vintagedragfan Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 excellent fabricating Alyn!! maybe you should come and give me a hand with my chassis, while I watch!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 Dix one thing, and cause more work, isn't that always the way it goes? Great work on the front end, that's a neat way to eliminate the old steel wire axle! Mike, my problem is that if I want to change something, it result in the need to change 5 other thngs to accomodate it. Build some spindles to replace the steel axle; gotta build a tie rod, gotta build a pitman arm and/or drag link to tie into the steering box, new spindles too small, gotta modify the wheel hub, blah, blah, blah ... Thanks, Darren. I have a problem of never throwing stuff away, but sometimes things finally do come in handy. Bill, I'd crash and burn not knowing what knob to turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 hello ello lo, so quiet here there is an echo, we are waiting on some updates Alyn!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 I wrapped up the steering linkage. With thin parts like this, brass is a must for strength. This pic shows the assembled links. The drag link still needs to be shorten to the proper length, so it's not soldered to the end that attaches to the tie rod yet. AMT's kit does not include a steering box. I scratched one up using a rectangular block of styrene, round tube and flat styrene. Some bolts were added for more detail.This box was not patterned after a real Model-T box; just something generic to fill the void. Here's the draglink & pitman arm in place. The truck will have working steering, although there will be no gear reduction. The steering shaft simply goes straight through the steering box to rotate the pitman arm. I also built a hand brake lever. I wanted to have a clear separation between the brake lever and the lock/release rod that runs parallel to it. The kit supplied part does not represent this detail well. The handle end was turned in a Dremel to add a bit of character. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Outstanding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Here's some mock up pics with the latest additions. Brake lever, steering and pedals in place: Steering column simply runs straight through the steering box: Also got some paint work done on the intake/exhaust manifold assembly. This will gets some weathering and a couple of details for the simple carburetor: thanks for following along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Outstanding! Thanks Danno ! I may have to change your nickname from Snydley Wiplash to Quick Draw McGraw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Mike Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I give up...between you and Bill, I'm never gonna get past the "playing with plastic" stage! You are doing unbelievable work buddy, that linkage and steering assembly is great, but the hand brake? Did you really have to do that, you're killing me man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 i'm waiting for the mechanical brakes - i know they're coming ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 I give up...between you and Bill, I'm never gonna get past the "playing with plastic" stage! You are doing unbelievable work buddy, that linkage and steering assembly is great, but the hand brake? Did you really have to do that, you're killing me man! Come on Mike. As they say; Just Do It! Grab some brass and file away. I build with metal when the extra strength is needed, especially for small, intricate parts, or to get the natural metal finish. Bill builds with metal because he has to. He has plasitic alergies. He even has to buy leather seats in his cars to avoid touching vinyl. Joe, I'm guessing you noticed the lever arms for the brake rods. I will be adding the levers and rods for the mechanical brakes, but that's as far as the detail will go. Thanks for taking a peek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Mike Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Oh come on Alyn, don't wimp out, make the brakes too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 WOW Alyn, very impressive work (as usual) that stuff is soooo tedious! turned out fantastic!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Gorgeous work, Alyn. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy D Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Hi Alyn, I'm constantly impressed by your skill set!!!! Wonderful details Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 (edited) Thanks, guys. I appreciate your interest and support. I moved the ball a bit more the past few days. First off, some advice. Don't glue the front axle on backwards I did, and now have to cover up the groove meant to accomodate the metal axle. I added a strip of square styrene across the top to mimic the upper flange of the beam axle, and added a couple of chunks on each end to fill in the gap where the knuckles attach. Next time I'll pay attention. No battery in the kit, so I scratch built one. It's simply a block of styrene with a flange around the upper edge. Round styrene was used for the caps, and aluminum rod for the posts. The cable clamps are metal zipper teeth that are filed down a bit and modified to accept the braided ground strap and live cable. The other end of the strap will be finished similar to the one I showed previously. The Champion emblem is a dry transfer from a pinewood derby sticker sheet. Bracketry to hold the battery is square section styrene rod, cut and fit into place. You can see that the pedals are finally in place. They are oval shaped pieces of .015" sheet styrene, punched out with a sharpened section of brass tubing. After filing the edge of the tubing to a sharp edge, the round shape was slightly flattened to create the oval shape. After seeing a picture of the 1:1 muffler on-line, I decided the kit supplied piece fell short. Here's what I came up with. The real deal does not have a tail pipe, but rather a 1/4 round opening in the back edge of the muffler. I duplicated this with several diameters of styrene tube and rod, then wrapped it all in .005" aluminum sheet. Some simulated rivets were added along the seam. Another minor detail are the braces for the rear fenders. If you've looked at this kit, you know how the fenders are attached at the front edge, but then extend rearward without support. The braces are simply small lengths of 1/32" brass rod bent to shape and inserted into holes with CA for glue. I thought this would be a great detail, but then found that with the pickup bed in place, you hardly see them. I started doing some paint work on the wrecker boom. So far, it's just covered in matte black, but it will get some chalk powder applied as well. the chain is dipped in Blacken-It to achieve the darker color. This provides some color without the heavy thickness (and loss of detail) of paint. Here's a rear shot of the chassis showing the relationship of the battery and muffler. The exhaust slot in the muffler should be on the left in this picture, so it will be rotated from the position shown. Edited February 10, 2013 by Alyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Most excellent!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Mike Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Awesome work buddy, simply awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 making some great progress Alyn, you are a genius! love the zipper/battery terminal idea, every thing looks fantastic, hope we don't see you with those zipper less pants !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 appreciate it gents. Bill, here's a better view of the battery clamps. They're a little large, but the shape is cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 this gives me a whole new perspective on the Model T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 don't forget the 2 radius arms that go from the out side edges of the front axle that come back and tie into the bell housing. Thanks, Derick. I'm holding off on the "wishbone" until the engine is in permanently as the rear attaches to the bottom just in front of the bell housing. I've trimmed the old, molded in drag link and tie rod off it, but still need to paint. Joe, after all the research, I'm starting to appreciate the magic of the Model-T more and more myself. It's a pretty unique car with tons of character. Here's the latest update on the build. This is a shot of the 1:1 muffler with the unusual outlet. The kit supplied part had a short tailpipe extending from the rear of the muffler. Here's my scratch built replacement. another angle showing the riveted seam. Here's a shot of the kit supplied steering column; somewhat of a blob part. my scratch built upgrade The column consists of an aluminum tube with a brass steering shaft inside. At the bottom, the pitman arm is soldered to the end of the brass shaft. At the top, a short section of brass tube is soldered to the shaft. With parts soldered on both ends, the shaft is captured in the aluminum tube, but turns freely. Throttle and spark control rods and levers are .020" brass rod held in position by a brass spacer at the lower end, and a styrene block at the steering wheel end. Once the aluminum tube column is glued in place, the steering wheel will be attached to the top end and will operate the pitman arm below the steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 keeps getting better! rather than ask a bazillion questions, i'm just going to "stay tuned" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluhead Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 How'd I miss this? Great stuff, Alyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Mike Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Between you and Bill, you're making me want to move out to Kansas and just watch the two of you work on your masterpieces......awesome work buddy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exesivefire Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Amazing detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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