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1969 Outlaw Camaro...updates (10/21/14)


tyrone

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Thanks alot fellas... I really appreciate it... As far as the color, this may wind up being a commision build.. someone is interested.. but If I did go with orange, would the white vinyl top look good on a race car ????

Orange with a white vinyl top would look great. Also make it a little different from the norm black vinyl tops..

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Tyrone if you do the Hugger orange with the white vinyl top you should use white hockey stripes on the sides....it would look great that way. I've only seen a handful of Camaros with white vinyl but they are around...Just Google some images and you'll see some. I owned a '69 just the opposite with black top and black stripes.

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Thanks alot fellas for all the kind words... I really appreciate it.... It keeps me motivated, and encouraged.. thanks....

Well it's been a rainy weekend here so I took advantage of some free time and got to the bench... I always mounted my doors a particular way, and it has always worked fine... I make my hinges from staples.. I take a piece of .062 rod and drill a hole down the center of it just big enough for my staple to fit inside and the rod be able to turn...I then trim the rod down do the size needed and I would mount it by gluing the rod to the inner door skin....I was looking at some photos online the other night of how they are mounted and they are mounted with the hinge attaching to the outer part of the door skin/shell.. so this is what I sought after with these doors.. I'm happy with the way they turned out.. way easier... here's a few pics and I'll try to explain as I go.......

as you can see on this pic there is a gap at the bottom of the firewall where it comes back at an angle.. the area where the gaps is, is right where I need to mount my lower door hinge/staple...

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to fix this I cut some pieces of .020 styrene sheet and first added them to the sides of firewall,,, they were cut at an angle so that the firewall would be straight up and down and not angled..

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Once this was done I then cut some more pieces of .020 styrene and added them to the top and also down at the bottom in front of the firewall to mount my hinges?staples...

here's a pic of one side with holes drilled and ready for the hinges...

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here's my tools I use for my hinges... Once I cut my staples to the size I need I insert them in the holes and apply some super glue to hold them in place..

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here's what they look like when done...

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next I got to work on my door skins, but first I stuck the doors on and secured them with a little tape. Next I marked the inside of the doors with a pencil up against the sides that I've added so I'll have that to go by when making the door skins... the inner door skin will have to be as close to flush as possible to the pieces I've added so that the rod will attach to it ...

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Edited by tyrone
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I take a small piece of .062 rod and drill a hole down the center of it just big enough to fit over the staple and turn... If the hole is too big the doors will sag when open.. I then trim them down to size and sit them on the hinges....

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next I add a little glue to the rod where the door will mount and install the doors, and tape them down until the glue sets... after that I take them off and add some more stronger glue.. to hold them in place permanently...

here's a pic with the body off and just the door attached to give you and idea...

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and that's really all there is to it... lol... the reason I stress the importance of the inner skin coming as close and snug up against them is because I kinda goofed on the first door and had to add some thin strips of styrene to shim it out so everything fit......

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I'm pretty happy with how they turned out... I'll be using this technique from now on because it allows the door to open all the way up, and they are easier to put on and take off... thanks for looking and comments welcome...

here's a few mock ups of them all finished...

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OK this is awesome. But I have a couple of questions.

I notice that the staples are angled; Not perfectly straight up and down. Any reason for that?

Also, how do you know how far the staples need stick out of the chassis?

I usually angle the top hinge back just a bit, on builds I do where the front end is not removable.... It makes it easier to take the doors off and pt them back on.... If the front end was removable they would be straight up like the bottom... as far as how far they need to stick out, that's trial and error test fit, trim, test fit again,, etc, etc... it's important that the holes you drill are just big enough for the staple to slide in with a little resistance.. that way they will stay in place while checking all this... It takes a little practice... but it's not that hard...

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Thanks for the comments fellas... and I hope the door hinge tutorial helps you guys out....

Well the chassis is all done and ready for paint... I got the trunk floor finished up, I added dzus brackets for my electronics board, I made a mount on steering column for racepak, and I finished up bracing for fuel cell mount... thanks for looking ad comments welcome....

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Thanks for the tutorial, Tyrone. That will help me and countless others, I'm sure... I see you've got a lip above the top of the door skin. I trust that's a surface mount for windows that you can then black-out... ? Maybe you've been doing that all along and I just finally caught it. LOL

Edited by futurattraction
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Thanks for the tutorial, Tyrone. That will help me and countless others, I'm sure... I see you've got a lip above the top of the door skin. I trust that's a surface mount for windows that you can then black-out... ? Maybe you've been doing that all along and I just finally caught it. LOL

Hey Scott... you're right... the lip is there so that I can mount the glass up against it when I get ready to install them.. I always do this on my builds that dont have resin bodies... I always cut my own glass from clear sheet.. (the kit glass is pretty thick) I'll also add some thin styrene around rear quarter glasses and also the front and back glass also.. good eye by you to catch that..LOL.. I forgot to mention that... ;)

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I've got another hinge question for you Tyrone. Is there a secret to the fore/aft placement of the hinges? I realize that we have to work with what we've got, or create it in your case with the additional strips attached to the firewall, but I'm just curious if there are dimensions you've come to use that are more "ideal."

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I've got another hinge question for you Tyrone. Is there a secret to the fore/aft placement of the hinges? I realize that we have to work with what we've got, or create it in your case with the additional strips attached to the firewall, but I'm just curious if there are dimensions you've come to use that are more "ideal."

Scott... I think your takling about the distance between the top and bottom hinges right???.. I usually base that off of the build and how the doors are made.. the 67-69 camaro doors are curved at the front of the doors/fender area.. and let's say for example a 66 chevy 2 door is straight and not curved... I have found that the doors that are straight and have no curve are a little easier to work with.. but you kinda have to get in there and do a few mock ups to see what will work best.. as far as the hinge placement.. I try to make sure that they are spaced out pretty good.. you dont want to have them too close together.. I looked at the hinges on my 1:1 camaro and kind of used it as a rough guide line...

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