Exhaust painting tips

[abedooley]

I was just wondering how many different ways everyone uses to paint their exhausts. If you could show pics of progress, paint, and procedures that would be awesome. I'm sick of the plain ol' silver or gray exhaust look. I really like the way the exhausts look on the drag cars and NASCARS. I also wanna know what kind of materials everyone uses for home made exhaust.... THANKS ALOT GUYS!!

ABE DOOLEY

[sdrodder]

I was just wondering how many different ways everyone uses to paint their exhausts. If you could show pics of progress, paint, and procedures that would be awesome. I'm sick of the plain ol' silver or gray exhaust look. I really like the way the exhausts look on the drag cars and NASCARS. I also wanna know what kind of materials everyone uses for home made exhaust.... THANKS ALOT GUYS!!

ABE DOOLEY

one way i paint my headers is with testors steel in a bottel. I brsuh it on so it has a little black and silver look. For headers or exhaust material is i either use craft wire or solder. I just finished some straight pipes for my 41 truck that just go striaght down. if u post your email i will send ya pis of it.

[Kodiak Island Modeler]

For the headers I use what Florian suggested. For the exhaust pipes, I use metal tubing. For molded on, that's not worth the work to remove, I use steel and aluminum brush paint as appropriate.

[Olle F]

If you just want to make the kit exhaust look better, you can experiment with different shades of metal colors. When I detail an exhaust system, I try to resemble the materials that were used, for example a steel color for the pipes, a dull silver for the galvanized mufflers and a brighter silver for the pipe clamps. Then I give it some wash to bring out the detail. Of course, you'll have to guess a bit on the colors if you don't have good references to go by, but just some variation in color will usually make it look much more realistic.

As an example of what it can look like, this is what I did on a Chrysler 300:

[abedooley]

one way i paint my headers is with testors steel in a bottel. I brsuh it on so it has a little black and silver look. For headers or exhaust material is i either use craft wire or solder. I just finished some straight pipes for my 41 truck that just go striaght down. if u post your email i will send ya pis of it.

What size solder would equal 3" pipes?? 1/8??? Does solder wire come in that size??? I would love to see the pics of those pipes... abedooley@sbcglobal.net

[abedooley]

Also, if u use 'rodder's suggestion of craft wire, u can get real authentic and run it through the flame of a lighter or blow torch (prior to attatching to the model) and have some real heat-stains.

NOW THAT IS A GREAT IDEA!! Post some pics of some of your pipes...

[abedooley]

If you just want to make the kit exhaust look better, you can experiment with different shades of metal colors. When I detail an exhaust system, I try to resemble the materials that were used, for example a steel color for the pipes, a dull silver for the galvanized mufflers and a brighter silver for the pipe clamps. Then I give it some wash to bring out the detail. Of course, you'll have to guess a bit on the colors if you don't have good references to go by, but just some variation in color will usually make it look much more realistic.

As an example of what it can look like, this is what I did on a Chrysler 300:

That looks awesome!!! I beleive I can mix all of these techniques.....

[mikelo]

For something quick, I grab a can of black primer, red oxide primer, gray primer, silver (I used to use dull alluminum, but have ran out) and dull and gloss coat. I usually start with a good coat of the gray primer and let it dry. If everything looks good, I give a second coat and while it is still wet (being wet is important) I give it a good coat of silver all over. While that is still wet, I then hit it with light mist coats of the black, red and silver alternating between them to get the desired look. When I am happy with it, I'll shoot it all with dull coat, then sometimes (depending on how old it is supposed to be) spray some gloss on the ends. I usually use more red & black up front where it is more rusty. Then after it is dry, I'll go back and add some black wash to some areas. I try not to use chrome too much, especially on headers. When I do, Like ledsled mentioned, I use some transparent colors to give them that blue look. It sounds more complicated than it is. The exhaust below took less than 2 minutes with the spray and maybe 5 minutes detailing with a brush after it was dry.

Edited June 24, 2008 by mikelo

[torinobradley]

I have used soldier, plastic tubing, aluminum tubing, aluminum tubing inside plastic tubing, copper wire, aluminum wire and any mixture of all media for exhaust. I made a real decent set of block hugging headers for my big block, tubbed El Camino SS out of aluminum house wire that came out real nice. This is the thick black cables that carry the main power to the house, stripped and unwound. They looked great worming through the frame and block. I do remember they were a bit difficult to bend at times but didn't crack or stress on tight corners. I have some bonsai soft aluminum wire that I'd like to try on my next set as it seems softer than the house wire. Plus, the bonsai wire is copper plated/colored.

As for colors, long ago, I started painting the cast manifolds and exhausts of used cars flat tan with a light ruddy brown primer overspray. Headers are steel for ceramicoat or white with rust and black speckles and a gray/black wash. These are what work for me.

Edited June 24, 2008 by torinobradley

[MrObsessive]

Abe, for out of the box builds I'll break out the various shades of Alclad I have and airbrush the exhausts. Here's the underside of a 'Vette I did recently...............

For more detailed builds like my '55 Ford, I bent aluminum rod along with bent thick solder to get the type of exhaust I need............

HTH!

Edited June 24, 2008 by MrObsessive

[sdrodder]

What size solder would equal 3" pipes?? 1/8??? Does solder wire come in that size??? I would love to see the pics of those pipes... abedooley@sbcglobal.net

Abe i will send you those pics today. I do think solder comes in 1/8 size. The best thing you could do is go to ur local craft store for craft wire sizes and for solder go to your local home inprovement store for that. The nice part about solder is that it is very flexible so u can just bend it with ur hand unlike the craft wire. The pipes i made for my truck were made from craft wire and i took pliers to bend them. Hope this helps and i will send you pics today.

[abedooley]

YOU GUYS ROCK!!!! I believe I'll be trying the solder wire trick.. just need to go get some now.. I was looking at some tubing today at hobby lobby, but I wan't sure what size I needed for 3" pipes. When its broke down into hundredths I cant convert that to inches in my head. 1/8= 1.25, right??? What about the colors of the pipes you see on the NASCARS pipes?? Is that Jet Exhaust???

[sdrodder]

hey abe check your mail in about 5 mins. Pics are coming.

[Olle F]

I was looking at some tubing today at hobby lobby, but I wan't sure what size I needed for 3" pipes. When its broke down into hundredths I cant convert that to inches in my head. 1/8= 1.25, right???

I usually cheat and use the calculator in my cell phone... You also need to keep in mind that 1 mm equals 1 scale inch (for 1:25 scale). Many hobby materials will have the metric and standard dimension on the package, so if you're looking for a 2 1/2" exhaust pipe, you simply pick 2.5 mm (or 2.6, 2.4 or whatever closest dimension you can find) tubing. All Evergreen products are marked with the metric dimension, which makes it very easy to pick the right material.

[Semi Trailer Mechanic]

I usually cheat and use the calculator in my cell phone... You also need to keep in mind that 1 mm equals 1 scale inch (for 1:25 scale). Many hobby materials will have the metric and standard dimension on the package, so if you're looking for a 2 1/2" exhaust pipe, you simply pick 2.5 mm (or 2.6, 2.4 or whatever closest dimension you can find) tubing. All Evergreen products are marked with the metric dimension, which makes it very easy to pick the right material.

What's goin' on...

I concure w/ Olle F! The 1mm for 1 inch (25th) is the easiest way to get scaled measurements. As far as detailing the exhaust. Aluminum Metallizer,flat clear and chaulk (weathering purposes)is how I've always detailed exhaust. However,there are some ###### good ideas in this thread so far!

Good Luck!!!

[musclewrx]

what do you guys use for the exhaust tips?

[crazyjim]

My usual technique is to brush Testors steel on the pipes and exhaust manifolds/headers. I've used solder for headers on occasion. Aluminum tubing for exhaust tips. Aluminum and Evergreen tubing in several sizes for mufflers. Recently I've been made aware of some K&S aluminum tubing that comes shaped like an airplane wing. I've hammered it down to try and get an oval shape and then glued Evergreen flat stock to either end, sanded to shape and painted with either Testors steel or aluminum.

[brodie_83]

I always use Testors Metalizer "Aluminum Plate". It's a buffing paint, so you spray it on and it comes out dull like aluminum, but take a piece of toilet paper or facial tissue and rub the paint after it dries, it gives a "polished aluminum" look. I use this all the time on exhaust. I leave the dull look on the piping and polish on the mufflers to make them look like Magnaflow stainless steel polished mufflers. Works awesome! Unfortunately I don't have any pictures, but if you try it, you won't be disappointed. They have all sorts of different colors. http://www.testors.com/category/145623/Metalizer_Enamel_Paint

[Foxer]

I like all the ideas here, but I'm going to have to look into some stainless steel exhausts for my next build ...

[MikeMc]

I like all the ideas here, but I'm going to have to look into some stainless steel exhausts for my next build ...

just take the correct size of alum tube, polish with 2000 or finer grit

I use the metalizers..burnt exhaust and burnt iron, over non buffing alun.

[Romell R]

I made these from Brass and I first paint them using Alclad polished aluminum , then for the bluing I used Tamiya clear blue, and Alclad burnt iron feathered onto the edges of the clear blue.

[Draggon]

This is metalizer stainless steel, shaded with Tamiya Dark Bronze. I really like the metalizer paints for exhaust and engine details.

[Steve Keck]

Various Alclads and Metalizers accented by dry brushing.

[DirtModeler]

I did Metalizer Burnt Exaust over aluminum.. though i don't remember if it was Alclad or Metallizer Aluminum.

I just used something sharp to 'scratch' the weld joints, for an acceptable look without too much difficulty.

My pipes are a 'bit different then most make them though. I use soldered brass rod rather then plastic or lead solder as the basis. I anneal the brass with a propane torch beforehand to make it easier to bend.

I don't do the cool blue petina on the pipes.. because dirt car headers are usually caked with mud and dust, and look old and rusty, rather then the nice bluish pipes on the pavement cars.

Edited September 4, 2011 by DirtModeler

[crazyjim]

Nice looking headers.