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stevefzr

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  1. Do you know if anyone ever made a 1/24 or 1/25 model of the Jensen Interceptor? I've had a hunt and can't find one. I can't believe no one would have made a model of it, though. I've previously tried finding a model of the Jensen CV-8 and realised that aside from a 1/43 Pathfinder die cast, there isn't one. I want to make slot cars of these, so I need 1/24 plastic. Regards, Steve C
  2. Thanks Jairus. You are correct that it's the light colours that are the problem. That "paint under the decal" idea sounds great. I'll have to custom make the decals, though, as the stripes I'm doing don't come with the "kit". These are all 40+ YO slot cars, but there are some repro decals available. I can't quite see how I could use french curves to go around the front of that GT40. I'd have to stop and start too many times to reposition the curve. I guess could use the curve to cut a flexible template. It's certainly worth a try to fix some of the cars already painted. For future projects, if I use the decal to cut the mask I use for tracing the stripe onto the masking tape, and make it a smidgeon smaller, then I shouldn't have any problems with colour showing on the wrong side of the black line. As I'll have painted colour under the decal, it won't matter if they're thin, so I can use the colour laser printer at work to make them. Now I just need to get my Alps printer going so I can make some stripes with a gold edge line instead of black! Regards, Steve C
  3. Guys, I paint up slot cars, preferring to paint my stripes as I find the decals washed out and thin, even when you double them up. I usually paint the body in the stripe colour, or at least the area where the stripe will be, mask over it in the shape of the stripe and then spray the main body colour. This works fine for a single colour stripe like the one in the Atlas Lola T70 pic.......... ........., but doesn't allow me to add a thin border line to the stripe, like in the Ford GT40 pic below: If I was painting a clear body from the inside, then I'd mask the stripe area, paint the body colour, use an exacto knife to cut a thin strip from around the edges of the mask, which I'd be fairly confident of doing, spray my edge colour, then remove the mask entirely and spray the stripe. However, I spray my cars on the outside, so the only way I can think of doing it involves adding a thin strip around the mask instead of removing, and I don't think I could do that evenly at all. Similarly, I don't think I could hand paint an even enough line with a brush. Is there a technique for this? Thanks, Steve C
  4. !!! Maybe my tap water is hotter than yours. I once impatiently dropped a Tamiya Ford Spyder into a bucket of hot water and caustic soda to remove paint. Well, I was left with a paint-free blob :-( Now I let the water cool first. Regards, Steve C
  5. I've had someone else recommend a two person job with a hair dryer. One twists/bends and the other heats. Has anyone ever tried that one? Regards, Steve C
  6. a couple of months? Is that all? The guy who was going to do it for me has had it for over a year already. I could have done 6 in that time! I'll report back in a couple of months. Sun is not usually in short supply down here. Regards, Steve C
  7. Guys, What's the technique for straightening a warped styrene body? This one is warped so that it doesn't sit flat. It needs to be "twisted" about 1/8" along its length. I've heard other people talk about putting a cut in the body and adding in a sliver of styrene to force it straight. How does tat work? How do you know where to cut? Regards, Steve
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