stump Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 The bleepin' French sanctioning body (FIA) required that the prototypes carry a volume for 'luggage' as a road car would have a trunk. You have to ask those dopes what they were thinking... Ahah....I had no idea what those boxes were....... I shall be leaving my "luggage" at home when I build mine in that case..... Great work by BOTH of you guys.....I want to start mine now, but have too many on the go now, and limited bench space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Great work by BOTH of you guys.....I want to start mine now, but have too many on the go now, and limited bench space. Please stop building your fabulous 240Z and start the GT-we can both learn lots from your work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 Pretty far along with the cockpit. Hey Len or Cato - what is the left most peddle for? I only have two feet - I have heard of heel and toe but now there is one more to worry about. Also my wife is complaining about where to put her feet with that battery placement. She is not happy about where to put all her shopping packages either but I am still going to leave off the tin boxes in the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Pretty far along with the cockpit. Hey Len or Cato - what is the left most peddle for? I only have two feet - I have heard of heel and toe but now there is one more to worry about. That's a dead pedal (footrest) when not shifting. Here's the real thing with hydraulic lines in place. The masters are at the other end of each pedal: The Optima is a modern battery-a favorite for vintage racing. I scratched on old style Exide'. Your Missus will want NO part of riding in this rocket-remember, it's 40" high... You will sadly see none of this when the model's done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 Yeah _ I thought your battery connections were first rate but I don't work well at this scale so I used two banjo fixtures from RB Motion. Again - thought the Optima colorful for my Rodeo Drive special. Wish I could have afforded one of these when I was young enough to drive it. Not sure it would handle the snow up here though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Tip: Those red spray tubes on WD 40 and other spray cans make excellent battery cell caps in this scale. Just slice 'em 1.5mm high and glue down with cyano. Again-they're unseen with dash and body in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) Your Missus will want NO part of riding in this rocket-remember, it's 40" high... In the day she might have surprised you. Here she is in 1956, never having left Southern California, she is on her way to my first real job in Minnesota. Little did she know she would be residing in Japan 4 months later. Ah, those were the days. Edited June 26, 2010 by LR3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 In the day she might have surprised you. Here she is in 1956, never having left Southern California, she is on her way to my first real job in Minnesota. Little did she know she would be residing in Japan 4 months later. Ah, those were the days. Is that an XK-120? Very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 Is that an XK-120? Very cool. Unfortunately it is an old Austin Healey 100 but for my last year in college I thought it was pretty hot and I don't think it was much taller than 40". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Unfortunately it is an old Austin Healey 100 but for my last year in college I thought it was pretty hot and I don't think it was much taller than 40". The 100 was hot for it's day and it's still cool. My fave AH is the 3000. Anybody (Tamiya?) wanna do one for us in 1/12?---I know-there's no business case for one. They should see what Stump is doing for their 240Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Syd, From your other post on SMC; "Working on individual modules as I can't quite visualize where to paint the chassis black and where to paint aluminum as I want the front aluminum." Since you want a black chassis simply paint everything I have in dark blue-black. The entire chassis was steel so that's what you do black. The exception was the nose bottom cover panel (which Trump colored 'silver') and the tin work for the brake ducts in the nose. Those flat panels on either side of the seats are chassis structure for the fuel cells. There are rivets in them similar to what I did there. The entire cabin floor and rear bulkhead as well as the inner roof and w'shield uprights are the chassis-called monocoque. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 Cato - how did you make the toggles for the dash switches? The kit I have just has slight bumps there. I really don't like the silver bezel around the air vent nor the two round vents. I am going to make the rim of the large vent black and blacken the two round ones. They really sick out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 The large rectangle on the left is not a vent-it's a fuse panel. The fuses are the vertical 'ribs'-they should have a 'glass' tube in each. The surround was raw aluminum or black paint. A bunch of unsightly wires hang down from the panel and head aft between the seat and side panel. Gurney shows you how: You can also see why Gurney needed his famous roof 'bubble'. The toggles are cut lengths of Wifey's 'silk pins'-real thin. Drilled the Trump switches and a drop of epoxy on each followed by silver marker on the bezels. Actually mark the bezels first then add the pins. Yes the cars raced with almost all the cockpit details black including the gauge bezels. They all had slight differences like the labels on Gurney's dash or a horn emblem or a rubber pad taped over the emblem. FWIW, 1046 did not get a roll bar until after LeMans-I omitted mine and may mount the mirror on the dashtop or the windshield header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stump Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Please stop building your fabulous 240Z and start the GT-we can both learn lots from your work. Thanks Cato....I wish it was that easy. Been working on these Z's so long now, I'm scared if I stop, I may not get back to them...... :lol: I LOVE your tip on the tiny toggle switches too.....pretty sure I can find some small pins around here..... Syd, maybe just a different shade of black for the round vents...?? A semi-gloss may do the trick. Nice progress so far mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 (edited) FWIW, 1046 did not get a roll bar until after LeMans-I omitted mine and may mount the mirror on the dashtop or the windshield header. Good point. The roll bars were added after crash testing that was after LeMans 66. Prompted buy the Walt Hansgen crash where he died. Edited June 28, 2010 by Len Woodruff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted June 28, 2010 Author Share Posted June 28, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the suggestions. I tired a pin Cato, then figured I could flatten a small styrene square rod to do the job. What the heck, painted black they all but disappear except thanks for the suggestion of gloss black you can make them out better than the photo shows. I can't believe there were fuzes as big as those tubes. Must be European? Any glass fuze I ever had was maybe a little over an inch in length. Could not think of a way to rid the silver bezels for the gauges. Edited June 28, 2010 by LR3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Thanks for the suggestions. I tired a pin Cato, then figured I could flatten a small styrene square rod to do the job. What the heck, painted black they all but disappear except thanks for the suggestion of gloss black you can make them out better than the photo shows. I can't believe there were fuzes as big as those tubes. Must be European? Any glass fuze I ever had was maybe a little over an inch in length. Could not think of a way to rid the silver bezels for the gauges. Looks fine Syd. Nice solution. A. Leave the bezels as they are. B. Mask dials and all of dash except what the dials are mounted on and shoot black. 'A'. Is much easier and looks neat and fine for a non-concours build. You are not recreating an exact racecar. Again-near zero of this work is finally visible. Some thoughts ahead: The front suspension is very wobbly and fidgety. Didn't need operating features so I mocked-up the ride height I wanted then glued the shock and a-arms in position. Watch the assembly sequence of the body to chassis, rear bulkhead and rear trailing arms. I left off the upper rear trailing arms, lay in the cockpit structure with loose bulkhead, then the greenhouse (spread over the rear bulkhead)then snap down the forward chassis structure. Then the rear arms go on. You can do any way you want-just giving you heads up that you gotta spend time mocking up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Thanks for the heads up. I found both the front and rear suspension slightly fidgety and added a drop of glue to the bottom arm connection on each. The rear suspension is a delight. Doubt I will want to cover it up. Have to wait and see. Sure was a lot of parts from which to strip chrome. What was Trumpeter thinking? The only thing better than this kit would be a TDR 1/8 chassis and engine/trans axel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 2, 2010 Author Share Posted July 2, 2010 Cato - did you have to cut a diagonal off this piece of PE to fit the front section? I must be doing something wrong because PE should be detail accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddgass Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 U all are doing outstanding work. Keep it coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Cato - did you have to cut a diagonal off this piece of PE to fit the front section? I must be doing something wrong because PE should be detail accurate. No, it actually overlaps the outer chassis edges on the 1:1 car. It looks half-a$$ed but when the fenders go on it closes the gap to the fender. It looks strange with the nose off but as usual with this kit, you don't see any gaps when closed up. You did neat work-continue what you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) DARN! At least they could have moved the faux mounting bolt line inboard the correct amount. Seems like it will be mounting on air. Guess I will have to leave the gap. Hey Cato - The rings on the cowl have indent holes instead of bolt heads. I don't see where they will be filled later on. Why can't I drop bolt heads in these holes? Something coming later I have missed?? Edited July 3, 2010 by LR3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hey Cato - The rings on the cowl have indent holes instead of bolt heads. I don't see where they will be filled later on. Why can't I drop bolt heads in these holes? Something coming later I have missed?? My best guess based on my reference snaps is that the fuel filler collar is retained with countersunk machine screws-which would be flush. I never saw studs or bolt heads. The chassis could be threaded there for either the screws or bolts-just never saw bolts. The similar competition filler on my Cobra is retained by machine screws. Here's the best reference shot I have of that area. It clearly shows that panel's overlap and the fuel collar has no bolts protruding. Also note that no 2 of the racecars were ever exactly alike-but they all had a generally scruffy, workman-like appearance. No gleamy stuff on them except brake rotors and the chrome street-car mirror.: Over this weekend I'll try to post a few snaps of how I handled this area on my kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 My best guess based on my reference snaps is that the fuel filler collar is retained with countersunk machine screws-which would be flush. I never saw studs or bolt heads. The chassis could be threaded there for either the screws or bolts-just never saw bolts. The similar competition filler on my Cobra is retained by machine screws. Thanks - Great detail reference photo!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gibbons Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Really enjoying this thread; great modeling work, and the reference pictures are so cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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