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    Skip Ragsdale

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  1. My usual methodology on two tone/color bodies is to work light to dark, like Steve said "it's easier to cover silver with black..." If you shoot the lighter color over the darker, I think you are setting yourself up for bleed through. I've never experienced bleed through issues when going light to dark; being that the light color is silver, you might not encounter any sort of issue, then again, you might.
  2. Same here Steve, I remember trying to replace a 1/12 scale ‘57 Chevy, with flat material, it just wouldn’t stretch around enough to make both curvy ends line up, it would make one but not the other I’d get it in and glued and it would just suck right back it again and again! (Most exasperating!) I finally ended up creating a buck out of the old windshield, balsa and bondo, then vacuforming a new windshield with the same material. The original break did “bleed” through to the inside f the windshield, which I ended up polishing and finally dipping in Future. I could tell where the defect was but no one else did, sooo I guess it worked out after all. The car now belongs to someone else, I look every time I see the model, it’s still stable and doesn’t show. Thats pretty thick, 1/32 = 1 / 32 = 003125 say 0.030 thick, the stuff that Revell used to use for their flat windshields was 0.010 thick, I never measured the camera film a lot of us used to use for windshield material but it felt like it was thinner than the Revell stuff. (Anyone have any exposed camera film they can measure?) Although back when I was vacuforming aircraft canopies we didn’t pay a whole lot of attention to what the exact material was. First it had to be clear, then thin enough (0.010 in - 0.020 in) to heat and form quickly so I’m sure we used a whole lot of stuff that wasn’t supposed o work, but did! LoL!! BTW - 0.010 in - 0.020 in white Evergreen sheet styrene vacuforms into a really nice Hobby Stocker hood, providing a realistic droop like an old hood with all its internal bracing removed, trunk and door skins too…
  3. Not necessarily, it helps enamels when your polishing them out helps not to burn through as easily as it does what it says hardens the enamel a bit over un-hardened enamels. Enamels tend to run a little softer than say a lacquer based paint, there are some that believe hardener adds to the luster of the paint. I’m not so certain about that though, because I normally polish to even out orange peel no matter how shallow. I’ve used enamel hardener with sign paint to get it to cure out quicker, so that’s probably it’s main advantage.
  4. Guess I'm late to this one, but I'll chime in anyway. I love my Starrett Machinists Pin Vise set of five varying sized pin vises so you can have all five of them set up with a different diameter drill bit. Comes in handy when you are drilling a pilot hole then drilling up to size, you just set up the appropriate vise and bits and drill away! I've seen cheaper Machinists Pin Vises on eVilbay for a lot cheaper than the Starrett's but the threading on the chucks is not as smooth. My set belonged to my grandfather who got them sometime in the thirties, they look and perform exactly like the newer Starrett Pin Vises do.
  5. That's what I thought too, one time I ordered some enamel paint from Mike at MCW and forgot the hardener. So, I ordered it off of eBay hours later from whomever was selling MCW paint there. Both orders arrived in the same box with a refund on shipping on the MCW order! For what it's worth, Mike /MCW combines shipping on eBay so the shipping ends up a decent deal if you order more than one jar of paint. I believe that MCW charges that much for shipping because they require extra materials to secure the jars in the box to keep them from breaking. I always order enough for several projects from both MCW and Scale Finishes, so I've never really been bummed over the shipping. Both MCW and Scale Finishes might also be getting hit with some Haz-Mat fees as well, which certainly would jack up the price of postage. I don't have a box from either around right now, but I remember the tape used to seal the boxes had some sort of Haz-Mat wording on it.
  6. For one thing the 1948 cut off was set by the early NSRA parameters, if I remember correctly because 1949 marked the "Shoe Box" era with the blended fenders versus the detachable from almost any pre-48 body. Pretty sure that's oversimplifying it. NSRA also declared that post 1949 classified it as a "Street Machine". I pretty much lurk over at the HAMB too, unless you are one who invests time in extended build threads and endless discussions of your build, justifying every nut bolt and widget, you won't be accepted into the "Good Ol' Boys Network". So, I get about as much out of the HAMB by lurking as participating, I really like the vintage drag racing as in restored race cars and the restored Hot Rods RRR - I don't recall you being run off TRAK, most of everything that I've seen you build fits in with our build parameters, pre-1969 and Muscle Cars excluded. There can be some attitude over there too regarding what parts, wheels, engines should be allowed or not. Of late things have been loosening up over there, but we are in no way snobbish to the point of HAMB, (when politics of building enter into things it just becomes a lot less fun). Not to mention that I've always enjoyed your builds and generally learn a bit from each of them.
  7. I have done this before, it's quite interesting what you can do with a file and a small machinist vise. First chuck the tubing in a vise to the desired cut depth, then file it down to the top of the vise jaws. The end result is a parallel depth of cut with little if any need for additional dressing with either a file or sanding stick.
  8. Good catch on the at by the way, it did use some sort of torsion bar set up to hold the front end up (it sort of looks like a dragster type set up). Not sure if they are VW torsion leaves or not. He could have used some of the dragster type torsion bars. I would tend to think that the torsion bars were something that had been modified for use on the car. wouldn't think that it was something that Steve Scott designed and built, unless by trial and error as the spring rates of the torsion springs is kind of over most people's heads to figure out.
  9. That really wasn't the point was it, it is the observation that the Uncertain T was pretty polarizing wherever it is discussed, (not just the HAMB, I've hung around there long enough to get it with them - its historical but in no way Traditional).
  10. Good Grief, can't believe the sniveling and whining about the Uncertain T being found. Guess I hadn't considered just how polarizing the Uncertain T is to a lot of people. Just a read through some of the comments on the HAMB in just this one thread, there are others too with an equal number of haters and those who appreciate the Uncertain T for what it is and was when it first hit the Show Circuit. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-uncertain-t-saga-and-some-facts.1309769/
  11. Likely the reason your metalics are not coming out shiny as you want them to is that they are using some sort of acrylic based lacquer or other acrylic based paint which requires a Clear Coat to bring out their shine. If we were talking non-metalic paints, then you could probably polish it out and then apply a good coat of wax to really bring out that luxurious shine. You didn't mention a paint type or brand, so most of this will be guesswork from all of us until you offer specifics. Everything in the Automotive Paint world is going to environmentally friendly formulation, which means that the Hobby Paints normally follow suit soon after. Unfortunately, most of the pearls, metalics and other flip-flop type paint aren't using real pearls or "metal" as the metalflake, they use a polyester or plastic "chromed" flake, think craft glitter only a lot smaller. So, if you try to polish out the un-cleared "metalflake" you end up cutting a lot of the shiny part off of the flake ending up with a whole lot of clear, white or other base-colored plasticky bits in the color-tinted-clear-coat which look like contamination to the paint or worse. So, to get metalics to get the shine if they don't when they're dry, you'll need to spray on some sort of clear coat which can then be leveled and polished out. Here is an example of what the flake material looks like without the base and tinting, looks like a bag of really finely ground glitter. Metalflake Example from eBay To use the loose flake, you need to come up with some sort of flake duster / buster to spray the flake onto a wet clear. Then spray clear over the flake multiple times to build up enough to level and shoot a final couple of clear coats on top of that, then color sand and polish to bring up to a high sheen. Just a bit of FYI if you really want to get into the whole flake scene - Little Daddy Roth (Ed Roth's son, Dennis) makes a large Bass boat to Low-Rider fine sized flakes in a rattle can, appropriately named "Little Daddy Roth's Rattle Bombs" which usually are a mid-coat over a black, white, silver, gold... base coat. Then the flake is Rattle Bombed over the base and cleared with normally a 2K catalyzed clear. Here's an example of the Little Daddy Roth Rattle Bomb in Gaitor Aid Green Rattle Bomb I've used the Rattle Bombs on a few non-model related projects that came out really amazing - without the cost of a flake duster/buster or any other stuff needed to lay loose flake. So, either that helped you some of just confused you to death, hope it helped!
  12. It's a shame that Car Craft and Rod & Custom magazines are no longer around, it would have been cool to see the articles they might have run on the "discovery". Car Craft could have ran a spread beginning with their first segueing to the present Uncertain T, the story behind its discovery, then being displayed at the Grand National Roadster Show, following up with Galpin having it restored... Yep, that big box is pretty cool, too bad they didn't make it big enough for the "Actual Size" Uncertain T to have come out of it!
  13. Uncertain T Discovered a Holy Grail Watched this "Autopian" YouTube video this morning, it has better close shots of the car, still doesn't get up close and personal with the interior other than the diamond tuft roof panel to match the seats. Shows some carpet on the floor, maybe it had black carpet up the walls, hopefully the same diamond tufting up the walls to the interior roof? Makes me interested to actually see how the original construction was carried out, as well as the overall fit and finish of the interior. The guy that sold the Uncertain T to Galpin has had the car for the entire time after purchasing it from Steve Scott, this video indicates that its location has changed just about every time that a searcher got close to it. The backstory is almost as interesting as the car itself.
  14. The old Go-To method of using some sort of styrene rod to plug the hole has always worked here. I've always used either Evergreen Styrene Rod or stretched sprue to fill those types of holes, I think it goes clear back to the Model Car Science Magazine days where maybe Don Emmons or one of their other contributors demonstrated it in a sidebar to another article. It has also been discussed in both Fine Scale Modeler and SAE as a method to close up holes in styrene and resin. Here's how I normally close up a hole in a styrene part. - 1. Brush liquid glue into the hole. 2. Insert Styrene Rod or Stretched Sprue into hole(s). 3. Allow glue to set. 4. Trim excess flush to the top and bottom surfaces with either an X-Acto knife or sprue cutter - (the flusher the cut off the less overall sanding will need to be done), sand, fill with appropriate filler, sand again, prime, paint... Most of the time very little, if any filler will be needed, if it is required a tiny dab of thick CA glue on top of the filled hole should suffice.
  15. Hey Joe, Welcome aboard! Where in Washington are you located? I'm in Kitsap Co. There are a few others here from the "Rust-Belt" as well.
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