comp1839 Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 i have a question for you guys. how much does it really matter to you (the builder, not the spectator) that you have an accurate / correct chassis? what i mean is, does it matter if you have the bars placed correctly or is it o.k. as long as you stuff a lot of bars in there and it looks close? i realize that plastic and brass tubing don't match up one to one and sometimes concessions must be made but, do you even try to get close with the correct diameters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrone Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Dave... I try to get mine as close as I can ... although I know they are not accurate, I dont use a jig or anything like that.. I mainly just eyeball it and test fit alot before gluing everything in place... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAT-T Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I WOULD LIKE TO GET AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO SIZE & REGULATIONS JUST FOR THE CHALLENGE. BUT I'M FINDING THE HUNT FOR REFERENCES CAN BE QUITE THE CHALLENGE AS WELL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostreet Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I Tried to make mine as close to real thing as possible using different size rod where it should be to make it look accurate. When i first started mine i have to admit i wasn't really to worried about it being 100% accurate, But during the build i found my self taking it apart in certain parts to change it to make it more accurate. I still didn't do some things right but made notes to make that stuff right on the next one. I do want mine to resemble the 1:1 as close as possible as i can. I notice myself getting very anal about details now, but that is the way i would like to build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.k.v Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 To make it accurate just get a copy of your local drag racing spec. I have complete rules for australia and it includes the tubing type size and desgin requirements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedsModeling Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 I'm researching for a 55 Chevy Pro Sportsman I'll be building next. I found chassis plans online that I resized to get my scale 115" wheelbase. I may have a crossbrace missing or incorrect, but like the others above, I want it as close as possible. The people who would see it (friends, family, club members) wouldn't know anyway. By the time the chassis is complete, the body installed, engine plumbed and cockpit detailed, some minor missing details would probably be lost or covered up. I've researched the body and engine almost as much as the chassis, but the chassis is an important item to get close to correct. Why are you asking, Dave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 just curious to see what does and doesn't matter to people when they build. there are specific rules that govern rollcage / chassis construction. they are not available in your local drag racing spec. you can go to the rule book to see what spec your chassis needs to be but, after that you need an SFI manual to determine tubing placement and diameters. for instance: pro stock requires SFI spec 25.1e pro mod requires SFI spec 25.1e or 25.2 top sportsman (if quicker than 7.49 sec.) requires SFI spec 25.1e or 25.2 or 25.3 (if 7.50 or slower) requires SFI spec 25.1e or 25.2 or 25.3 or 25.4 or 25.5 i have read the 25.2 manual and i'll give you a for instance. there are 4 different rollcage configurations that are approved for 25.2. they range from the driver helmet being in front of the main hoop to the drivers head being behind the main hoop. the location of the drivers head (so to speak) denotes the locations of the rest of the tubing. same with the floor tubing options, dash /lower windsheild bar and gussets, and the cross tubing in the halo bar. how the flooring sheetmetal is attached is also spec'd. so, questions like Tom's about a pro mod / pro sportsman ( i'm guessing he really means top sportsman) chassis flooring aren't always cut and dried answers. the two could be the same or they could be different. any way. for those of you to whom it matters. there are rules that govern what, where, and how tubing should be placed. i'll post some pics of the rollcage differences when i can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Dave... are these specs out of the NHRA rule book by chance?? sounds like it is an SFI manual. I have a couple of rule books and sounds like I need to pick up an SFI manual for my pro mod build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 yes, the chassis spec. is called out in the nhra rulebook (SFI spec. 25- whatever). you would need to aquire the SFI manual for that spec. the specs i listed are stricktly door car specs. dragsters (front or rear engined), funny cars altereds, street roadsters. all have there own specs. depending on how fast you want to go. again, this only applies to the builder who wants to make sure his stuff is correct. not everyone builds that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAT-T Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 THANKS FOR THAT INFO DAVE. TED WAS KIND ENOUGH TO SHARE HIS RULEBOOK WITH ME, BUT I HAD A HARD TIME CHECKING OUT THE SPECS FOR THE SUPER GAS CLASS, THEY SEEM TO MAKE YOU RUN BACK & FORTH BETWEEN OTHER CLASSES, BUT WHEN YOU GET THERE IT SAYS TO CHECK GENERAL REGULATION, SO WHEN YOU CHECK THERE IT SAID CHECK SFI SPECS NO. ????? SO THAT EXPLAINS QUITE A BIT, DO YOU KNOW IF THE SFI BOOK COVERS ALL THE CLASSES, OR DOES EACH CLASS HAVE IT'S OWN SFI BOOK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 i hadn't checked the super gas class, tom. thanks for the info. each of the sfi manuals is a separate charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Tom...I got onto SFI's website and they have different spec for the different classes. It looks like each spec is $35.00 each other than one that is $45.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAT-T Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 NO PROBLEM DAVE Tom...I got onto SFI's website and they have different spec for the different classes. It looks like each spec is $35.00 each other than one that is $45.00 WOW! I GUESS WE'LL HAVE TO DO WITHOUT THOSE. I THINK THAT'S KIND OF RIDICULOUS, PAYING THAT MUCH FOR SPECS THAT SHOULD ALREADY BE PROVIDED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.k.v Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Paying $35 to get a book to be 100% certain your car will meet the spec is a small price when building a 1:1 car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAT-T Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Paying $35 to get a book to be 100% certain your car will meet the spec is a small price when building a 1:1 car. YEAH, I GUESS SO, BUT I STILL THINK THEY SHOULD INCLUDE THEM IN THE RULE BOOK. I'M STARTING TO PLAN THE CHASSIS FOR MY 1/16 SUPER GAS VETTE, IS THERE A SET DIMENSION FOR FRAME RAIL WIDTH? IF NOT, HOW WOULD YOU DETERMINE THAT? THANKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madd Mike Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 If your looking for different pro mod bodies check out this web site.http://flashpointmotorsports.com/Index.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedsModeling Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Here's some photos of a jig Exoto uses to build their die cast cars. This is a 1/18 scale 1954 XS Jaguar D-Type 'Short Nose'. Here is the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Awesome work guys!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboo60 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Ok! I just tossed my 1st tube frame for my grumpy vega in the trash "for real" in the trash! Starting over with ever green o.60! Now, where do or how do i get the A arm and ? For the front suspension, i going to do this, any one wanna volenteer and walk me through this? Be there when i get stuck? I love grumpys 72 vega! I have all the parts together, resin body, and all, now im a dedent builder, painter etc, this is just a new level i wanna go, not ready for the metel type tubes! But the plastic type i am! Would like to do real springs maybe! So p, ease let me know if someone wants to mentor me thru one! Thanks either way! You guys are amazing. . Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette1955 Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Getting ready to take swing at a chassis. Can someone send me the link to Thumpers tutorial? I have heard about it but, can't seem to find it. Any help or direction is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Wow that is some jig Exoto uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankieBeige Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Very nice, this looks exactly like a Vanishing Point Race Chassis. Now I know it can be done. Will be looking into duplicating the 350z they built for us. BTW, great thread u have going here. I agree with everyone else. reference material is your friend, Also look at other builds on the site. There are alot of extremely talneted builders on this forum, I was in the same boat as you and decide to take the plunge and build my own chassis. I'm working in 1/16th scale so i had no choice but to build my own, If your just starting on doing chassis i would start with the kit floor pan like many guys do and go from there. The more you build the more confident you will get doing chassis. Here's a couple pics of my build, keep in mind this is the first chassis i ever built. There were alot of mess ups but in the end i tackled it and i'm very happy with how it turned out. Have any questions feel free to Pm me anytime and i will help to the best of my knowledge.Here's a link to my Photobucket and Fotki if you would like to see the different stages of the chassis.http://s862.photobucket.com/albums/ab187/HITMAN_063/57%20Chevy%20Turbo%20ProMod/http://public.fotki.com/prostreet502/116th-57-chevy-promod/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drummerdad Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Sorry about resurrecting an old thread. I want to be as accurate as possible, but I dont know how do to gauge the bar diameter? I can see pictures of the type of cars I want to build, and guestimate the position of the bars, but accurately scaling them is important. Most searches for tube diameter refer me to SFI, for the 25.2(b?) cert. I can do the math to convert a 1.5" bar, and a 1", and a 1.6"... to scale but how can I find out which bar is what size on an actual chassis, without spending $35 for the cert? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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