Dragfreak Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Try using a medical blade. Available from Squadron or your local pharmacy. I had trouble with the sharpest of x-acto blades, but when I switched to the medical blade, it worked wonders and sliced through with no snags. I've also found that keeping the foil sheet in the fridge helps with the foil curling when you cut it and keeps it fresh and sticky. Might be no truth to that, but give it a shot. Also, I like to spend some time and lightly sand the trim I will be foiling with 3200 grit to get any inperfections out of the surface and promote adhesion. Also, BMF is available all over Ebay for 7-8 dollars shipped. Try to use a merchant that seems to sell a lot of the stuff to increase your chances of getting a fresher sheet. I will give that a shot and see how it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Jason, it is thick, l cut it with a disposable Testor hobby knife. They have a real sharp point. l used half a sheet and threw the rest out...looked good on the model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenrat Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) Ultra Bright is too shiny in my book. But it's not that new. If it says "new" on it how old could your packet be? It maybe that the vendor has had it sitting around for ages and it's gone off. Try the "new improved chrome" and keep it in the fridge* as is suggested above. *I keep mine slid under the salad drawer where Mrs z won't see it and complain. Edited June 14, 2013 by zenrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edsel-Dan Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I don't feel or see the difference in thickness between Ultra Bright & regular Chrome BMF. I did buy a Gold sheet that could not stick to itself to save its own life!! I Like both the regular & Ultra-Bright. As for Thick foil, Testor's Model Master felt like Kitchen foil, or Chrome Mylar (a Plastic material) over Double-face tape, over Plastic Wrap, over More Double-face tape!! It did not like to Cut smoothly. And once down, was Never Completely down!! You could leave a make in it if you touched it with a Finger-nail!!! At least this was a VERY Small sheet, about 2x7 Inches, and Given to me free!! There is another name on this foil, but I do not remember it!! Wonder if they have fixed that??!!! I have also used Detail Master. It was Good, but would Not Stretch into details like BMF will. It sticks to upper surfaces faster, so will tear if you try to press it down into details if you are not careful enough to get it down In first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoparWoman Jamie Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I use aluminum vent tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) I've had no problems with the New Ultra Bright Chrome BMF... I've used it on my '64 Belvedere, '53 Hudson and '55 Chrysler now without any problems. Only minor thing I could think as a little problem was that when I used it on the first time, right after I had bought it, the glue on that BMF was very hard and it was tricky to get those unnecessary pieces off from the body. But otherwise it has worked okay. Edited June 14, 2013 by W-409 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRoofNut Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I have had three sheets of it including a fourth sent by BMF and not had any luck with it. I ended up using it for chroming the trim in the little bits in my 1:1 LTD and lightly coated it with semi gloss lacquer. It's held up for 8 years pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Does foil really have a shelf life? would it matter in ho it cuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eshaver Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 The adhesive on the sheets I've gotten all had problems . Then too, the humidity makes it more difficult to get onto the body too. I'll stick with their regular product. The decal paper, uh be sure and use Mico sol if you ever want a decal to stick down too.................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps2u Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) The New Ultra bright, Yes I had a little difficulty removing it from its backing sheet at first. Then I discovered if I use a sharp #11 blade after cutting the strip with light pressure I then lift a corner of the New Ultra BMF with the corner of my #11 blade and apply it to the model with forceps. I have noticed if you handle the area to be covered with BMF, It can have an adhesion issue from the natural oils from your skin. Otherwise I like the new product better then the old simply due to the adhesion issues. The dulling of the finish after a few years? Time will tell. Shelf life? I believe the adhesive breaks down over the years. Normal wear & tear. I still have BMF I purchased back in the 1991. The adhesive backing at that time was known for its lack of adhesion some times & a bottle of "BMF glue" was needed, Nothing more then watered down Elmer's white glue that could be purchased to cure that issue . Pain in the neck IMO, It also would tear with the slightest pressure even while burnishing it. With no other choices we all dealt with it & moved on... The same style/era of BMF foil I used back in 2002 on a kit the BMF actually has dulled out over time. Even after clear coating it is now flaking off over the years. Edited June 14, 2013 by Gramps2u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 The same style of BMF foil I used back in 2002 on a kit the BMF actually has dulled out. Even after clear coating it is now flaking off over the years. Strange. I have models that were foiled 30 years ago and the foil has never come off of any model of mine, ever. And I didn't clear coat over any of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps2u Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Strange. I have models that were foiled 30 years ago and the foil has never come off of any model of mine, ever. And I didn't clear coat over any of them. I wonder if the yellowing of the pearl clear coat could have broke down the foil over time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I wonder if the yellowing of the pearl clear coat could have broke down the foil over time? Don't know, but I guess it's possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I wonder if the yellowing of the pearl clear coat could have broke down the foil over time? If the paint had either a very base or very acidic composition, I could see that happening, as both extremes will affect aluminum (which is why SuperClean will dissolve aluminum- it's a lye-like solution, which is alkali (base)). Another solution I've found for foiling is to purchase MicroScale foil adhesive and use thin, cheap aluminum foil. While not as thin as BMF, it's nowhere near as fragile and works well for long strips like side-spears.Using this method, you can also make good paint masks, as the foil, burnished properly, seals the adjacent areas well. Just be sure to not let it sit too long on the model. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeeBee Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 What Charlie Larkin said. The cheapest store-brand foil you can find is plenty thin enough and I find it much easier to work with than Bare Metal. Just couldn't see paying 7-8 bucks for a square of aluminum foil with paste on it. Jason, the $16.00 you spent already was more than twice what you'd have to pay for a lifetime supply (even at your age) of chrome trim going this route. PB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRoofNut Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 What Charlie Larkin said. The cheapest store-brand foil you can find is plenty thin enough and I find it much easier to work with than Bare Metal. Just couldn't see paying 7-8 bucks for a square of aluminum foil with paste on it. Jason, the $16.00 you spent already was more than twice what you'd have to pay for a lifetime supply (even at your age) of chrome trim going this route. PB. IMAG0098.jpgIMAG0090.jpgIMAG0088.jpg WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW! I would have NEVER thought it would look that good going on what guys said alone. Anyone has names of brands of this cheap store foil, the glues and how it's done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Anyone has names of brands of this cheap store foil, the glues and how it's done? The whole point is NOT to use brand-name foil... use the cheap stuff, either generic or from the dollar store. Brand-name foil is too thick, the cheap stuff is thinner and works much easier for this technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Strange. I have models that were foiled 30 years ago and the foil has never come off of any model of mine, ever. And I didn't clear coat over any of them. I agree with Harry. I have models eons old with no issues what so ever. I cleared over one once and the clear dried as a crackle finish over the BMF, so I never did that again. Besides, you want the paint and the BMF to have their own different levels of shine, just like on a real car. Clearing over it all defeats that. I'd say the longevity is all in the application. I've found that guys who try to cut pieces too small, then place / lift / re-position it are the ones who have the most issues. And the part of the back where you've touched it with your fingers also needs to be cut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps2u Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) I agree with Harry. I have models eons old with no issues what so ever. I cleared over one once and the clear dried as a crackle finish over the BMF, so I never did that again. Besides, you want the paint and the BMF to have their own different levels of shine, just like on a real car. Clearing over it all defeats that. I'd say the longevity is all in the application. I've found that guys who try to cut pieces too small, then place / lift / re-position it are the ones who have the most issues. And the part of the back where you've touched it with your fingers also needs to be cut off. I had been told MANY years ago when I was first introduced to BMF that clear coating it was needed to "seal it". Being after many years & experience I haven't cleared over the BMF for the past 5 years or so. (School of hard knocks) What do you think of masking then paint the molded in chrome details with Alclad Chrome? It would be a lot of work but wouldn't it appear more realistic then BMF? just a thought. Edited June 14, 2013 by Gramps2u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I had been told MANY years ago when I was first introduced to BMF that clear coating it was needed to "seal it". That's one of the most common misconceptions out there–tons of guys believe it. And lots of people clear over the foil because that's what they've been told to do, not because any of their uncleared foil ever fell off. The fact is, there's no need to "seal" BMF at all. I don't think it hurts anything to clear over the foil, but I can say from experience that it is not necessary. Of all the models I've used foil on over the years, none of them have clear over the foil and none of the foil on any of them has ever come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 What do you think of masking then paint the molded in chrome details with Alclad Chrome? It would be a lot of work but wouldn't it appear more realistic then BMF? just a thought. Many experienced people on this and other forums suggest putting a piece of BMF over the desired chrome details, such as scripts, badging, etc., followed by paint, then by wiping the paint off the BMF area as desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragfreak Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I received and email this morning so ill send him the old stuff and see if he can send me the regular chrome foil. ill have to experiment with regular foil as well. Hi Jason, If you could please cut the foil into strips so it will fit into a first class envelope and return it to us, I will replace the foil. We just need the foil back,no instruction sheet or envelopes. The ultra bright foil is more difficult to work with. The alloy of the metal is different than the chrome. As for the adhesive problem, we suggest to you to clean the model with plain detergent (I recommend Palmolive green) to remove any residue and dry it. Clean hands are also necessary to remove any oils from them. When you return the foil, let me know if you want the chrome. We usually replace with like material. Our mailing address is: Bare-Metal Foil Co PO Box 82 Farmington MI 48332 Thank you for contacting me about the problem. Regards, Randy P. Mason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albie D Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 It's nice that they got back to you, speaks volumes about them. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps2u Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Jason, Glad your issue has been taken care of !. Now that is top notch product support! Skip, I haven't ever known about that trick, I'll give that try someday. I have applied it after the paint has cured, Interesting concept. Harry, I haven't cleared my BMF for a long time now, But I can guarantee one thing... It wont get cleared ever again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragfreak Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Yes I agree they have excellent customer service, I will definitely let them know that im satisfied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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