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Pro Street Community Build Project


1320wayne

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well, i am switching gears. my local model club put out its list of themes and that switched my building order. i am moving onto this started project, its a Jimmy Flintstone 64 plymouth resin body, stock frame back halved with the max rat. turquoise with same interior, single carbed hemi and single headlight grille.

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this may not qualify, but i will try....this is a total redo for my club. yea, almost done and i am redoing it, typical. 62 pontiac catalina, scratched the back half, will be fitted with the rear out of the AMT 67 chevelle, new pontiac motor, different color for the interior and exterior. will be a totally new build. i already have most of it yanked apart. they are both du in march. we will see if i can stay focused on these. anyone have any good nasty pontiac motors or motor parts......

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That '58 is ROCKIN' ! I do nelieve l have a new favorite !

Heh, thanks Bart!

Here we go again. I painted the Engine Block orange and Cylinder Heads are Aluminium. Blower intake Manifold and Cragar blower are on their place too... Next making the spark plug wires.

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Al: Pontiac looks fantastic, keep the pix coming! ;)

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Hi Al seems your as bad as me. No sooner I start a project Im either stripping one or starting another new project. Hope to get back to the coronet soon have been working on a transporter using the dodge little red express and the wedge transporter kit to haul around my mopars. Hoping to find a L700 dodge so I can hook it up to my amt/matchbox early car carrier also. By the way have twin 5 year olds, a 16 year old and wife, work for myself, find the time being a night owl generally dont get to bed till 3 or 4 am. Cheers

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...And We Have SparkPlug Wires!

I had bit trouble with the Wire Looms, this was the first time ever I tried them. They make wiring look much better, so I hope to use them more in the future. I decided to go with the Yellow wires this time.

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I've managed to get some painting done on the Duster,but nothing really post worthy yet. I have the floor pan/roll cage painted body and interior color, front frame clip painted, engine, valve covers, induction setup, door panels and dash are all painted. I haven't detailed any of them yet. I'm trying to find some interior photos so that I know how the door panels and dash needs to be detailed. The body is ready for final primer stage. Then, I'll sand, paint and clear it hopefully this week. Maybe then I'll be able to post up some progress photos.

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So I am looking up the rules for Pro Street drag cars. It says that any engine is fine but the car has to weigh so much for certain set-ups (ie: twin turbos add 200lbs, big block-3000lbs, and so on). It can not have a one piece body even if it has doors. Doors must be functional and be able to be opened from the inside and out. Must run a collector style header- no zoomies. Can now have a tubular chasis but it has to maintain the integrity of stock frame. Can have radial drag slicks but can not be wider than 10.5. Must have working lights.

It says that these are the rules as of 12/3/12.

Is this right, am I missing something??

Edited by HNTR
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That's the rules for pro street drag cars. The only rule for pro street is that it must be street legal.

well, my 1:1 car does not have windshield wipers nor even a windshield wiper motor, no horns, fiberglass bumpers and the exhaust does not exit the side or rear of the car. these are some of the things that make a street legal car. when you go for the pro street drag car, i have a cage, but the certification is expired. little things like the welds need to be seen. they cannot be ground smooth like on some show pro streeters. some have front and rear bumper to ground clearances, how high a scoop can be. so many things to consider, but its all based on your state laws for road worthy cars.

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well, my 1:1 car does not have windshield wipers nor even a windshield wiper motor, no horns, fiberglass bumpers and the exhaust does not exit the side or rear of the car. these are some of the things that make a street legal car. when you go for the pro street drag car, i have a cage, but the certification is expired. little things like the welds need to be seen. they cannot be ground smooth like on some show pro streeters. some have front and rear bumper to ground clearances, how high a scoop can be. so many things to consider, but its all based on your state laws for road worthy cars.

Those were the things I wondered. On your 1:1 car do you have slicks, how high is the hood scoop, and what is your bumper ground clearance? Do you have to change it from state to state?

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Those were the things I wondered. On your 1:1 car do you have slicks, how high is the hood scoop, and what is your bumper ground clearance? Do you have to change it from state to state?

no, i dont have slicks, but i ran something like this...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17601/media/images

on the street and prayed it didn't rain!! as long as there is some sort of treat going on, your OK.

dont run a hood scoop. if i did, it would be a stock 440+6 hood for a road runner. the law in ohio would be nothing over the "line of sight"..... what? that is a judgement call to me.... i was going the other way and was building ablower motor that would have extended up about 16" past the hood line..... i was also planning a 4 link and all new suspension under the car that would have put it about 3" to 4" below stock. that along with the blower never happened. the bumpers are about 2" below stock now, so they are not bad. its the deep sump oil pan!!(see the picture below) Ohio doesn't really have a law for clearance on things under the car that i know of, just the bumpers. i dont think you have to conform to out of state laws, only if you are being real obnoxious with the car and run iinto a cop who hasn't had his coffee and donuts that morning.

if you have any other questions, ask away, i will be happy to help if i can.

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I got some paint sprayed on my Duster tonight. I'll sand it down slick,spray another good coat of color or two,sand again and then clear it. When that that gets good and dry,I'll give it a polish. I'll try to get some progress photos posted up tonight if possible. I'm still trying to locate a belt and pulley setup from a Revell '64 Fairlane 427 engine. Does anyone know if there are any other belt and pulley setups that are similar? I need one that mounts the alternator below the head on the passenger side. Would one from a 440 possibly work?

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I got some paint sprayed on my Duster tonight. I'll sand it down slick,spray another good coat of color or two,sand again and then clear it. When that that gets good and dry,I'll give it a polish. I'll try to get some progress photos posted up tonight if possible. I'm still trying to locate a belt and pulley setup from a Revell '64 Fairlane 427 engine. Does anyone know if there are any other belt and pulley setups that are similar? I need one that mounts the alternator below the head on the passenger side. Would one from a 440 possibly work?

no, 440's mount high off a y type bracket. if you want, pm me with your addy and i can get you one from the thunderbolt kit, or something simular that will work.

Edited by tubbs
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Mark, you're sick, but I'm betting you already know this, right? That will be the baddest Mercededs ever built!

OK, I've got an actual update, with pictures even, what's the world coming to? The engine has been rechristened as a 496, the maximum size you can get out of a 383, so now we've got some power to work with, gonna need it for the meats out back, right? The engine is nearly completed now, all that's left is the valve cover bolts and fuel line from the chassis, but those two parts will be done once the engine is installed permanently in the chassis. I have the alternator and bracket installed, along with the fan, so this part is done, more to follow!

One photo-etched bracket with a 1/87th scale brass bolt to hold it in place...it even slides!
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Yeah, the placement of the bracket is not accurate, but it's the only place it would land that had a bolt...
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I drilled out the bolt on the engine and replaced it with another 1/87th scale brass bolt, those tiny boogers are handy!
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I tried to add a bracket to the power steering pump, but couldn't find one small enough. You couldn't see a bracket on it anyway, that area's pretty crowded!
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I also got the battery painted up and ready to install, we've moving right along!
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Next up, some work on the hood and testing the fit of the air cleaner and hood for clearance. I added some embossing powder to the areas of the hood that normally have insulation on them, and it looks really good, I'm gonna do this more often!

If the paint hadn't cracked, this would look really good! Don't ask, I don't know why it's cracked, it just happened. :headscratch:
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First shot of the engine in it's home...soon baby, soon!
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Air cleaner in place, fingers crossed...
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And of course, it's too tall! The rear edge of the hood is slightly up, time to get hacking on the air cleaner!
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I removed the two raised circles on the underside of the air cleaner's base, tried it again, and it fits perfectly, that worked out easily!
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And the final update for now, working on the front rims and tires. Now just to let you know, Sam sent some rubber band front tires that are not gonna work, I can't get 'em to look right no matter what I do, so he'll get 'em back. I found some small, kinda narrow but not too narrow tires, and tried 'em out, they should do the trick. The ride height is nearly perfect, I just need to get the nose down a hair and it'll be right. The biggest problem I have now is the front tires being too far out in the wheel wells. The first shots are what I started with last night, the second two are where I stopped, I think I can get 'em tucked in a bit more, but it's gonna take some work!

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