NJJeff Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Soaked, scrubbed and sanded the underside of a resin funny car body. Painted it with Tamiya semi-gloss black. All was fine except where I had agressively removed material to thin it for a more scale appearance and thickness.In those areas the paint remained tacky even after several hours....(sigh) Sooooo, I sanded it all down until the paint was gone, then re-scrubbed everything, then applied two medium coats of Tamiya fine surface primer. Waited an hour or so.....great! No stickiness... Then applied 3 light coats of Tamiya semi-gloss black and.....it's WORSE. I'm assuming that in the areas where I removed a lot of material, its weeping resin residue or something... Anyone seen this before and more importantly, how the heck do I get it to stop????? The shiny spot arount the blower opening is still VERY tacky after several hours....HELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 You need to soak it again for 24 hours in Bleche white ....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJJeff Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 Thanks Donn, I'm kinda new to resin. I've built 3 cars so far using resin bodies and have had 3 different adventures with them. Thought I had it figured out this time, but apparently not, lol. I resanded, recleaned and reprimed....again....but this time used Testors lacquer over the Tamiya primer and no issues. Must be some difference in the paint......but next time it'll spend more time in the bleach.... Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJJeff Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 Update: it must have been because I soaked the body prior to all the material removal. Sanding that deep must have uncovered fresh resin because I later painted the outside of the body with no issues at all. Now I know to resoak post-sanding as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Who made the resin kit by the way? What little resin I've messed with, I've never had a problem like that. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 I had that problem once with some resin wheels and it seemed the resin had not set up properly. I contacted the maker and he apologized and sent me all new ones X 2. that was mini exotics I believe but if you bought this body from the maker I would check into a replacement or at least let him know youre having problems. It may have just been the resin was reacting to the Tamiya paint but you wouldn't think that would happen especially through primer. I think the resin is just not cured properly. jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJJeff Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 It's a Competition Resins body. I've used rwo others in the past with no issues like this. Here's where it gets really ugly. After my success with the underside, I masked it off, primered and painted the topside. It came out great. There's a pic on thworkbench forum under War Eagle WIP. I went to bed a happy camper. This morning when I checked it, all the gooey spots had returned on both sides.....so after briefly contemplating stomping on it, I left it on the porch to cure when I went to work. When I got home, there was no change. Still tacky (like masking tape) everywhere I had agressively removed material. I sighed, gave it a swim in lacquer thinner, removed all the paint, scrubbed it , dried it and threw it overboard in fresh Bleche-White. Four hours later, I removed it, scrubbed it, wet sanded it with 2000 grit sandpaper, and dumped it back in the cleaner where it will remain until tomorrow night. I'll scrub it again, primer it and wait another day. If the issue returns, well, thats it, I'm done with it. I've already got about 20 hours into this body and that's too much. I sent Roger (Comp Resins) a note about my issue but havent heard back yet. I could put a firecracker under it, set it off, and glue what remains of the front clip on the chassis and viola', a blower explosion diorama... And thanks for the notes, its nice to have the support and help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJJeff Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Ok folks, thats it. I quit. 24 hour soak in Bleche-White, rinsed, scrubbed with dish detergent, then a 2 hour soak in Spray-Nine, rinsed, scrubbed, rinsed, and an isopropanol alcohol rinse. Primed, and painted. 2 hours later, the leaching returned in all the same spots. This body is unusable. I am extremely frustrated. I've absolutely wasted 20 plus hours on this body, plus the chassis was painted and detailed for this specific car..... I expect challenges and issues on every build but this is too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Joseph Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 When a resin part oozes or leaches, it's usually due to the two resin components not being mixed thoroughly or very out-of-date components. There's not a whole lot you can do about it. Sometimes... just sometimes... you can bake the piece in an oven at around 125-150 degrees F for a few hours and it will help the un-cured resin to solidify. If you ever get a part that is leaching an oily residue, don't bother trying to "fix" it. Immediately contact the maker and ask for a replacement part. If they are reputable, they'll replace the part or at least give you a refund. There really should be a "resin-caster seal of approval" or something because casting resin pieces isn't terribly difficult, but it does require attention to detail and a certain level of competency. Anybody who trades resin parts for money should at least know what they are doing and be willing to quickly resolve problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJJeff Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Thanks Joe, I appreciate the info. Because I'm a glutton for punishment, I even restripped it, recleaned it and shot it with enamel. Same result. I'll try contacting the manufacturer again. My first note went unanswered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 When a resin part oozes or leaches, it's usually due to the two resin components not being mixed thoroughly or very out-of-date components. There's not a whole lot you can do about it. Sometimes... just sometimes... you can bake the piece in an oven at around 125-150 degrees F for a few hours and it will help the un-cured resin to solidify. If you ever get a part that is leaching an oily residue, don't bother trying to "fix" it. Immediately contact the maker and ask for a replacement part. If they are reputable, they'll replace the part or at least give you a refund. There really should be a "resin-caster seal of approval" or something because casting resin pieces isn't terribly difficult, but it does require attention to detail and a certain level of competency. Anybody who trades resin parts for money should at least know what they are doing and be willing to quickly resolve problems Joseph is correct, this happens when part A and B are not throughly mixed. The only way I have been able to stop it is by spraying it with automotive sealer. I can't remember the brand, since I don't do a whole lot of building any more. If you have an auto paint shop in your area, I recommend asking for the best sealer they have. If you can't use an airgun, then have them can it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Thanks Joe, I appreciate the info. Because I'm a glutton for punishment, I even restripped it, recleaned it and shot it with enamel. Same result. I'll try contacting the manufacturer again. My first note went unanswered. Trying to fix the problem is a waste of time and material, the source is defective resin. It just happens some times! Any good supplier would understand this and replace the piece in question upon request. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Before you give up try BIN Sealer as base/primer. Get at Home Depot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 if you could really and truly seal it off from any contact with air, it might arrest the problem. might being the key word. more likely it will act fine for a while, a few years maybe, but eventually it is going to show up again and/or the resin is going to get soft again. Unfortunately I don't think I would put any time into it at this point, anything you do is liable to get ruined later as it ages. Kind of a total waste probably. I am sure any reputable resin caster would replace it, or if that were not possible, refund your money or ask you to choose something else from their stock. jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJJeff Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Update 7/30: Kudos to Roger at Competition Resins who promptly responded to my email regarding the issues I was having with the resin body. He shipped a replacement at no cost to me which arrived in less than a week. I cleaned, prepped, primed and painted it with no issues. I think James is correct. I don't think a bad casting can be salvaged. I tried everything I could think of but nothing helped. All I did was waste time and a lot of paint. Thanks to all for your thoughts and suggestions. Another lesson learnedalong the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwrass Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Jeff, Good luck with the rest of the build!! I personally am glad you didn't throw in the towel! Looking forward to watching the rest of this one!! Much heap good mojo the rest of the way!!!! jwrass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Glad to hear that you're a "happy camper" again Jeff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Good to hear! Being on a world wide spotlight like MCM Forum helps too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunajammer Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 This entire thread has been an education. Thanks for the photos, responses and follow up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Glad to see that the problem was solved, but I have a question. One resin seller indicates that you shouldn't use plastic paints on resin, but an automotive type. I've got two bodies that I'm working up to build and wonder whether the type of paint matters or not. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Glad to see that the problem was solved, but I have a question. One resin seller indicates that you shouldn't use plastic paints on resin, but an automotive type. I've got two bodies that I'm working up to build and wonder whether the type of paint matters or not. Any thoughts? I've never noticed any difference between using hobby paints on resin castings (although I would wonder about the adhesion of say, water-borne paints such as Modelmaster Acryl or Tamiya's waterborne enamels) and automotive lacquers and enamels. For me, just about any enamel or lacquer works just fine on a resin body. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 agree with Art and especially if you soak the piece in Wesleys BleechWhite for a night and then prime before painting...never had a problem with paint adhesion jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 agree with Art and especially if you soak the piece in Wesleys BleechWhite for a night and then prime before painting...never had a problem with paint adhesion jb And, if you have a problem finding Westley's, be advised that the active detergent ingredient in Bleche-White is "trisodium phosphate" (aka TSP), and that is also available in good old "Spic N Span", the powdered cleaning agent found in just about every cleaning supplies aisle in supermarkets and "big box" stores. In addition, TSP can be found in just about any paint or home improvements store--it's also used for lifting silicone polishes (Johnson's Pledge) out of wood prior to refinishing. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.