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Complete Breakdown?


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I just finished my first model and I'm not happy with it at all. I was wondering if I could break the whole thing down and strip everything to start over? I used the crappy testors tube glue(red tube) and the testors enamel paint. How do I begin?

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im thinking since u used that crappy glue it might just pop apart carefully...but what donn said will work also...i buy a lot of glue bombs on ebay and most of them just come apart with a little help...as for the paint...put it in the purple pond..(castrol super clean)

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Kevin, my advice is to save your time and apply it to a new project. If it's a matter of building that same model, then build a new kit. I say this because I learned long ago that If I built I a model I did not like, I would keep it so that I could remember exactly where I was before.

The new model can be compared to the old model, and you would know what changes you made, progress, the things you added (this time) that make the new model better.

Anyway, it's just a suggestion. Best of luck to you and your styrene addiction.

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Kevin, my advice is to save your time and apply it to a new project. If it's a matter of building that same model, then build a new kit. I say this because I learned long ago that If I built I a model I did not like, I would keep it so that I could remember exactly where I was before.

The new model can be compared to the old model, and you would know what changes you made, progress, the things you added (this time) that make the new model better.

I quite agree. There isn't a person on this forum that was overjoyed by the result of their first built. Especially with tube glue and enamels. Take what you've learned and apply it to the next kit. You've already deconstructed the other, so now you've got some spare parts which is never a bad thing.

Take your time. Be meticulous. If something doesn't look good or fit right, keep at it until it does. That way there's no chance of being disappointed again. There's lots of info here on glues/paint/details. Find it, use it. We'll be here to fill in the blanks.

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i'm wondering why testor's cement in the red tube is "crappy"... it can be the best thing in the world for lots of jobs, as long as you don't use too much of it or expect it to set as fast as superglue, which it will NOT do. if it's applied too thickly it will make a mess of things, get onto outer surfaces where it's not wanted and also onto your fingers. i prefer to use liquid solvent cement and a brush; fit your trimmed parts together and let the cement flow from the brush into the joints. let those set up and clean the edges, and those parts will look as if they never were separate pieces.

i still use and will continue to use testors enamels; they're easy to use and dry fairly quickly; they thin easily and don't show brush marks if you take your time. i also don't have to worry about whether they will react to another coat of paint over them.

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I wouldnt bother breaking it down and starting over. You'll never progress that way. When i got back into the hobby i stripped the paint off my body no less than a dozen times. I was holding myself back by doing that. Just build it the best you can, then strive to do better on the next one.

With all the great advice and instruction here on this forum, I was expecting to get comparaqble results..doesnt work that way..gotta crawl before you can walk!

Just my opinion

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i'm wondering why testor's cement in the red tube is "crappy"... it can be the best thing in the world for lots of jobs, as long as you don't use too much of it or expect it to set as fast as superglue, which it will NOT do. if it's applied too thickly it will make a mess of things, get onto outer surfaces where it's not wanted and also onto your fingers. i prefer to use liquid solvent cement and a brush; fit your trimmed parts together and let the cement flow from the brush into the joints. let those set up and clean the edges, and those parts will look as if they never were separate pieces.

i still use and will continue to use testors enamels; they're easy to use and dry fairly quickly; they thin easily and don't show brush marks if you take your time. i also don't have to worry about whether they will react to another coat of paint over them.

Agreed. I still keep a tube or two around for the things I never want to come apart. Just a dab will do it. I do all of my detail painting with Testor's enamels, and I'm just getting into painting bodies with it, ala Donn Yost. I was a big spray bomber until I saw what I could do with a couple of jars of enamel and some lacquer thinner.

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I'm another fan of keeping older builds intact, and using them as a watermark; if you think of re-doing it, simply get another kit and compare them after the 2nd build.

Historically, I've got a very bad record of 'restoring' older builds....like only one out of several attempts. I've noticed that the inspiration to build that model may not be as strong the second time around, and the former model becomes little more than fodder for the parts box.

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