wet and dry paper... maybe 80 grit or lower, real cheap at the hardware store. The edge of the roof would have at least a 9" high parapet with a flashing over it and angled down to the roof to direct the rain water. Sometimes, on some structures, an opening would be made through the parapet at various locations around the roof and the water allowed to spill out into a hopper and then a downspout to the ground. Other times, a central drain would be located on the roof and the downpipe carried inside the roof structure to an outside wall, where it would turn and go down into the floor and out to the sewer. However, having said all that (!), in your particular scenario of an old run down garage in the woods, most likely the building would have a pitched roof with old framing timbers cut down from the trees around the area. Just a few details that may help on this or future builds. Hope you don't mind these suggestions from a retired architect. Great job on the trees and bushes, etc. Looks very realistic. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thanks for the input Tony.. .That has been my fight all along I see and have pictures of many ribbed roofs, and they are always pitched...my issue is what to make the "sides" from.....siding or bricks...As I have a good flat surface I should be able to come up with the trusses needed......and I do need more ribbed roofing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMust Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) As you already have a flat roof, that could represent the inside "ceiling". A couple of pieces of 3/16" foam core board cut at a triangle shape would represnt the gable ends. Remember that a standard roof pitch is 4:12, that is four high to twelve long. So if your model is 12" from front to back, the centre of the triangle would be 6" inches from each wall. Using the 4:12 rule, the top of the triangle (the "ridge" line of the roof) would be 2" high (half of 4"). Hope this makes sense. The surface of the gable end walls could be covered with very thin 1/32" basswood to look like plywood or scored to look like old siding boards, and stained to appear weathered over the years. Then use more foamcore board to make the two roof slopes, allowing about a 3/16" or 1/4" minimum overhang around the building, add some basswood strip or thick cardboard fascia boards around the foamcore exposed edges and then cover the foamcore with your metal roofing allowing it to overhang the fascia by about 1/16". Along the ridge line at the top of the roof, bend pieces of 1/2" wide thin card and glue them lengthwise over the point where the front and rear roofs meet, to cover the gap. Adding bent or broken eavestrough made from old drinking straws cut in half lengthways and styrene rod for downpipes could then add to the realism... but not absolutely necessary. The whole roof structure can be built independent of the walls and can easily be lifted off. If you want to go this route but are unclear about any of the suggestions I made, feel free to ask. Tony Edited July 13, 2011 by GTMust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) THANK YOU TONY!!!!!! That is exactly what I will do.....I was thinking too much with the trusses...I have some 6mm L shaped styrene that will work perfect for both the fascia and ridge. The flat roof is a lift off already...this will work!! I have some bass planking that I use for pickup beds....perfect idea for the sides.....I still need more ribbed roofing and another foamcore, but thats no problem!! Edited July 13, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMust Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 You're very welcome Mike. I can't wait to see the next progrees pics. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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