Foxer Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 (edited) This is just a photo needed to zoom in and check paint touch up needed. Yes, there are some needed as usual. I think this scheme will work. I used Tamiya Clear Red on the intake pipes. Edited July 6, 2017 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shucky Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I love this build! The body is awesome. Cant wait to see more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan_m Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 those intake runners look great in trans red! and the front shot of the body looks really cool.......the car looks like it is seriously mad at someone! LOL nice work bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Man, that is looking super cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Handley Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Looks great so far, are you going to chop it when you finish the rest of the body mods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 The red intake runners and valve covers look very good, Mike. Nice detail for this. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Looks great so far, are you going to chop it when you finish the rest of the body mods? There will be no chop. Thanks everyone for all the comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Awsume looking build so far, going to be killer!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 (edited) Continuing on with engine detailing the plug boots were next. I drilled some .022" holes into.08" square rod for pins into the engine and for the plug wires. Both holes were drilled int the rod before cutting and the engine pin glued before cutting off the rod. I only lost one unit! The cam covers are all drilled to receive the pins. The 1:1 engine photo shows what I need to replicate. It looks like I'll have to make an oil filler cap and decal Now that I'm on the ignition I can't find the distributor from the SHO engine. It's just a box with some ribbing as it models the cover normally used and the wires all go in one side in a group. If it doesn't show up soon I'll just make one. Edited July 6, 2017 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) More on the plug wires. All shaped, painted and mounted on engine. Of course, one wire detached from the boot and might be tough putting back in the off center hole. Oh well, normal for the course. These were sure tiny! I never found the ignition box so I made a crude one from plastic pieces. It'll do as it will be tucked into the fire wall and not that visible I expect. Edited July 6, 2017 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 thats really cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) It's almost a year since I've posted anything on this build, or actually DONE anything! It's been ready for paint all that time and I got to thinking about it. I'm using the Tamiya TS-11 Maroon but I thought highlighting the body "moldings" (for lack of a proper name) would give some interest and break up the vast swath of one color. This pencil sketch is how I envisioned it with the moldings just a darker shade of the same color. The actual colors are way off in this. My thought was to use a white primer and then flat black over the moldings. I crudely masked another body to test this on. The black leaked thru the door lines but it didn't matter for this test. I ended up putting down 4 coats but in the end, the shading from the black isn't very noticeable. Maybe only 3 coats will do it. At least the sharp demarcation between the white and black wasn't too noticeable. The color is much darker than the photo shows and is looks very good in person. I'd be interested in any thoughts on this ... necessary, forget it, or methods to do it? Edited July 6, 2017 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 It might be wise to do the following. 1. Spray the body in one color. 2. VERY thoroughly mask off the surrounding areas. 3. Decant a small amount of the maroon and a small amount of gloss black (enough to noticeably darken it) into a solvent-resistant jar and mix them, and then either airbrush or hand-brush the molding. The idea is intriguing. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) That might be the best way, Charlie, and won't depend on how many main coats I put on that will tend to cover the black too much. I took a shot outside and the true color shows better ... darn cat hairs are magnets! This Tamiya TS-ll went on very smooth out of the can. Hopefully I can get it as well on the real body! Edited July 6, 2017 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 That is a nice color. I need to find something I can use that on. Perhaps one of my capital-C classics. Wouldn't look bad on a mid-30s Ford, either, as Coach Maroon was pretty close to that. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 That is a nice color. I need to find something I can use that on. Perhaps one of my capital-C classics. Wouldn't look bad on a mid-30s Ford, either, as Coach Maroon was pretty close to that. Charlie Larkin It is darker than this photo now that I look ... not a good ad for the paint. It photographs light and probably just the camera lightening it to neutral gray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Great color. Have you thought obot foiling the molding?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Just saw this post. Really nice concept. Like your color choice. Looking forward to seeing this one done. Keep up the good work. bobthehobbyguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Great color. Have you thought obot foiling the molding?? That would be really tough for me, my foiling hands aren't great anymore and there's not a great edge along the molding. The BMF would give a nice separation as I wanted though. Think I'm going to just do black on the molding as I tried above and try to keep the paint coats down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Nice work so far. I remember when you were working on this last. That TS-11 looks like it would be the perfect color for my 40 Ford I'm working on. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 The black doesn't look bad, Mike, but if that color is actually a bit darker than it photographs, may I suggest a lighter shade? I went back through and re-checked our discussions on color scheme. This might look nice, too: paint that molding in a non-metallic grey, perhaps plain old Testors gloss gray, maybe with a touch of black to darken it a hair, and then an interior in roughly the same shade of gray overall with a slightly darker gray accent. If you do decide to do black, it might be wise to balance the dark colors with a light interior color, such as pastel gray or perhaps even white with red accents (I'd use Testors flat red for those, with their metallic in the square bottles (not the Ruby Red Metal-Flake) for any parts you want to represent metal. Another good option would be my original suggestion of a cream stripe with a cream and brown two-tone interior, or solid cream or light tan. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 (edited) I had another paint here that was lighter and had a very fine metallic and I liked how well it went on in previous tests, sooooo ... Duplicolor Autumn Maple Metallic in a spray can It looks good but still doesn't have the ZING .. IT. Suggestions are always appreciated. The big question I have for all is what do I paint the wheels? ALCLAD chrome them again? Everyone here has wheel opinions so here's your chance!! Edited July 6, 2017 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 that tracknose sure looks great on there and the paint is nice with good scale metallic particles, from the photos anyway. maybe if you want more zing...a coat of Tamiya clear red over the top? great piece of engineering there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 (edited) Black Chrome on the wheels. I don't normally like black chrome all that much, but, here I think it would work. Be worth testing anyway. Edited November 28, 2013 by Speedfreak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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