Art Anderson Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 in the "Those were the days..." series American Woodies 1928-1953 , there's mention of a Canadian car, the Meteor Custom DeLuxe Station Wagon (pg #59). it's described as "... basically a low price Mercury clothed with a Ford body ..." That's funny, considering that the station wagon was the most expensive car in both Mercury and Ford lineups. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 i have both the above book and a companion British Woodies. certainly can't vouch for the integrity of content, but do enjoy the pretty pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Still thinking... I'm wondering id the best way to do this is to cut the Ford right behind the doors and across the roo,and do the same for the woody. Use the Ford chassis,with modifications. Is it just me,or does the Ford woody roof look taller above the windshield,compared to the coupe?. That's what I was thinking too. But, it looks like the front section of the woody roof will have to go too because of the difference in height. When I do one, I want to use the Mercury chassis if possible. I think the only issue will be the wheel base. I'm planning on converting the AMT '41 woody into a '40. I haven't started it yet though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 That's what I was thinking too. But, it looks like the front section of the woody roof will have to go too because of the difference in height. When I do one, I want to use the Mercury chassis if possible. I think the only issue will be the wheel base. I'm planning on converting the AMT '41 woody into a '40. I haven't started it yet though. Convert a '41 Woody into a 1940? Uh, might I suggest that Motor City Resin Casters has an excellent 1940 Ford station wagon body in resin--with fender/floorboard unit, all three seats, and all the interior door hardware? There's a huge difference between the 1941-48 Ford and the 1940, it's longer, wider, and completely different shapes (even though it still very much looks like a Ford. Just my thoughts. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 from here: https://shoeboxford.wordpress.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khier Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 It seems everything below the front side window frame and frontwards, to be precise, the door panels and fron clip, have to be replaced in the mercury by the Ford parts. The wood trim has finally to be introduced to the front door panels. This is might be not bad because it will help hiding the traces of the surgery. However, I cannot imagine how to match the door trim with the original trim of the kit. Now wouldn't it be clever if Revell used the parts for a '49-'51 Ford wooldy? That would save me a lot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharoah Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I love good challenge! If I didn't already have 3 builds going, (What only 3?) Well, you know... I'm not really even a Ford guy,but I really prefer the look of the 49 Ford over the 49 Mercury. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 It seems everything below the front side window frame and frontwards, to be precise, the door panels and fron clip, have to be replaced in the mercury by the Ford parts. The wood trim has finally to be introduced to the front door panels. This is might be not bad because it will help hiding the traces of the surgery. However, I cannot imagine how to match the door trim with the original trim of the kit. Now wouldn't it be clever if Revell used the parts for a '49-'51 Ford wooldy? That would save me a lot of work. The "wood" trim on the doors for making a '49 Ford wagon shouldn't be a major problem--pretty sure that Evergreen has a size of styrene strip that would work. The bigger issue would be "spacing" the door skins inward into the body surface to allow the wood framing to be flush not only with the front fender edge, but also match in that manner the positioning of the wood trim on the forward edge of the rear quarters. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharoah Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 As for the wood on the doors goes,wouldn't you cut out the darker wood areas? That way the lighter wood areas (actually the AMT door) would be flush with the fenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 As for the wood on the doors goes,wouldn't you cut out the darker wood areas? That way the lighter wood areas (actually the AMT door) would be flush with the fenders. I thought of that when I did my conversion (never finished it out though) using the Aurora Mod Squad Merc wagon--but determined that cutting the door skin to leave just "framing" would have been lots more difficult--given that everything needs to be as straight and true as possible, plus the need to have all edges of that "wood" framing be chamfered to match the rest of the body shell. To me, it seems far easier to simply set the '49 Ford door skin inward by the thickness of the Evergreen used to make the new framing, than any other way. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 As for the wood on the doors goes,wouldn't you cut out the darker wood areas? That way the lighter wood areas (actually the AMT door) would be flush with the fenders. That's how I plan on doing it. Then let the filler piece from behind over lap the cut at the door for some added strength. Walid is right about cutting below the window frame on the door. It looks like the door windows are taller also. Without the woody kit in hand, it's hard to tell. What translates on real cars doesn't always translate to a kit. It should. But, it doesn't sometimes. I plan on getting the woody kit next trip to Hobby Lobby and find out how easy or hard the conversion will be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 won't that make the panels recessed a couple of scale inches? you may end up adding a panel shaped like the recess to your backer piece or cutting a rebate around the panel hole so the filler will set closer to the surface, but that might be a major pain. the good thing is that you could finish the framing, and the panels, before joining, then have no border cutting in to do - assuming you'll use light/ dark wood combination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khier Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 The "wood" trim on the doors for making a '49 Ford wagon shouldn't be a major problem--pretty sure that Evergreen has a size of styrene strip that would work. The bigger issue would be "spacing" the door skins inward into the body surface to allow the wood framing to be flush not only with the front fender edge, but also match in that manner the positioning of the wood trim on the forward edge of the rear quarters. Art How would you replicate the grains in the trim? I did not notice the problem with the door panel. I guess it would be easier to scratchbuild the complete door with styrene strips using the original door panel as a template. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrucha Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 I was thinking of this conversion but the door shape on the 49 Merc wagon threw me off. With the tips I learned on this thread, I might try this conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 How would you replicate the grains in the trim? I did not notice the problem with the door panel. I guess it would be easier to scratchbuild the complete door with styrene strips using the original door panel as a template. As the "framing" trim was hard maple, that is a very fine, close-grained wood, and once sanded and varnished, you really can't feel the grain with your bare hands (unless the body is weathered quite a bit). I did the "wood grain" effect on my Mercury build with paint. I started with an airbrushed coat of Testors #1141 Wood Tan, then "wiped" with "burnt sienna" artist's oil paint darkened slightly with a small drop of "raw umber"; using eye shadow foam applicators from Walgreen's cosmetics department. Once all of that was dry (artist's oil paints take several days to dry), I added the kit decals for the mahogany plywood paneling, then brushed a coat of Tamiya Clear Yellow over all the woodwork. This is how it came out, looks very much like a fairly new Mercury woodie that's seen a summer's worth of sun: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khier Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) Looks very nice, Art. Meanwhile I found the following solution to turn plastic into wood:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warbird-Decals-1-48-BLACK-WOOD-GRAIN-ON-CLEAR-DECAL-/191370884586 and also:http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-wood-grain-decals/ As for the conversion, it seems the whole door has to be scratchbuilt, either by forming real wood as the real car, or plastic strips and apply wood decales (or whatever technique). Walid Edited March 10, 2015 by khier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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